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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by jkwilson View Post
    Absent a problem in the trailer, supply wiring issues won’t cause current to flow in the grounding conductor.
    Unless he has the hot in the equipment ground position, but then nothing would work in the trailer, so that can’t be it. Hard to say how much would flow in that case anyway, maybe/probably very little depending on all kinds of things. I’d say your thought of an errant N-G bond is the most likely.
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  2. #12
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    He mentioned using a dog bone 50-30 amp. Perhaps the fault is in the dog bone.

    Bill
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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redapple63 View Post
    He mentioned using a dog bone 50-30 amp. Perhaps the fault is in the dog bone.

    Bill
    I can’t think of a way that could happen. Ground can only have current flow if there is a ground fault occurs where current from the hot flows in the ground, or a neutral-ground bond. But current only flows in the grounding conductor under those circumstances between the fault/bond and the power source. So the fault is likely on the trailer side of the shore power connection.

    Since OP has a fairly significant solar and battery installation, I’d put my money on an ATS problem, ATS mis-wiring or an unneeded neutral ground bond in the inverter setup.
    Last edited by jkwilson; 05-13-2023 at 09:34 AM.
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  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by jkwilson View Post
    I can’t think of a way that could happen. Ground can only have current flow if there is a ground fault occurs where current from the hot flows in the ground, or a neutral-ground bond. But current only flows in the grounding conductor under those circumstances between the fault/bond and the power source. So the fault is likely on the trailer side of the shore power connection.

    Since OP has a fairly significant solar and battery installation, I’d put my money on an ATS problem, ATS mis-wiring or an unneeded neutral ground bond in the inverter setup.
    i can think of a scenario where the problem could be in the supply outlet or dogbone. If something in the supply is making the ground lead to the trailer “hot”, current could flow to the trailer frame through the trailer ground lead, through the frame, through the jacks or stabilizers, and back to the supply at the main panel. This could only happen if the trailer frame is grounded somehow to earth. There might be enough resistance in this situation to keep the supply breaker from tripping.

    I agree with jkwilson, however, that the most likely cause is a neutral/ground bond somewhere in the trailer. In either event, the OP’s trailer frame is “hot” and potentially dangerous. I wouldn’t plug the RV back in unitl you’ve diagnosed and fixed the problem. If you know your way around a voltmeter/resistance meter, you could start by seeing if the ground and neutral prongs on the RV’s power socket are connected. They shouldn’t be. If they are, you have a neutral/ground bond somewhere in the RV and you need to dig deeper.

    I would also plug in just the dogbone, not the RV power cord, into your extension cord and, with the voltmeter, check the voltage between one of hot sockets and the ground socket in the female dogbone plug. It should be about 120v. If it isn’t, the problem is on the supply side.

    If you aren’t knowledgeable about power issues and don’t have experience using a voltmeter, I would get a repair tech that is. A hot ground is a serious issue. Be very careful here.
    Last edited by Tom Traveler; 05-13-2023 at 10:14 AM.
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  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redapple63 View Post
    That type of thing happens because of increased resistance and elevated temperature. I am willing to bet it is because of a potential loose connection or maybe a low voltage situation.

    Remove the plug on both ends end ensure a good solid connection for all conductors at both ends.

    Use a multimeter and check the voltage going in.

    Lastly, these types of plugs do tend to spin a bit, even after you tighten that ring.

    I would not plug that back in until you find the source of the issue.

    Good Luck
    Bill
    Thanks for this advice (as well as the "don't use this plug again." Right.

    FWIW, voltage in and out of the cable, including the 30 Amp extension cable, is steady at ~121/122 Volts.

    Continuity checks cleanly on all 4 lines, from end to end.

    The trailer is currently getting its bearings repacked, so I can't examine the connector at the trailer itself, which (as I recall) is a bit blackened. So it, too, needs to be replaced.

    The current cable is factory-supplied and molded at both ends; so it's really difficult to figure out if there's a poor connection interior to the plugs (on either end). There are 2 long screws on the female end, top and bottom in the picture I posted, but unscrewing them doesn't seem to make the "guts" removable, unless I just need to use more force.

