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03-18-2023, 08:21 AM #21
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That checks from what I recall seeing last time i went back there. Thanks again, I appreciated hearing about your project.
And thanks to all you guys that responded, it’s great to have forums like this to ask questions and get real answers.
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03-23-2023, 04:41 PM #22
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I have a 2019 303 RLS, with 4 100 Ah Battleborns in the forward bay charged by a PD 9160 ALV. My problem has been that unless the battery bank is almost completely discharged, I never get more than 35 amps to the batteries. I know other 303 owners with this charger get similar results. I’ve been on the line a couple of times with PD tech support and we’ve eliminated all causes except inadequate wiring (6 gauge) between the converter and the batteries. I’m about to re-wire this to 1/0 wire to reduce voltage drop. Just adding this because you state the existing wiring is suitable. It may not be depending on your rig and desire to achieve full charge capacity of your charger.
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03-23-2023, 05:08 PM #23
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2022 Reflection 31MB
2013 F350 Super Duty w/ Firestone 7.5k Red Label Ride Rite air bags
B&W Turnover-ball and B&W companion hitch
Mac Air Warhorse
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03-23-2023, 05:12 PM #24
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I should be OK with putting the new converter where the old one is. I'm only going to the one LiFePo battery and putting it where the old battery is.
Bob (retired) & Vicki
Scuba Diver
US ARMY Vet (Go Cav!)
2019 Reflection 31MB
2019 Chevy 2500HD LT Crew Cab Gasser
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03-23-2023, 05:22 PM #25
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Correct, same location. I’m still researching and reading threads. Some here have left the existing wiring in place and run a second set of wires from the second set of lugs on the 9160 directly to the battery bank. That may be the way I go. We boondock a fair amount and it takes a long time to charge the battery bank at 25 to 35 amps versus 60 amps.
Jeff & Susan
With Annie, our dachshund
2019 Reflection 303RLS #123, TST 507 TPMS
2019 F-350 XLT 4x4 PSD SRW CC LB Factory 5th Wheel Prep Package
B&W Companion OEM Hitch
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03-23-2023, 05:30 PM #26
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03-23-2023, 08:03 PM #27
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When you installed the PD converter, did you wire it exactly the same as the original? The reason I ask is that the stock wiring goes from converter to DC panel to battery adding an additional 6 feet of 6awg cable (12 feet of circuit - positive and negative). Since the PD9160AL has two positive and two negative terminals, you should be able to make the battery run directly from the converter and eliminate that extra 12 feet. Remove the cables that go from DC panel to battery, cut off the excess, and connect to the converter. You also reduce the number of physical connections between the converter and battery that way (probably more responsible for voltage drop than the cable size).
Where/how are you measuring the 35 amp output? Since the total output is 60 amps, any load on the DC panel will reduce the output to the battery - especially the way it comes wired from the factory. Load first, then battery charge.Last edited by Jomani; 03-23-2023 at 08:09 PM.
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03-24-2023, 06:29 AM #28
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You will have to forgive my ignorance on this one, but if you get rid of the connection from the panel to the battery, how does the RV get dc power back to the dc panel when the converter isn’t running? My understanding is that connection from the panel to the battery is the conduit for the battery bank to power the main DC distribution panel when on battery only.
2022 Reflection 31MB
2013 F350 Super Duty w/ Firestone 7.5k Red Label Ride Rite air bags
B&W Turnover-ball and B&W companion hitch
Mac Air Warhorse
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03-24-2023, 06:33 AM #29
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When I installed the 9160 I simply removed the old converter/charger and hooked up the PD 9160ALV exactly the same as the old unit. I changed none of the wiring.
Regarding the wiring from the converter/charger to the DC panel and the DC panel to the battery bank, a couple of months ago I lowered the coroplast belly from the front axle forward to the front bay (to change out a stuck gray tank gate valve) and noticed coils of 12 volt wire going from the middle of the rig to the front bay. I didn't have time to trace the wiring down to its termination points but I wondered if this was part of my problem if these did indeed go to the battery. There had to be an extra 10 to 15 feet of 6 gauge wire wrapped up in loops down there.
You're saying the OEM connection was converter/charger to DC panel, DC Panel to battery bank. The new installation would be converter/charger to DC Panel (via OEM connections), remove OEM terminations from DC Panel to battery bank, cut OEM cables to length, then reconnect to the second set of lugs on the converter/charger. I can try that and see what it does for my charge rate. If I'm still not getting full charge rating of the 9160 I can always swap in the larger gauge wire from the 9160 to the battery bank.
I'm reading directly off of my Victron BMV 712 and confirmed the reading with a clamp meter off the charger output.
Thanks for the reply and help.Jeff & Susan
With Annie, our dachshund
2019 Reflection 303RLS #123, TST 507 TPMS
2019 F-350 XLT 4x4 PSD SRW CC LB Factory 5th Wheel Prep Package
B&W Companion OEM Hitch
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03-24-2023, 09:46 AM #30
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That is correct. Below is a picture of the connection on the back of my panel. You can see both of the 6awg cables terminating there. I have to believe GD did this because their go to converter/charger, WFCO only had a single set of terminals. When your rig was equipped with a single lead acid battery, the primary purpose of the converter/charger was to supply 12 volts to the DC panel - battery charging would have been minimal. With 400ah of lithium and boon docking, charging the battery bank quickly becomes the priority.
2022 Ram 2500 4x4, 6.7 Cummins, RamBox, Air Lift 5000 Ultimate Plus, B&W Companion
2022 Reflection 303RLS, Progressive hardwired EMS, Airborne Sidewinder
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