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04-19-2019, 01:52 PM #11
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@howson, just the messenger here, the following might be useful information.
http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.htmlLast edited by boyscout; 04-19-2019 at 01:54 PM.
Mark - 2018 Solitude 310GK - 2017 F-350 diesel SRW short box - Pullrite Superglide hitch
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04-19-2019, 02:29 PM #12
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Both would work - the advantage to his is the 2/0 wire from battery to battery and the advantage to mine is that it's cleaner (with the disadvantage of all 4/0 wire). I'm not an electrical engineer (nor did I stay at a holiday in express) - so if I were you I would go with what he said.
2018 RAM 3500 Laramie 4x4, 6.7L Cummins Turbo Diesel, Crew Cab, Long Bed, 3.73 gear ratio, AISIN trans, B&W Companion, Air Lift 7500XL
2020 Momentum 397TH
2014 Victory Cross Country Tour
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04-19-2019, 02:55 PM #13
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I talked with Garret about those diagrams (Damon, in my Electrical Mod thread, pointed me to the website). Here (with his permission) is Garret's response to me regarding drawing 4 I was going to implement and also the difference between Damon's setup and mine:
Note: For those that haven't read the Electrical Mod thread, Damon also got a system from AMSolar. (I am not connected to AMSolar in any way, shape or form other than as a customer.)2017 Ford F-350 DRW 6.7L Platinum
2019 315RLTS (purchased 16 Jul 18 from Campers Inn RV in Byron, GA)
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04-19-2019, 03:07 PM #14
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I love this forum. This has helped me learn A LOT. Admittedly my earlier diagram would not properly draw a balanced load from all batteries. Based on the page provided by @boyscout here's what I would do NOW:
2018 RAM 3500 Laramie 4x4, 6.7L Cummins Turbo Diesel, Crew Cab, Long Bed, 3.73 gear ratio, AISIN trans, B&W Companion, Air Lift 7500XL
2020 Momentum 397TH
2014 Victory Cross Country Tour
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04-19-2019, 04:42 PM #15
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Parallel is parallel
The nice thing about Battle Born batteries is that they have the built in BMS (Battery Maintenance System). So, they are not subject to any of the rules that apply to connecting lead acid batteries in parallel. And the length of cables is irrelevant because of the BMS. Now, in a lead acid battery setup this is a different story, but for BB batteries they are very forgiving.
I am all about having the least number of connectors. And I think a clean setup has only a few connections actually on the battery post themselves.
I would be inclined to use QTY (2) four post power terminal blocks (POS and NEG) as described in other posts in this thread and route individual wires from the TB to each battery.
One note about the wiring arrangement I have shown in my schematic. We all know the cost of Battle Born batteries is up there. So, using the 4-post terminal block and running individual wires for each battery, you could start out with just two batteries. Then at some point in time, if you want to add a 3rd or a 3rd and 4th you can add them without redoing the wiring to the 1st two.
As a disclaimer, I will say that I did have a problem with the 4-post terminal block I had used. The bolts that makeup the terminal block are stainless steel with stainless steel nuts. After installation I had to make a change to reroute a couple of cables and when I went to remove the nuts, two of the four nuts were galled so bad I had to cut the nuts off. I replaced the bolts, nuts, and washers with ordinary grade 5 zinc plated bolts and that worked well. It is not uncommon for stainless steel bolts and nuts to do this, so be careful.Last edited by 2825Matheny; 04-20-2019 at 06:58 AM.
Peggy and Jamey Matheny
2016 Grand Design Solitude 5th Wheel 369RL Serial #G1104808
As of 19 April 2019, 792 nights and 23,887 trailer miles.
2015 Ford F-250 4X4 Super Cab SRW 148" WB 6.7L Powerstroke Diesel
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04-19-2019, 05:38 PM #16
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Absolutely what I want to do, but I'm concerned about the specs on the four post terminal blocks that I can find. The max rating is 250A. Is that enough? The shutoff switches are rated to 300A, and the fuse the engineer provided to me for the system is 400A.
I just reviewed a few wire charts and it looks like 4/0 cable is only good up to ~200-260A, so it looks like I'm wrong (again). The 4 terminal block recommended by Jim *will* work. Or am I still missing something?2017 Ford F-350 DRW 6.7L Platinum
2019 315RLTS (purchased 16 Jul 18 from Campers Inn RV in Byron, GA)
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04-19-2019, 06:44 PM #17
Hi Howard,
Here is a 600A four post bussbar. https://www.bluesea.com/products/210...3_8in-16_Studs.
RobCate & Rob
2015 Reflection 303RLS
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04-19-2019, 09:19 PM #18
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Howard,
I see 250A DC Rated Amps for your Inverter/Charger. I'd think that would be the max continuous amps if using all the 3000W capacity.
Service Manual - MultiPlus 3k 120V (firmware xxxx4xx)
The 400A class T fuse looks to be from Victron's recommendation.
The class T, ANL, and MRBF type fuses I think fall into the short circuit protection of high amperage DC equipment like Inverters, Chargers, VFDs.
3.5.4
"To prevent occurrence of hazardous conditions under short circuit conditions, the fuse used in the battery circuit should limit the current (should be "Current Limiting Type"), blow in a very short time (should be Fast Blow Type) and at the same time, quench the arc in a safe manner. For this purpose, UL Class T fuse or equivalent should be used (As per UL Standard 248-15). This special purpose current limiting, very fast acting fuse will blow in less than 8 ms under short circuit conditions.
Appropriate capacity of the above Class T fuse or equivalent should be installed within 7” of the battery Plus (+) Terminal (Please see Table 3.1 for fuse sizing).
Marine Rated Battery Fuses, MRBF-xxx Series made by Cooper Bussmann may also be used.
These fuses comply with ISO 8820-6 for road vehicles."- Gene
Kim & Gene
2015 Reflection 317RST
2017 Ram 3500 CC LB 4x2 6.7 CTD AISIN 3.73 DRW Auto Level Rear Air, BD3, Prodigy P3, Aux Tank
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04-20-2019, 04:49 AM #19
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04-20-2019, 05:16 AM #20
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Thanks, as always, Gene for the detailed response. I now know using the Fastronix four post bar Jim referenced is within specs for my setup.
There's so much about all of this equipment that is new to me that it is a little overwhelming. I could (should) have known what you posted, but it seems I can't absorb all of the new knowledge I need fast enough. (3000W/12V=250A!)
I'm paranoid (rightfully so?) of making a mistake that fries something or makes the setup a fire hazard. I've seen what happens when a mistake is made with a high-amperage 12V power supply. It wasn't pretty.
Thanks again!
-Howard2017 Ford F-350 DRW 6.7L Platinum
2019 315RLTS (purchased 16 Jul 18 from Campers Inn RV in Byron, GA)
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