Help with wheel bearing

[Calbar]

I had a tech overtighten the castle nut on my previous trailer. Noticed it when I re-did the bearings a few months later. (Paranoid but then been caught twice with techs and blown bearings on my old trailer). The outer bearing also showed signs of a bit of heat. Decided to repack and put it all back together. Home from the next trip and noticed that had weird tire wear on the same tire. Thought I had a broken belt but tire shop said tire was fine maybe suspension wear or something loose.

Lifted the trailer and wheel was loose and wobbly. Took it all apart and same outer bearing was all gritty and needed to be replaced as it was starting to break down. When I cleaned it some of the rollers fell out.

I wouldn't reuse it if it shows some heat discolouration just from my past experience. Been stuck at the side of the road twice now with bearing issues. Not a fun place to be. Same reason I do my own bearings now too.

Rob

[gbkims]

Replacing the races is a pain when I knocked them out.
Next time round I'll try the weld a bead on inner surface of the race idea.
Saw that in one of the threads here, but forgot where.

Bearing race removal https://app.aws.org/forum/topic_show.pl?tid=9540
How to use a welder to remove a bearing race https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GhKVaWJnRHQ - Stay Hydrated 7:45

Was looking at Timken site, found some interesting tools
https://cad.timken.com/advanced/tape...ingle-imperi-2
Bearing Search: LM67048
Cone Part Number: LM67048 >Advanced Search
Timken Part Number LM67048 - LM67010, Tapered Roller Bearings - TS (Tapered Single) Imperial

Home > Products & Services > Bearings > Product List > All Product Types > Tapered Roller Bearings > Tapered Roller Bearings - TS (Tapered Single) > Tapered Roller Bearings - TS (Tapered Single) Imperial > Timken Part Number LM67048 - LM67010
https://cad.timken.com/item/tapered-...m67048-lm67010
http://www.timken.com/engineering-to...ng-tolerances/
http://www2.timken.com/timken_ols3/b...ypeRef=BrgSrch
http://www2.timken.com/timken_ols3/b...wnPartSrch.asp

And from Bobbystuff
For those that need to know, below are the bearing numbers for various axles. With the drum brake hubs my outer bearing was a LM67048. The new disc brake hubs have a 15123 bearing. They both fit my spindle which I have discovered is an industry standard #42 spindle. The bearing races (or cups) in the hubs are just different. Notice that the same inner bearing, 25580, is used on three different axles.

[Cate&Rob]

Great reference links Gene @gbkims . . . as usual .

Thanks
Rob

[ksbowman]

Whenever I remove a race I always run a bead on the inside and they almost fall out when the weld cools. Easy

[Nick1234]

Whenever I remove a race I always run a bead on the inside and they almost fall out when the weld cools. Easy

Wish I had a welding machine. I'll just punch it out.

[gbkims]

Wish I had a welding machine. I'll just punch it out.

Didn't have a welder when I did mine, didn't even know about the weld technique.
Did watch a couple of videos - Replacing Trailer bearings and races https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omLuXqwoRrA

Side note: I see Vallejo in your info. Took a couple of Navy schools at Mare Island in the mid 70s.

[Nick1234]

Didn't have a welder when I did mine, didn't even know about the weld technique.
Did watch a couple of videos - Replacing Trailer bearings and races https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omLuXqwoRrA

Side note: I see Vallejo in your info. Took a couple of Navy schools at Mare Island in the mid 70s.

This will be my first time replacing a bearing race. I've looked at many videos. I always figure if something can go wrong, I'll find it. LOL. Its a shame I need to do this because my trailer is about 6 months old. I have just under 4000 miles on it. The bearing was questionable, so I'll replace that. The race looks as good as new. But, the consensus on this board is to replace it. So, replace it I will. Yes, Vallejo. I worked at the shipyard from 68 to 93. Got just right amount of years to retire due to base closure.

[Dawgfever]

Nice thread guys. Very informative.

[MidwestCamper]

This will be my first time replacing a bearing race. I've looked at many videos. I always figure if something can go wrong, I'll find it. LOL. Its a shame I need to do this because my trailer is about 6 months old. I have just under 4000 miles on it. The bearing was questionable, so I'll replace that. The race looks as good as new. But, the consensus on this board is to replace it. So, replace it I will. Yes, Vallejo. I worked at the shipyard from 68 to 93. Got just right amount of years to retire due to base closure.

Nick1234,

Bearings and races must always be replaced together as a set. You can drive the race out from the back side with a brass drift which cannot do any harm to the drum or race. When installing the new race, center it carefully while tapping gently side to side to make sure it gets centered squarely. Once its centered you can be more aggressive on tapping in it from side to side. As you remove the sharp edge from the brass drift, you can put a new flat edge on it with a bench grinder. You will feel the difference on the drift when the race is fully seated. You can always freeze the bearing races to ease the installation. Of course there are aluminum cup drivers but most folks will not have these.
https://www.amazon.com/Solid-Brass-D...gateway&sr=8-8

If your not comfortable with this approach, you could always take the cleaned drums with new bearings, races and seals to an auto parts store to have the bearings packed and the components installed.
Jim

[Cate&Rob]

@Nick1234,

If the brass drift doesn't work as Jim @MidwestCamper describes, you may need to use a good quality steel drift. Sometimes, the edge of the race that you can catch with the drift is so narrow that the corner of a brass drift will keep breaking off. The race needs to come out squarely. (using the drift all around the perimeter) If you can get a temperature difference (race colder and hub warmer) this will help. I have heated the hub with a propane torch with a snowball sitting in the bearing race . . . when the snowball starts to melt, turn the hub over and work quickly with the drift and hammer .

Rob