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  1. #11
    Rolling Along Tigger1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by baldy500 View Post
    2021 22MLE has the same issue at the bed. Likely the same concern. I’ll have to have a look and contact GD. I thought I’d mention here that mine has the same issue if folks are looking. Thanks for the info! It was very helpful!
    Thanks for mentioning that. The only time we’ve used our furnace is on our shake down trip when we bought in November. I think I remember only feeling a little heat from the bed duct. I’ll have to look more closely. It is a long run from where the furnace is located to the bed. The bathroom duct, however, will roast you.
    2010 Tundra SR5 DC 5.7L 4x4
    2020 Imagine XLS 22MLE
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  2. #12
    Setting Up Camp
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    Quote Originally Posted by EKellyjr123 View Post
    Quick update on my 17MKE. The dealer was able to get the underbelly off and found the duct work that feeds the bedroom had been reduced is size to 1 1/2” and had little airflow. Working with the folks at a Grand Design they made the following changes that appear to have solved the issue. First they sealed up around all the ducts at the bottom of the furnace. They installed another 1 1/2” run on the opposite side of the coach. There was no room next to the original run. They put in a y and connected to 2 runs before the vent. They also put a damper on the vent in the bathroom. This increased the com to the bedroom. I wanted to thank Ansley RV and Grand Design for their work to correct the problem. Much appreciated.
    Sorry to resurrect and old thread, but did they take any photos while the underbelly was off? I'm trying to install an electric heater to heat the underbelly so that I don't have to burn propane while on shore power and I would like to avoid dropping the whole underbelly if possible. Thanks!

  3. #13
    Setting Up Camp
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    May 2020
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    Toad River, Canada
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    Unbelievable!

    Quote Originally Posted by 29roadster View Post
    Had a similar problem with my 21BHE that I really like. In it, the furnace is located under the fridge. I took the interior panel off and found the back panel of the furnace where the hoses attached was bent out away from the furnace. Most of the heat just dumped out under the fridge. I straightened it and that fixed the problem.
    Minimum wage work force with no supervision.
    2020 Momentum 25G
    2011 RAM 2500 4x4 Megacab 6.7 Diesel

  4. #14
    Setting Up Camp
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    May 2020
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    Too bad all the extra work required instead of simply doing it right in the first place. GD seems to rely on users not discovering their terrible workmanship.
    2020 Momentum 25G
    2011 RAM 2500 4x4 Megacab 6.7 Diesel

  5. #15
    Long Hauler huntindog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thirdmillennium View Post
    Sorry to resurrect and old thread, but did they take any photos while the underbelly was off? I'm trying to install an electric heater to heat the underbelly so that I don't have to burn propane while on shore power and I would like to avoid dropping the whole underbelly if possible. Thanks!
    I would not want to do this. It woiuld be real easy to catch the coach on fire
    2021 398M Full Body Paint 8k axles. LRH tires. Disc brakes.
    Two bathrooms, no waiting 155 fresh, 104 black, 104 grey 1860 watts solar.
    800AH BattleBorn Batteries No campgrounds 100% boondocking
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  6. #16
    Setting Up Camp
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    Quote Originally Posted by huntindog View Post
    I would not want to do this. It woiuld be real easy to catch the coach on fire
    Not really, I'd be using a bilge/engine heater (300W) totally safe, in the underbelly or an inline vent heater in the cabin. No chance of anytime catching fire

  7. #17
    Long Hauler huntindog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thirdmillennium View Post
    Not really, I'd be using a bilge/engine heater (300W) totally safe, in the underbelly or an inline vent heater in the cabin. No chance of anytime catching fire
    300 watts will be about as noticable as a fart in a hurricane.

    On edit: Google is your friend;However, most bilge blowers are NOT designed for continuous use. They are designed to be run for a short while only. If you run them continuously you may burn them up or even start a fire
    Last edited by huntindog; 02-08-2023 at 05:20 PM.
    2021 398M Full Body Paint 8k axles. LRH tires. Disc brakes.
    Two bathrooms, no waiting 155 fresh, 104 black, 104 grey 1860 watts solar.
    800AH BattleBorn Batteries No campgrounds 100% boondocking
    2020 Silverado High Country 3500 dually crewcab Duramax Allison

  8. #18
    Setting Up Camp
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    Quote Originally Posted by huntindog View Post
    300 watts will be about as noticable as a fart in a hurricane.

    On edit: Google is your friend;However, most bilge blowers are NOT designed for continuous use. They are designed to be run for a short while only. If you run them continuously you may burn them up or even start a fire
    You seem quite knowledgeable, what's your recommendation for heating the underbelly electrically?

  9. #19
    Long Hauler huntindog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thirdmillennium View Post
    You seem quite knowledgeable, what's your recommendation for heating the underbelly electrically?
    It is not easy. I have installed AC powered heat tape on all of the plumbing after first wrapping the pex with heavy duty aluminum foil then pipe insulation over that. Heat pads on all tanks. Even that will require the furnace in very cold temps. We have had a fully functional coach @-12 degrees. I 'think" we could go to 40 below according to the heat tape brochure. Haven't had the opportunity to test it that cold. Beefing up the underbelly insulation WILL help a lot. I use polyisocronate insulation boards. 1" thick is R6.5. It is cheap and light. I put in as much as what will fit. It is labor intensive, as each piece needs to be cut and fitted to work around everything. I managed to get at least 2" everywhere, and up to 6" in some places.
    This mod will help the AC use in the summer and cut down on propane consumption in the winter. If you decide to do it, a concrete parking space and a creeper is a must.
    2021 398M Full Body Paint 8k axles. LRH tires. Disc brakes.
    Two bathrooms, no waiting 155 fresh, 104 black, 104 grey 1860 watts solar.
    800AH BattleBorn Batteries No campgrounds 100% boondocking
    2020 Silverado High Country 3500 dually crewcab Duramax Allison

  10. #20
    Setting Up Camp
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    Quote Originally Posted by huntindog View Post
    It is not easy. I have installed AC powered heat tape on all of the plumbing after first wrapping the pex with heavy duty aluminum foil then pipe insulation over that. Heat pads on all tanks. Even that will require the furnace in very cold temps. We have had a fully functional coach @-12 degrees. I 'think" we could go to 40 below according to the heat tape brochure. Haven't had the opportunity to test it that cold. Beefing up the underbelly insulation WILL help a lot. I use polyisocronate insulation boards. 1" thick is R6.5. It is cheap and light. I put in as much as what will fit. It is labor intensive, as each piece needs to be cut and fitted to work around everything. I managed to get at least 2" everywhere, and up to 6" in some places.
    This mod will help the AC use in the summer and cut down on propane consumption in the winter. If you decide to do it, a concrete parking space and a creeper is a must.
    Thanks for this detail...much appreciated. - the 12v heat pads are another option I was considering. May I ask what model you installed the above on? I have a 21' XLS 17MKE and I may be limited for space and weight of the polyisocronate insulation boards...Thankfully I live in North Texas and the lowest I've seen was a freakish 1F a couple of years ago!

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