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  1. #1
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    One Wheel Heating up!

    Hello All-

    Just departed (literally this morning) for a year on the road and ran into this issue only a hundred kilometres or so into Day 1, so had to pull into an unplanned RV park stop for the night to try and address. A bit stumped by the issue so hoping some of you with more bearing & brake experience can help!

    Background - had my local heavy duty trailer shop replace my original stock axles with new 8k Dexter Axles just a couple months ago. Included new larger electric drum brakes (12 1/4 x 3 3/8) and I went with oil bath hubs. Only use prior to today was a short 30-minute drive from the shop where I had the work done back to the RV Park we were wintering at. Hadn't driven on them again until today.

    Today as we hit the highway the rear tire on the passenger side started increasing in pressure and temperature and ended up giving me a high pressure alarm on my TPMS system. This was mostly flat/rolling hills with minimal to no braking. Once up to temp, 3 of the 4 tires were running about 105psi (started at 95 cold) and temps about 75F on my TPMS system. Wheel #4 (passenger rear) was up around 115psi and 95F, so after the alarm went off I pulled into the next safe spot and investigated. Was hot for sure, with some brake dust on the wheel and had a definite brake smell to it. Hot enough to start melting the plastic plugs that cover the brake adjustment port on the back plate.

    Since these are new and are not self-adjusting brakes, I jacked up that wheel to check the adjustment. Seemed to spin pretty well with minimal drag, but I loosened it off even more just in case that was the issue. Can just barely hear a slight scuffing of something inside the brake assembly - I assume it is the shoes contacting the drum ever so slightly? Dropped the wheel back down and got back on the road.

    Short time later it was hot again - TPMS alarm went off so pulled over and same issue - hot, brake smell. Jacked up the wheel again, backed off the brake adjustment a few more clicks and also gave the wheel a push/pull to check the bearings. Definitely some movement - just enough to be able to make a "clunk" sound as I pulled/pushed it back and forth. Since these are new to me, I wanted to compare it - so I jacked up the front passenger wheel and it has zero play in it. So I suspect the bearings in this wheel have something to do with this issue. Oil level in the troublesome wheel hub is good - no leaks that I can see.

    Could the bearing play be contributing to the brakes rubbing somehow? This is my first experience with bearing and brake issues, and have always had a shop/tech address the service on this stuff. That said, I would like to figure this out ASAP and am happy to give it a shot myself. I have a full spare set of bearings and seals with me, as well as hub oil, but do not have any parts for the brakes.

    Hope you guys can help - thanks!
    2020 Ford F-350 XLT DRW Long Box w/ 6.7 Diesel & 3.55 Gear Ratio
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  2. #2
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    One Wheel Heating up!

    Typically wheel movement like that means bad bearings. Seems like the temp and pressure increase confirms it, especially since you manually backed off the brake adjustment. Since they are oil bath, is there a way to check/replenish the fluid or are they sealed?
    Last edited by Redapple63; 05-01-2022 at 11:01 PM.
    2019 GMC 3500 SRW Sierra Denali Duramax
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  3. #3
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    @Redapple63 - thanks for the note! I appreciate your insight on the bearings. I can easily remove the oil cap and drain the hubs if needed. Do you think that would help me diagnose the issue? If the bearings are problematic, would the hub oil start to go black, even after this relatively short distance?

    Also wondering if the movement in the bearings can cause brakes to rub? Wondering if the wheel spins fine/doesn't rub the brakes when jacked up, but maybe is deflecting under the trailer weight and causing the drum to rub on the brake linings once loaded?

    Appreciate your insight here.
    2020 Ford F-350 XLT DRW Long Box w/ 6.7 Diesel & 3.55 Gear Ratio
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  4. #4
    Site Team Redapple63's Avatar
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    One Wheel Heating up!

    Quote Originally Posted by jm_bc_ View Post
    @Redapple63 - thanks for the note! I appreciate your insight on the bearings. I can easily remove the oil cap and drain the hubs if needed. Do you think that would help me diagnose the issue? If the bearings are problematic, would the hub oil start to go black, even after this relatively short distance?

    Also wondering if the movement in the bearings can cause brakes to rub? Wondering if the wheel spins fine/doesn't rub the brakes when jacked up, but maybe is deflecting under the trailer weight and causing the drum to rub on the brake linings once loaded?

