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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silverado333 View Post
    I also have the adapters, did not get shut off valves - but wondering if it would be wise to add them now, if they're recommended.
    Thanks!
    Steve
    If you open the low point drains with the old faucet open, most of the water in the lines will drain out. Also there is a tool that can tighten the backing nuts on the new faucets when i installed. It fits over the pipe on to the nut and you just twist. It not expensive and available at most hardware stores. Be sure to use plumbers putty under the new faucet when installed too.
    Hope this helps.
    2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th wheel with 6K axle upgrade. B&W 25K OEM Companion, Steadyfast system, 2022 F350 SRW 6.7 King Ranch 8' bed, Trailer reverse lights, rear spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, and Solar

  2. #12
    Seasoned Camper
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    I purchased the PEX tool kit and 100' of 1/2" blue & red PEX hose for my RV tool kit some time ago - just in case. I'll have to check out the shark bite system - Thanks TXkmpr!!
    Steve & Pat
    2019 Ram 3500 Limited MegaCab
    2020 Grand Design Imagine 2670MK


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  3. #13
    Seasoned Camper
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silverado333 View Post
    Hello to all...

    Planning to remove and replace a new sink faucet tomorrow. I have a new On The Go Water softener and a Clear Source water filter as well to install. This is all part of a issue of very low water flow with the kitchen faucet. I've posted in an earlier postal did some troubleshooting and unable to find any obvious issues, kinked lines, leaks etc. so replacing the faucet and adding the filter & water softener. Had planned to do both so will do all at the same time.

    My question is, other than shutting off the main RV park water supply, is there any other shutoff, draining I need to do before I start opening water lines for the swap out?

    We have a 2019 GD Imagine 2670 MK.

    Thanks for any advice, suggestions!!!

    Steve
    One of the things I would do before you go to work replacing the faucet is, once you disconnect the water line from the faucet if you can put it in some sort of water bottle or pitcher and have someone turn on the water from outside. If you still have low flow replacing the faucet will not do anything.

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silverado333 View Post
    Hello to all...

    Planning to remove and replace a new sink faucet tomorrow. I have a new On The Go Water softener and a Clear Source water filter as well to install. This is all part of a issue of very low water flow with the kitchen faucet. I've posted in an earlier postal did some troubleshooting and unable to find any obvious issues, kinked lines, leaks etc. so replacing the faucet and adding the filter & water softener. Had planned to do both so will do all at the same time.

    My question is, other than shutting off the main RV park water supply, is there any other shutoff, draining I need to do before I start opening water lines for the swap out?

    We have a 2019 GD Imagine 2670 MK.

    Thanks for any advice, suggestions!!!

    Steve
    Steve has a good suggestion. Also check and remove any flow restrictions on the new faucet. They can be at the connections and/or the spray head.

    Please post back how it comes out.
    2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th wheel with 6K axle upgrade. B&W 25K OEM Companion, Steadyfast system, 2022 F350 SRW 6.7 King Ranch 8' bed, Trailer reverse lights, rear spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, and Solar

  5. #15
    Site Sponsor Richter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TXkmpr View Post
    I used Sharkbite shutoff valves as the transistion to a new residential kitchen faucet. Agree that you don't really need a shutoff valve but it was easy to install the Sharkbite cutoff valves so I just used them. They have held up without any leaks for 3 years. With the Sharkbite all I did was cut the existing supply pex and push on the Sharkbite and then screw on the supply lines to the faucet.

    I have since bought a pex crimping tool and that is easy to use also if you just go with standard pex fittings for the transistion.
    I’m new to this pex thing. I’ve done quite a bit of basic residential plumbing, both supply and waste, but mostly with copper and PVC or ASB.

    I’ve seen Sharkbite displays at the big box store, but never really looked at them. Are there two ways to hook up pex, one using a Sharkbite type coupler and one using the crimping tool? As I recall, the crimping tool was fairly expensive, so I didn’t really look at it at the store. At that time, we didn’t have anything with pex involved, so the curiosity angle wasn’t really a draw.

    Now that we have pex in the 303, I think that it might be time to become more familiar with it. I won’t be at the big box store for a while, so thought that I’d raise the questions here.

    Thanks, in advance.
    Tom and Janice (known as Tom in PGH on the “other” forum)

    First came the 18' Comfort bumper-pull, was great for 20 years.
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  6. #16
    Big Traveler dryfly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silverado333 View Post
    I also have the adapters, did not get shut off valves - but wondering if it would be wise to add them now, if they're recommended.
    Thanks!
    Steve
    I have never seen a residential fixture supplied with shut off valves. I've always purchased them as a separate item.

