How much payload do I really need?

[mageorge]

I have a 2014 2500 Ram. We I bought in the spring of 2014, I tested a 2013 3500 as well, I opted for 2500 because it had coil springs in the rear instead of leaf springs- I thought- I’m driving this as my daily driver so go with the seemingly softer ride. In retrospect, I would buy the 3500 - turns out these heavy duty trucks are all rough without the weight of the trailer on the back. Once loaded, they ride nice.


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[Greene728]

Let me put youre mind at ease some. I have a 2015 SRW 3500 and it too is my DD. Yes, the 2500 is oh so slightly a better ride, but not by much. Here's what i have learned I'll share with you. Tire pressure and good shocks are the name of the game! The factory shocks are marginal at best. But a set like Bilstein 4600's make a difference. During the spring and summer (primary towing time) I keep front at 60 and rear at 72-75 for the pin weight. During the late fall and winter (or anytime there's a couple weeks or more between towing) I will air the rears down to 55 or so and it makes a big difference. Im fortunate to have a air compressor in the garage so making these adjustments are quick and easy. Plus, with the 3500 you are able to make these lower adjustments without the aggravating TPMS light annoying you where you can't with the 2500. Take the plunge on the 3500, you won't regret it. Mine handles our 303 which is only slightly larger than your rig like it's child's play. And that in turns makes for such an enjoyable stress free drive and experience.

Scott

[pilotpip]

If you go ford or GM the differences are very minimal. They do the leaf springs in the back as others have mentioned, so they use a helper spring that doesn't come into play until there is some weight on the truck. The frame on the 1 ton will use a little thicker wall steel, but otherwise both trucks are mechanically identical.

[chunker]

I also recommend the 3500 Ram. If you want to soften the ride, load a few hundred # in the back. Won't affect MPG and will take the edge off some.

[Second Chance]

... since the used selection is so much better in the 2500.

There are two reasons for this: 1) more 3/4-ton trucks are sold in the first place, and 2) people who buy 1-ton trucks don't need to trade them in to move up to a heavier truck. Just sayin'.

Rob

[chunker]

There are two reasons for this: 1) more 3/4-ton trucks are sold in the first place, and 2) people who buy 1-ton trucks don't need to trade them in to move up to a heavier truck. Just sayin'.

Rob

Agree. I'm also in the wish I'd done it right the first time club. Expensive club membership by the way. But that said and previously owning a Ford F-250 SD diesel with wimpy cargo capacity I began searching, and researching, an upgrade. I'm lucky in that I'm a not a fall-on-my-sword Ford/GM/Ram proponent and looked at them all. Using some of the auto selling sites (carguru in this case), a few months ago I located a NEW leftover 17 Ram 3500 Laramie CC, LWB. Properly optioned and dealer made a great offer on my wimpy F-250. The Ram is a SRW which limits what I can tow but that's OK since my future purchase will be around 35' such as a Solitude 310GK. I did my calculations based on my type towing and what I planned to carry. B&W puck companion, RDS 51g aux tank and an appropriately equipped 310. Trucks 4207# capacity will work just fine. Look around and you will find plenty of 1T around but you may not find it next door. Be sort of flexible in truck amenities because every option subtracts from capacity. Example sun roof, skid plates etc.

[Steven@147]

Since I have both a Ram 2500 SRW Short Bed and a Ram 3500 DRW Long Bed and my Son-In-Law has a Ford F350 SRW Long Bed here is my opinion. As far as ride quality - Both of my Rams have the same rear leaf spring suspension with an overload leaf. Both of them are 4x4. Both of them have "E" rated LT tires. The 2500 Ram is SRW and by factory recommendation all tires have 80 psi. The 3500 by factory recs has 80 in front 65 in each rear duels. On good roads and highways there is no difference in the ride quality. When I ride in my SIL Ford, there is no difference in the ride quality verses my Rams. They all feel the same in ride quality. On bad roads bumpy, dippy, uneven, groved, pot holed and what ever, I can't really tell the difference because both of them ride rough, even my SIL Ford.

Now other aspects of the Ram 2500 Vs the 3500. My trucks are way too different in manufacturer date to compare. Both have Cummins engines but the 2500 is a 2002, the 3500 is a 2018. Both have the same ride quality but a big difference in engine performance and fuel economy.

Another category - Parking - the 3500 is a little more difficult with is wide duel hips than the 2500 but then again most parking lots are aimed mostly at small cars & SUVs not bigger trucks so in the end I have to park in the boonies with either truck.

Payload and Tow Capacity is what I was major concerned about. I am a one timer truck upgrader. One of my family members when I was a teenager was always buying the wrong truck for the job, I learned from him what not to do. When we went looking for new trucks to eventually tow a 5er, we went way over what we thought we needed and got the 3500. It hurt! Boy did it hurt financially! But we will never have to worry about can our truck do it!
In 2002 when we bought the Ram 2500 to tow our car trailer with the drag car inside, we went way over what we need then, it cost $37,000 back then and it hurt. This 3500, in the end, it cost $65,000, Oh Oh Oh it hurt like hemorrhoids!!

I suspect you know what to do, you just can't bring yourself to do it!

[GeoffnCheri]

I suspect you know what to do, you just can't bring yourself to do it!

^^^ This ^^^^

The general payload gain between a 3/4 ton diesel and a 1 ton SRW diesel is about #1000 +/- options. The difference to a DRW is about #3 ,000+/-.

[Rapid1]

The only reason to go to a 1 ton over a 3/4 ton is the extra springs and the higher rated tires. There is no extra thicker extra wall steel. The powertrains and brakes are the same and the only reason to go dually is the two extra tires to carry the load. The axles are still rated the same because they are the exact same axles, 3" or so longer so they clear the inside of the bed with dual wheels. All one needs to do is look at the GCWR rating of all of these chassis to see it. It's so hard to believe that people stress over this. If you have a pin that is 3k lbs, you need the extra tires, otherwise, don't worry about it. Just look at your RAWR and go from there...just be sure that some of the weight gets to the front too. All this spending 10k or more for a new truck just makes me dizzy. Payload is about emissions certification and licensing...nothing more.

[BabyBober]

The only reason to go to a 1 ton over a 3/4 ton is the extra springs and the higher rated tires. There is no extra thicker extra wall steel. The powertrains and brakes are the same and the only reason to go dually is the two extra tires to carry the load. The axles are still rated the same because they are the exact same axles, 3" or so longer so they clear the inside of the bed with dual wheels. All one needs to do is look at the GCWR rating of all of these chassis to see it. It's so hard to believe that people stress over this. If you have a pin that is 3k lbs, you need the extra tires, otherwise, don't worry about it. Just look at your RAWR and go from there...just be sure that some of the weight gets to the front too. All this spending 10k or more for a new truck just makes me dizzy. Payload is about emissions certification and licensing...nothing more.

Hi, while I don’t mean to be disagreeable that may have been the case with “your father’s” truck but certainly is not the case any more. While I fully agree the basic chassis is the same, brakes, suspension, transmission and axles can absolutely be different, at least with Ford. I throughly researched this before buying my ‘17 F350. YMMV.

Jim