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  1. #11
    Site Team Second Chance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FL-Guy View Post
    ... Being a retired ED Physician, I elected to "suture" the wound in the coroplast when we got the trailer.

    Make small holes about 1.5 to 2" apart on both sides of the cut with an awl aligning them opposite each other. Then threaded some small zip ties through each of the hole pairs (in one side, across the cut on the inside and out the other side.) Do not zip them closed until you have all of them in because you will need the space to get between the sides of the cut to thread them. Use a long nose plier or similar to help you thread the ziptie from the inside back out the second hole. Then loosely start each ziptie loop to make sure they don't fall off while added silicon caulk to the cut trying to keep it mostly on the inside. Then zip up all the zipties just snug against the coroplast, cut the tails and put some caulk on the outside.
    Worked out great and DID NOT fall off or open up.
    So... an interrupted suture. I hope the zip ties weren't chromic!

    Rob
    U.S. Army Retired
    2012 F350 DRW CC LB Lariat PS 6.7
    2020 Solitude 310GK-R, MORryde IS, disc brakes,
    Sailun LRG tires, solar, DP windows, W/D
    (Previously in a Reflection 337RLS)
    Full time since 08/2015

  2. #12
    Long Hauler huntindog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gronk1 View Post
    After the fact, but my coroplast was taken down twice for repair to a slide cylinder & dump valve replacement then reattached. A quality repair shop should do this. Cutting the underbelly is just the lazy way out.
    Coroplast is orignally installed when the frame is upside down.
    After the tanks and some plumbing, the fiberglass insulation is rolled on, some glue in a few spots, last is the coroplast. After if is screwed on. the frame is flipped and the RV is built on top. Having dealt with this, doing repairs on a couple of coaches, I can tell you that removing the entire coroplast for a simple valve replacement Is not feasable. When the coroplast comes down, so does a lot of the insulation. It is impossible to get it put back as good as it was. Gravity is not a friend here. To top it off, it really is a HAZMAT job. Those fiberglass particles will fill the air.They are dangerous to breath into the lungs, and not nice to skin or eyes. When I have to remove it, I do not even try to put it back. I get all dressed up in my suit and full face respirator. Get it all out, dispose of it and install Hard board polyisocronate insulation. It is a BIG job. But is safe to work with, and will NOT absorb water. Light as a feather. When reinstalling the coroplast it goes up in sections, making future repairs SAFE and easy.[
    Last edited by huntindog; 05-19-2023 at 05:07 PM.
    2021 398M Full Body Paint 8k axles. LRH tires. Disc brakes.
    Two bathrooms, no waiting 155 fresh, 104 black, 104 grey 1860 watts solar.
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  3. #13
    Seasoned Camper Rivercityjeff's Avatar
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    Gorilla tape lasted a year. We had a stuck grey tank valve thanks to a "factory" wood cutout dropped into the tank.

    Local mobile RV tech told me he uses a quality silicone caulk adhesive and a political signs to patch corroplast.

    Worked for me. Held everything in place with staples until the caulk dried. A little black spray paint and a good use for all those stupid signs.
    https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...olitical+signs
    Jeff and Mary
    2017 2600RB
    2022 F250 Lariat CC 6.7 w/ Max Tow
    Round Rock, (Donut Capital of Texas) <><

  4. #14
    Seasoned Camper
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    Quote Originally Posted by Second Chance View Post
    So... an interrupted suture. I hope the zip ties weren't chromic!

    Rob
    Only if I want a repeat visit for wound dehiscence
    Frank & Nadine
    2023 Imagine XLS 17MKE
    2021 Ford F‑150 XLT 3.5L V6 Hybrid 4WD SuperCrew Cab Factory Max tow package

  5. #15
    Site Sponsor Gronk1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by huntindog View Post
    Coroplast is orignally installed when the frame is upside down.
    After the tanks and some plumbing, the fiberglass insulation is rolled on, some glue in a few spots, last is the coroplast. After if is screwed on. the frame is flipped and the RV is built on top. Having dealt with this, doing repairs on a couple of coaches, I can tell you that removing the entire coroplast for a simple valve replacement Is not feasable. When the coroplast comes down, so does a lot of the insulation. It is impossible to get it put back as good as it was. Gravity is not a friend here. To top it off, it really is a HAZMAT job. Those fiberglass particles will fill the air.They are dangerous to breath into the lungs, and not nice to skin or eyes. When I have to remove it, I do not even try to put it back. I get all dressed up in my suit and full face respirator. Get it all out, dispose of it and install Hard board polyisocronate insulation. It is a BIG job. But is safe to work with, and will NOT absorb water. Light as a feather. When reinstalling the coroplast it goes up in sections, making future repairs SAFE and easy.[
    My RV guy did it. When I had a leaking slide cylinder I made the mistake of taking it to a dealer as it was under warranty. They cut the coroplast & swapped out the wrong cylinder. After discussing this with GD, I took it local. To add insult to injury the dealer threw the return line for the fluid on top of the cylinder. The first time the slide was closed it pinched the line & fluid went into the insulation.
    GD authorized a new section of coroplast & insulation.
    Then later he brought the coroplast down again to replace the valve...& replaced it. No cuts, no tape, no injuries...everybody went home happy
    Oh yea, it was tighter than the factory sagging coroplast.
    Paul, Sue & Wonder Dog Zane
    '18 Solitude 310 GK
    "15 F-350 6.7, DRW, CC