    Installing them on a RV faucet to me would be optional. Personally the only reason I could see is if you had a leak at the faucet, you could turn off the faucet shut off valve, and still leave trailer water supply on until repair is made. Of course in a house, the shut off valve is used as first line defense, since it is usually farther away to the whole house supply valve. In a RV you just step outside and turn the water off at the pedestal.

    I just replaced my bathroom faucet and there were no adapters needed between PEX and new fixture. About a 30 min job (and I'm slooooww).
    2020 Reflection 273MK

  7. #17
    Long Hauler huntindog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dryfly View Post
    I have never seen a residential fixture supplied with shut off valves. I've always purchased them as a separate item.

    Installing them on a RV faucet to me would be optional. Personally the only reason I could see is if you had a leak at the faucet, you could turn off the faucet shut off valve, and still leave trailer water supply on until repair is made. Of course in a house, the shut off valve is used as first line defense, since it is usually farther away to the whole house supply valve. In a RV you just step outside and turn the water off at the pedestal.

    I just replaced my bathroom faucet and there were no adapters needed between PEX and new fixture. About a 30 min job (and I'm slooooww).
    Yes it is wise to install shutoff valves.
    The alternative is shutting down the entire coach because one fixture has a problem... Same as your house.

    Why would anyone think that shutting off the entire water supply until repairs can be made..... Is acceptable.
    2021 398M Full Body Paint 8k axles. LRH tires. Disc brakes.
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  8. #18
    Seasoned Camper chemist308's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silverado333 View Post
    Hello Chemist! Yes, I did purchase a Delta residential faucet at HD, has the large long neck spout and a sprayer inside the spout. You mentioned shut off valves, is this a recommendation to add?? I'm pretty certain there are none in the box, and Ive never seen a faucet that included them. So I assume your suggesting to add them?? If so, suggestions for type or style?

    DW is very excited for the upgrade!!! By turning off the water heater, do you mean the switch the control panel, or something actually inside the water heater panel. Not too familiar with that part.
    @Silverado333 I mean one like this: PEX Valve at Lowes

    You could also use this, if you lack the PEX tools: Sharkbite fitting Valve at Lowes If plumbing is not something you're good with, these type of fittings are dirt simple to work with. Just shove 'em on as far as they go.

    Since I have the PEX tools and crimp rings, I use the first kind. Just take the nut off the end, set the brass compression piece aside and screw the fittings from the sink on.

    And as for turning off the water heater, yes, I meant in the convenience center. Probably not necessary, but when I work on a hot water line, I don't want to heat the water when the pressure is off.

    @Richter, I use the valves because that's standard in residential settings. I'm full time in mine, so there is a chance I may need to work on the faucet or replace it again in a few years. Much easier to just turn the valve off under the sink. I put them on, shut the valves, turn the water back on, and resume work. Then I never have to hear: "Can you tell me when I can wash my hands, flush the toilet, etc?"
    2018 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS
    2020 Ram 3500 SRW
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  9. #19
    Left The Driveway
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    Hi Tom,
    I was introduced to PEX when the hot water line to the kitchen sink of my Imagine 2600RB popped off the L fitting under the floor. There are two basic types of crimp fittings, both require specific tools to crimp. One I would call a ring crimp and the tool looks like a set of bolt cutters(and about as long). The one I bought is the same type Grand Design uses and I would call it a pinch clamp. The tool for that model an Apollo and is a one hand ratcheting style and was my only option to access the pex pipe and fitting behind the coroplast. It is also a lot cheaper than the ring crimp tool. I got it and the pinch rings from Home Depot.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jcheney55 View Post
    Hi Tom,
    I was introduced to PEX when the hot water line to the kitchen sink of my Imagine 2600RB popped off the L fitting under the floor. There are two basic types of crimp fittings, both require specific tools to crimp. One I would call a ring crimp and the tool looks like a set of bolt cutters(and about as long). The one I bought is the same type Grand Design uses and I would call it a pinch clamp. The tool for that model an Apollo and is a one hand ratcheting style and was my only option to access the pex pipe and fitting behind the coroplast. It is also a lot cheaper than the ring crimp tool. I got it and the pinch rings from Home Depot.
    Is it one of these? https://apolloflow.org/apollo-pex-tools/
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h1UAG6xkHhg
    2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th wheel with 6K axle upgrade. B&W 25K OEM Companion, Steadyfast system, 2022 F350 SRW 6.7 King Ranch 8' bed, Trailer reverse lights, rear spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, and Solar

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