    Appreciate your insight here.
    I would suggest just checking the oil level. I know on greased bearings the are preloaded, are yours possibly not preloaded correctly. Couple of things to check.

    I don’t think the excess movements is causing the brakes to rub, but it will cause heat, which is exactly what you are experiencing.
    2019 GMC 3500 SRW Sierra Denali Duramax
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  5. #5
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    @Redapple63 - Thanks. My oil bath bearings have a clear cover cap with fill line so I can easily see the oil level and colour. Both are (visually) fine in this case.

    I agree the bearings would cause the heat issue, but it's the brake smell and dust on the wheel that has me baffled.
    2020 Ford F-350 XLT DRW Long Box w/ 6.7 Diesel & 3.55 Gear Ratio
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  6. #6
    Site Team Redapple63's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jm_bc_ View Post
    @Redapple63 - Thanks. My oil bath bearings have a clear cover cap with fill line so I can easily see the oil level and colour. Both are (visually) fine in this case.

    I agree the bearings would cause the heat issue, but it's the brake smell and dust on the wheel that has me baffled.
    Check your emergency brake switch. Ensure it it not pulled. Verify that the brakes are fully returning. Maybe a sticky brake shoe?
    2019 GMC 3500 SRW Sierra Denali Duramax
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  7. #7
    Rolling Along
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    My first thought is to jack her up, spin the wheel, pull the emergency brake switch, verify brake engages, put the pin back in the switch, verify brake disengaged, pull the hub off, have a look at the brakes, I suspect something is not quite right in there. If all looks good, have a look at the outer bearing cuz it’s easy, reseat the hub/bearings. After your investment in new axles this must be a bit frustrating. Hang in there.


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  8. #8
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    It could be something as easy as tightening the castle nut, yours sounds loose. Tighten it to 50 foot lbs then back it off and re-tighten with your fingers until you can replace the cotter pin. This alone may solve your problems since you don't have many miles on the bearing. Or you can disassemble and visually check the bearings.

    I use a infrared gun, shooting between the lug nuts to check temp every time we stop just for this reason.

    Red
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  9. #9
    Site Sponsor JCR GD's Avatar
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    Agree with above, get eyes on the brakes.
    Jim (& Sharon)
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  10. #10
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    Hello All-

    Appreciate all of the suggestions and feedback! Photos attached below for reference - I have lots more but am only allowed 5 images per post.

    This morning I went out to start tearing things apart and found hub oil all over the wheel & tire - the front oil cap was dry so figured it must be the rear seal that has gone & started leaking overnight. Hub oil was dark drey, so something bad had been happening in there. Drained the hub, castle nut seemed looser than I would have expected (was free to spin 1/4 to 1/2 turn before starting to snug up). Pulled outer bearing but could not for the life of me getting the hum/drum off - it was thoroughly stuck. Ended up putting the wheel back on the hub and gave it a good couple kicks from the backside and it popped off.

    Bad damage to the rear brake lining as shown - the heat had caused it to start cracking and flaking off. Flipped over the hub and found that the rear seal was askew and not flush with the backside of the hub as it should be. Not sure if this was caused by me forcefully removing the hub (kicking it) or if this was part of the actual problem that caused this issue. Smacked out the inner seal and bearing. Hub/Drum look fine - no damage. Spindle looks fine. Thankfully the shop that actually made these axles was only an hours drive from where we ended up stopped for the night, and my local trailer shop that did the install helped coordinate with the axle shop here to supply me with replacement parts at no cost since I only had a couple hundred kilometres on them.

    So I have a brand new brake assembly, new inner & outer bearings, and a new inner seal. Will hopefully get everything back together in the morning without too much trouble and then take it for a test run.

    Long story short, nobody I've spoken with can give me a definitive answer as to what happened. My best guess is the bearings weren't properly seated (loose castle nut) and allowed the wheel/hub to deflect just enough once loaded to rub on the top part of the brake linings (where the heat damage/flaking was), and the heat did the rest of the damage. Open to other thoughts though!

    Appreciate all of you!

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    2020 Ford F-350 XLT DRW Long Box w/ 6.7 Diesel & 3.55 Gear Ratio
    B&W Turnoverball Goose Ball Hitch
    2021 Reflection 367BHS w/ Reese Goose Box 20k

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