  6. #16
    Setting Up Camp
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    Quote Originally Posted by kb0zke View Post
    "Cutting the underbelly is just the lazy way out."

    Agree, but the question is what to do after the fact. We, too, had a grey water dump valve replaced the day we bought the trailer, and the tech cut the belly skin. He put some sort of black, sticky patch on it, but that lasted only until we got back to The Ranch. I've tried a couple of different repairs, but none have held for more than a couple of travel days. We're talking about a factory tour in mid-September, so maybe I'll ask some questions then. In the meantime I'll order some of that tape mentioned above.
    Please let us know what the factory recommends the proper procedure for resealing any cuts in the Coro Plast.

  7. #17
    Long Hauler huntindog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gronk1 View Post
    My RV guy did it. When I had a leaking slide cylinder I made the mistake of taking it to a dealer as it was under warranty. They cut the coroplast & swapped out the wrong cylinder. After discussing this with GD, I took it local. To add insult to injury the dealer threw the return line for the fluid on top of the cylinder. The first time the slide was closed it pinched the line & fluid went into the insulation.
    GD authorized a new section of coroplast & insulation.
    Then later he brought the coroplast down again to replace the valve...& replaced it. No cuts, no tape, no injuries...everybody went home happy
    Oh yea, it was tighter than the factory sagging coroplast.
    I highly doubt that all of the insulation made it back into the underbelly. If it did, it is not where it should be. As for the no injuries comment..... Fiberglass inhalation won't necessairly cause immediate injury....Much like smoking, it's damage is cumulative. (though I think it acts faster). people still smoke, even though everyone should know about the results of doing so by now. I suppose your RV guy may not consider it a hazard. If you like this guy, you should tell him.
    2021 398M Full Body Paint 8k axles. LRH tires. Disc brakes.
    Two bathrooms, no waiting 155 fresh, 104 black, 104 grey 1860 watts solar.
    800AH BattleBorn Batteries No campgrounds 100% boondocking
    2020 Silverado High Country 3500 dually crewcab Duramax Allison

  8. #18
    Site Sponsor Gronk1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by huntindog View Post
    I highly doubt that all of the insulation made it back into the underbelly. If it did, it is not where it should be. As for the no injuries comment..... Fiberglass inhalation won't necessairly cause immediate injury....Much like smoking, it's damage is cumulative. (though I think it acts faster). people still smoke, even though everyone should know about the results of doing so by now. I suppose your RV guy may not consider it a hazard. If you like this guy, you should tell him.
    I don't think he did the work nakedI believe he did it with a Tyvek suit, gloves, goggles and a mask on. He was born at night, just not last night. As for the insulation, he bought new as the original was saturated. I have no reason to doubt he put it in and as correctly as possible. He does do quality work. And that was my point.

    And he still didn't cut the coroplast.
    Last edited by Gronk1; 05-20-2023 at 10:42 PM.
    Paul, Sue & Wonder Dog Zane
    '18 Solitude 310 GK
    "15 F-350 6.7, DRW, CC

  9. #19
    Setting Up Camp
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    That sounds like a nice permanent solution. The problem I am having with tape is that I cannot press it on with any pressure due to not having any backing to press against. I’ve thought about stitching it as a solution but didn’t know what to use. Thanks for the tip!

  10. #20
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    I've resorted to cutting my coroplast replace a broken gray tank cable while on the road. I used Gorilla Waterproof Patch and Seal (comes in a 4"X10' roll). Super adhesive to a clean surface. It bonded pretty solidly and has lasted just over a year thus far.

    I also found an item literally called "RV Underbelly Tape" on Amazon recently but have NOT yet tried it:

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BGHMQLTP...d_plhdr=t&th=1
    2019 Momentum 376TH, 2020 GMC Sierra 3500HD DRW

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