    The male end of the shore cable shows no evidence of overheating.

    I'm considering getting the SmartPlug system from etrailer:

    https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Power-In...ug/SM76FR.html

    Anyone familiar with how good this is (it should be very very good for the price!!).

    But my main remaining question: the area that's blackened is the ground; correct? Why would the ground get hot unless there was a short involved? And wouldn't that kick a breaker?

    Thanks for all the help. Further advice welcomed!
    Jim and Merna

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  6. #16
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    Yikes! I should have read all of the further responses before posting my latest; sorry! I'll work on checking out issues at the trailer before proceeding, but that'll have to wait until I get it back from the bearing folks.

    Thanks again!
    Jim and Merna

    2021 Solitude 345GK-R w/ 17.5 wheels/Cooper H-rated tires (replacing a 2014 Solitude 369RL).
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  7. #17
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    Tom Traveler said:

    I would also plug in just the dogbone, not the RV power cord, into your extension cord and, with the voltmeter, check the voltage between one of hot sockets and the ground socket in the female dogbone plug. It should be about 120v. If it isn’t, the problem is on the supply side.
    Yeah, I did this. It's at ~ 121/122v on either hot to ground on the dogbone. So the power supply seems OK.
    Jim and Merna

    2021 Solitude 345GK-R w/ 17.5 wheels/Cooper H-rated tires (replacing a 2014 Solitude 369RL).
    8k axles upgraded with Mor-Ryde IS/disc brakes and Solar (1280 watts + 800Ah Lithium batteries).
    2015 F-350 6.7 diesel SRW, Curt 20k hitch.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimibooks View Post

    I'm considering getting the SmartPlug system from etrailer:

    https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Power-In...ug/SM76FR.html

    But my main remaining question: the area that's blackened is the ground; correct?
    I think it’s been answered, but yes, that is the ground and, yes, there shouldn’t be any current flowing on that contact without a short or some bad wiring somewhere. If the RV power cord goes straight into the RV socket without a 90 degree adapter, the weight of the cord tends to pull that ground connection apart resulting in a poor connection. That may be why you had arcing from current that shouldn’t have been there in the first place. With regard to the supply breaker, there may be enough resistance in the faulty circuit, wherever that is, to prevent tripping the supply breaker. A neutral/ground bond in the RV would cause this without tripping the supply breaker.

    The socket and plug from etrailer looks nice (it should at the price) except for one thing - why in the world didn’t they build it with a 90 degree angle at the plug so the heavy power cord hangs straight down from the RV socket instead of sticking out and putting a lot of strain on the socket?
    Last edited by Tom Traveler; 05-13-2023 at 11:31 AM.
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  9. #19
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    Another thought i had on this, if the neutral and ground inside the trailer were reversed you would have voltage on the ground lug going back to the shore power source. This, along with all the other possibilities listed above means you have a bit of detective work to do to get this safely corrected.

    When you tested the dogbone, with it plugged into a 30 amp 3 prong outlet you should have 120VAC on L1 to neutral and 120 VAC from L2 to neutral. You should also see 120VAC fro L1 to ground and 1200VAC from L2 to ground. Between neutral and ground should be 0VAC and between L1 and L2 you should see 0VAC. Also, just for test purposes, check the voltage in the 30 amp outlet where you should see 120VAC between L1 and Neutral and 120VAC between L1 and Ground with 0VAC between ground and neutral.
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  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Traveler View Post
    i can think of a scenario where the problem could be in the supply outlet or dogbone. If something in the supply is making the ground lead to the trailer “hot”, current could flow to the trailer frame through the trailer ground lead, through the frame, through the jacks or stabilizers, and back to the supply at the main panel. This could only happen if the trailer frame is grounded somehow to earth. There might be enough resistance in this situation to keep the supply breaker from tripping.
    I wouldn’t argue with that being a possibility. I tend to make it lower likelihood, and think you do as well, because of likelihood and the odds that it would happen without another symptom. But I’ve found weirder things!
    John & Kathy
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