RV fridge fan mod that every one needs

**DrBrownie** · 10-09-2019, 06:48 PM

Originally Posted by DrBrownie

Pretty easy installation. I threaded the wire though the drain tube to about 3" from the bottom where I made a slit to bring it out. Can mounted easily with self adhesives velcro. Use supplied piggy back conector and ring connector for ground. Connected hot wire with piggy back connector to bottom left 12 volt connector on site block. Grounded below that. Taped over slit in drain tube. Didn't come on at first but that due to the fuse bring lose on the fro t of can unit.Attachment 22984

Just went out and checked temperature after running 24 hours and set on 4 the fridge is 32 and the freezer 9. Outside temp is 70. Showing good signs of colder beer!

**andrewssteve** · 10-11-2019, 05:20 PM

Originally Posted by DrBrownie

Showing good signs of colder beer!

So I was installing my not-yet-ordered unit in my dreams last night, and it occurred to me that the 12 V service should be fused. I'm guessing that the line you tapped into is fused, but is that wire sized for the addition of the new fan load? In other words, should there be a dedicated fan-line run to a dedicated, fused circuit on the main distribution panel?

I'm not an electrician, but I'm trying to learn -- about how to prevent a fire that could end my dreaming about more RV mods. . .

**DrBrownie** · 10-11-2019, 07:45 PM

I read they pull .17 amps each fan. There is a fuse on board on the fan housing. I can’t Imagine that less than a 1 amp additional pull would cause any issues. It hasn’t for me so far.

**Stephen/Kerri** · 05-03-2020, 12:00 PM

I'm having same issues you're having. I"m looking for the switch on the top left upper corner of the condenser fins. However there is a piece of thin plywood covering about 3/4 of the upper top opening. Is that plywood normal? I can't seem to find the switch. I have some pics. Wondering if you could call if not terribly inconvenient
. 417-894-9559.

**Mjlebsa** · 05-03-2020, 01:04 PM

Originally Posted by Dentil

I did the same modification on my 2019 337 with the Dometic 1350 Refrigerator. What a game changer to circulate the air. My refrigerator is reading between 33 and 34 degrees consistenly now. Before it was in the low 40 to 50 degrees. I also us 4 Yeti type refreezable ice packs that I rotate from freezer to refrigerator. I must agree that it is an almost necessary ugprade.

Could you please tell me how you hooked up yours? Did you go down the condensation tube or the light in the refrigerator? I have the same refrigerator and I tried to hook mine up to the light and it worked for about 30 seconds. Now my light does not work and the fan does not work. I’ve checked all the fuses and nothing has blown. I’m at a loss.

Thanks

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**Tom&Trish** · 05-03-2020, 02:35 PM

Yes I called the factory service after reading all the refrigerator post on the forum. Then called an RV refrigeration shop. They both said to remove the thin panel behind the upper door. We did and fridge work great now! Pulls down to temp in about 4 to 5 hours in 95degree ambient temperature! Went one step farther at the advise of RV refrigerator guy. He suggested that air was blocked with the panel installed but not the fans would have hot air going around them and not thru them. Here is what I did using some thin copper roofing sheet from Home Depot. Woops picture is on my other phone will send it later. We

**Dentil** · 05-03-2020, 09:37 PM

Originally Posted by Mjlebsa

Could you please tell me how you hooked up yours? Did you go down the condensation tube or the light in the refrigerator? I have the same refrigerator and I tried to hook mine up to the light and it worked for about 30 seconds. Now my light does not work and the fan does not work. I’ve checked all the fuses and nothing has blown. I’m at a loss.

Thanks

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did hook mine up through the drain tube. I poked a hole in the tube to exit the drain and then sealed the area with silicone. These two photos show where I connected. From the sounds of it, you blew a fuse somewhere. Hope this helps.
Dennis

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**Stephen/Kerri** · 05-04-2020, 04:22 AM

Originally Posted by Stephen/Kerri

I'm having same issues you're having. I"m looking for the switch on the top left upper corner of the condenser fins. However there is a piece of thin plywood covering about 3/4 of the upper top opening. Is that plywood normal? I can't seem to find the switch. I have some pics. Wondering if you could call if not terribly inconvenient
. 417-894-9559.

Well I made a discovery after I posted the above. I was doing the dollar bill test on all the seals & when I got to the bottom left door, I found that the seal was good over to the far left side of the door, closest to the hinge. When I moved over to the right side of the bottom left door, there was no resistance at all. I then discovered that i could see light between the gasket & door frame. After a little more poking around, I finally realized there's a latch hook that the left door was never meeting & hooking into. To be honest, it takes some muscle to push the door in to catch the latch, but seriously is it really as simple as this? Anybody else have this issue? I turned the fridge on again, showing 60+ & let her rip. Ambient temp was 70+. In 2 hours the fridge was down to 45+. I got up early this morning & at 4am it's showing +33. I was thrilled.
I plan on calling GD and/or Dometic to inquire about the piece of plywood i mentioned above. Just looking at it, it appears to be it would hold a lot of heat & not allow heat to escape easily. I'll post my results after my conversation with GD/Dometic.