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  1. #41
    Site Team traveldawg's Avatar
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    There is always the option of checking https://www.campgroundreviews.com to see if someone has made a comment about power and then choosing whether to use that campground or not. Everyone is posting their experiences there - aren't they? You should. I could use the info so I can avoid those places.
    Larry KE4DMG
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  2. #42
    Long Hauler geotex1's Avatar
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    Oh look, the autoformer/autotransformer debate again... I really hoped Mike Sokul was going to put the matter to bed on his deep testing dive in late 2020, but after 3 installments his work with the Hughes just died an he went on with other articles and studies... Maybe his findings supported the concern... I'm not here for this debate, but I did notice some misconception stated in this thread.

    The problem of low voltage exists at old and new campgrounds alike... The Code actually allows for the proliferation of the problem within campgrounds with high occupancy. This is the direct result of application of the demand factors.

    We travel near and far and stay in a host of campgrounds from State parks to private resorts to rented timeshared sites. Have encountered low voltage commonly throughout the last two summer seasons with jam-packed camping weekends, and of course, zero issues Tuesday through Thursday at them!
    Rob & Nikki + Cloverfield
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  3. #43
    Fireside Member daltontrio's Avatar
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    In addition to infrastructure and demand/supply issues, add in staffing as well. We were in a Mississippi state park in July and had issues with the pedestal on 2 adjacent sites. The poor campground technician did everything he could and between him and me we managed to get both working. However, during the conversation, he told me that the state of MS has one part time licensed electrician for all of their state parks. I can’t say enough good things about that young man, but the state sure is putting him in a tough spot.
    2021 F350 CCSB 4x4 SRW with Air Lift springs
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  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by RickLight View Post
    EMS do more than protect against low voltage. Twice in 3 years I've bypassed because of open ground issues. Once allerted, I could be extra cautious outside. If I got a low voltage I would shut off my AC.
    I had the open ground alert last week when I plugged in to the park. I moved the cord around and got a connection that is holding for now. If it occurs again and I bypass, what do I need to be cautious of? How do I determine if the problem is my cord or their recepticle? THANKS--Jerry
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  5. #45
    Site Team Second Chance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ellen and Jerry View Post
    I had the open ground alert last week when I plugged in to the park. I moved the cord around and got a connection that is holding for now. If it occurs again and I bypass, what do I need to be cautious of? How do I determine if the problem is my cord or their recepticle? THANKS--Jerry
    It depends on which part of your cord you moved around. If the end at the post, it's likely the connector/outlet in the post. Also check and see that there's no pitting or burn marks from arcing on the prongs on the connector on your cord. Otherwise, it's very rare for one of these heavy 50-amp power cords to go bad without some help (like getting run over by a vehicle).

    Rob
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  6. #46
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    Thanks Second chance. I will leave it be until I move; then how can I check the cord ground with an ohm meter?
    2015 Ram Tradesman 3500 DRW puck-B&W
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  7. #47
    Seasoned Camper
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    Re: Open Ground…as Second chance mentioned, it is likely a corroded surface either on your plug or the pedestal receptacle. I carry sandpaper and dielectric grease onboard to clean up my plug when i get that error.

    Re: Issue with cable…as mentioned this is very unlikely but as the cable ages the likelihood increases. Since it is intermittent you will have to narrow it down to a certain movement or position of the cable then stick an ohm meter on the ground pin (other side on trailer frame) and repeat the movement or position to see if it shows “open”.

  8. #48
    Site Team Second Chance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bjlakatos View Post
    Re: Open Ground…as Second chance mentioned, it is likely a corroded surface either on your plug or the pedestal receptacle. I carry sandpaper and dielectric grease onboard to clean up my plug when i get that error.

    Re: Issue with cable…as mentioned this is very unlikely but as the cable ages the likelihood increases. Since it is intermittent you will have to narrow it down to a certain movement or position of the cable then stick an ohm meter on the ground pin (other side on trailer frame) and repeat the movement or position to see if it shows “open”.
    If you really meant dielectric grease, it is silicone-based and does not conduct electricity. It is not meant for application directly on the mating surfaces of connectors. If it's labeled "electrically conductive," it's OK for that application.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ellen and Jerry View Post
    Thanks Second chance. I will leave it be until I move; then how can I check the cord ground with an ohm meter?
    Unplug your cable and use your ohmmeter to test continuity for each conductor between one end and the other. You should get readings of no more than a couple of ohms. Again - not the likely source of the issue.

    Rob
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    (Previously in a Reflection 337RLS)
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  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chad1383 View Post
    So we were camping this past weekend and I did what I swore i would never do....I bypassed my EMS unit. Got to the campground and plugged in and I couldn't even get 1 AC to stay on. Spoke to my neighbour and he was having the same issues except he didn't have a bypass option on his motorhome EMS. He told me the campground told him the power draw was so high that weekend that the amperage drop was enough to trip the EMS units. It was so bad the campground was refuelling his generator for him and allowed him to run it in the park (was pretty quiet though).

    I swore i would never do it and the manual says not to but they do give you the option of bypassing it. I ended up doing just that and ran all weekend with both AC's running and the trailer went from 90 degrees to low 70s in no time. Anyone else ever run into a situation where you had no choice but to bypass it? I was watching the weather and had any storms been rolling in I would have just unplugged the RV from the pedestal.

    CS
    Guilty...

    I did it this weekend in Perrin TX at Great Escapes.... voltage drops kept activating my EMS protection, finally after the camper got up to 82 I pulled it. I should have left, however we had the in-laws in cabins and yada yada yada.

    So yeah, I committed a felony!!!!

    By the way... I would have been okay leaving the in-laws there... My wife on the other hand.... well... lets just leave it at I stayed at the park!!!!
    Last edited by stumpfinder; 09-09-2021 at 10:54 AM.
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  10. #50
    Site Sponsor Jerryr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Second Chance View Post
    It depends on which part of your cord you moved around. If the end at the post, it's likely the connector/outlet in the post. Also check and see that there's no pitting or burn marks from arcing on the prongs on the connector on your cord. Otherwise, it's very rare for one of these heavy 50-amp power cords to go bad without some help (like getting run over by a vehicle).

    Rob

    If there’s burn marks on the prongs the plug is toast and should be replaced.

    My go to juice to revive poor connections (not heavily burnt) is ACF-50. https://www.amazon.com/ACF-50-Anti-C...dp/B000P1C8UO/ A little goes a long way. I keep a can at home and another in the RV. A squirt into a receptacle and on prongs can revive a poor electrical connection. I’ve been using it for almost 20 years on all types of electrical plugs to regain conductivity. It’s also great as a lubricant, penetrant and corrosion prevention, plus it smells good.

    I used it to revive an outdoor light switch that only worked 10% of the time. A squirt of ACF-50 and it has worked flawlessly for a year now. I used it on a friend’s aircraft radio Push To Talk switch 20 years ago where it was becoming increasingly intermittent. 20 years later it’s going strong and he still tells the story.

    Another chemical that works is detoxit. https://www.amazon.com/CAIG-D5S-6-Co...dp/B00I3G272M/

    And for connectors on car/trucks Ford XG-12 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NUBB28/
    Jerry & Linda
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