What a mess !!!!

[Ynot4me2]

Too bad it doesn't work

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[SolarPoweredRV]

I would agree with this. If you're handy, you can replace just the shoes and the hardware, no need to replace the entire brake assembly. Remove the shoes (only one set) and take them to a trailer shop. They should be able to match them up with a new set. I said to remove only one set. That way you have other brake assembly's to use as an example to assemble the new set.

John

Unfortunately, the price to replace the entire brake assembly is less than replacing the entire assembly. Additionally, the magnet might have also been compromised by the grease, so, that will need to be replaced as well.

Also, it is easier and quicker to simply remove the old assembly and replace it with the new assembly.

I figured this out after I had replaced the brakes om my previous Travel Trailer.

[LV Naturist]

Unfortunately, the price to replace the entire brake assembly is less than replacing the entire assembly. Additionally, the magnet might have also been compromised by the grease, so, that will need to be replaced as well.

Also, it is easier and quicker to simply remove the old assembly and replace it with the new assembly.

I figured this out after I had replaced the brakes om my previous Travel Trailer.

Interesting... I guess it would depend on where one sources their parts. On my old Springdale, the best price I could find for the assemble (14" X 2" brakes) was give or take $75 per wheel. I bought the shoes and hardware for about $25 per wheel. This was on a trailer I was getting ready to sell so I was looking to spend the least I could. The magnets were serviceable, but they're cheap. Besides, the magnets are pretty resilient and can be cleaned if it's just greased. As an old school mechanic working for over 40 years in fleet repairs, I'm so used to tearing things apart and repairing vs replacing assemblies, old habits die hard. YMMV.

John

Just for giggles, I'm the type of guy who would rebuild a starter motor, replacing bearings and brushes and checking the armature on a "growler" sooner than replacing the starter assembly if I can...

[Tim2542]

As an old school mechanic, there is nothing more important than preventive maintenance. When it's time to grease the bearings, it's time to clean all the old grease out of them and inspect them for signs of problems. If all is good, repack (by hand) and reassemble using a new seal. It also gives you an opportunity to inspect the brakes for signs of dragging, non-use, or other issues and address them right then. It's far better to find a potential issue during inspection than to have that issue become catastrophic while on the side of the road somewhere.

John

The above quotes, 2,3,4, hit it on the head. The EZ lube system is a gimmick and the only proper way to do it is disassemble, clean, inspect, repack, about every 10-20K miles . Anything else is a shortcut to a greasy mess.
I would suggest you buy an inexpensive bearing packer on Amazon or similar. Makes the repack a little cleaner, and you can watch it push out all the old grease you missed.

[bryancass]

I am about to tackle this little project on my new (to me) 2150RB. I am going to assume grease leakage as well and plan to replace the pads and the inner seals. LV Naturist, I am cut from the same cloth -- I take things apart every time before deciding to replace. Actually, that's fun for me. :-)

So where did you source your pads, seals and other hardware? I'd like to look into buying some of it up front so I don't have to have the trailer up on stands for too long. What kind of grease did you use? I usually pack bearings by the old scrape-grease-off-your-palm method, but maybe I'll spring for a grease packing tool.

By the way, I also plan on rewiring the curb-side brakes with 14ga. wire from the fusebox, to replace the 16ga. they run through the axle from street to curb side.

Thanks!

[chemist308]

@bfs673 how was your braking performance? Was the trailer a lot harder to stop?

[LV Naturist]

I am about to tackle this little project on my new (to me) 2150RB. I am going to assume grease leakage as well and plan to replace the pads and the inner seals. LV Naturist, I am cut from the same cloth -- I take things apart every time before deciding to replace. Actually, that's fun for me. :-)

So where did you source your pads, seals and other hardware? I'd like to look into buying some of it up front so I don't have to have the trailer up on stands for too long. What kind of grease did you use? I usually pack bearings by the old scrape-grease-off-your-palm method, but maybe I'll spring for a grease packing tool.

By the way, I also plan on rewiring the curb-side brakes with 14ga. wire from the fusebox, to replace the 16ga. they run through the axle from street to curb side.

Thanks!

This company is not far from my house, and they were recommended by one of our parts warehouse clerks here in the school district. They may be a bit far from you though... I'm not sure if they do online sales, but I guess you could inquire. Or google "Trailer Brake Parts" or "Brake Bonding" in your area and see what pops up.

http://www.customfriction.com/

John

[bryancass]

I found this on the web with the brake parts for my trailer. I'm wondering if they have everything I'll need at a decent price.

https://www.etrailer.com/rvbrake-201...m?style=2150RB

Here's a good step by step on how to pack wheel bearings:

https://www.etrailer.com/faq-wheelbearingpack.aspx

[bfs673]

@bfs673 how was your braking performance? Was the trailer a lot harder to stop?

The brakes weren't great... At all.
The truck did great stopping everything.

The trailer brakes are much better now. I haven't yet replaced the pads, but will do that next year when repacking the bearings. The magnet is no issue, cleaned up nicely and is not a porous metal.

I did pick up a bearing packer, though I feel like I waste a lot more grease than by hand packing. Jury is still out on that one.

[huntindog]

Unless you were just kidding in your original post, why would anyone think that putting a 100 pumps from a grease gun is a good idea? I could see putting maybe 4 or 5 pumps of grease in each wheel bearing area.......but 100 or more!!!

I've greased 1000 hp electric motor bearings that are the size of a basketball (diameter) and only put maybe 15 to 20 pumps of grease in them before they started flowing out of the bottom of the housing where the relief/flushing hole was at.

You have to understand
Just because grease is exiting doesn’t mean the dirty grease is expelled
The grease from the inner bearings has a long trip to make
It will take close to an entire tube per wheel to have any hope of getting most of the old dirty grease out

The Dexter video that makes it look so easy....... Well it only shows the dirty grease from the outer bearing exiting
The dirty grease from the inner bearing is still in there!