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06-22-2019, 04:58 PM #11
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- Aug 2016
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- Henderson NV
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Ah, my apologies Jim, I misunderstood you. When you spoke of not being able to move just the center jacks, I took that to mean you can't move the set of 4 without the front moving also. Not including the front jacks, you are correct, you can't move the center (fore, meaning forward or towards the front) without the rear (aft, meaning after or to the rear) moving. Fore and aft are old military terms and I sometimes forget others might not understand the lingo. You see, I always considered the set of 4 as the center jacks because they are located in the center of the RV. In my mind, there are no rear jacks because there are none at the very back of the RV. I hope that clears things up...
John2018 Silverado LTZ 3500HD CC LB 4X4 DRW Duramax/Allison
2019 Momentum 381M w/Full Body Paint
2016 Can Am Spyder F3 Limited Special Series
2017 Can Am Outlander 1000 XT-P
2016 Wrangler Hard Rock Unlimited
1997 Bayliner Capri 1950 affectionately named Skinnydipper
MSgt, USAF (Ret)
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06-22-2019, 05:20 PM #12
- Join Date
- Mar 2015
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- Central Cal
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Thanks, got the fore and aft. It was all of them being “center” that was throwing me.
Jim (& Sharon)
2015 GD Momentum 385TH - SOLD
For Sale - 2015 Ford F-350 DRW 4x4 Lariat w/ AirLift bags, Titan 65 gal. OEM replacement fuel tank.
The toy:
2017 RZR XP 1000 EPS SE
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06-22-2019, 10:01 PM #13
I guess they don't enable it to discourage people like me who were using them to aid with getting the wheels off and holding the frame up to put jack stands in place. The 6 jacks are rated for 30k pounds in total per the LCI website but they adamantly tell you to not use them to "jack up" the trailer. Seems like mixed messaging to me. I used them to raise the trailer to a working height for getting the wheels off, and once I had that height in place, I deployed a pair of 6 ton jack stands on each side to "help" the leveling jacks. I did this with only the front and rear jacks as the middles were not workable.
I will add, it is incredibly annoying to do this work without the aid of those jacks as the trailer frame has to be positioned VERY high (like 24-25") in order to get the wheels off. This required 3-4 squares of 2x12 under each jack stand and a whole freaking stack of blocks under a 12 ton bottle jack to assist with lifting the frame (before I realized the leveling jacks were more than ample). You would think the heavy duty electric jacks with 2x the needed capacity bolted to the frame at 6 points would be best suited and safest for this task.....2019 GMC Sierra 3500HD Denali Diesel DRW (Crew Cab | 8 Ft bed | OEM Puck System | Curt Gooseneck Ball for OEM Puck | Timbrens on rear axle)
2019 Grand Design Solitude S-Class 3740BH-R Fifth Wheel (Onan 5500W LP Generator | MORryde CRE3000 and HD Shackles/Wet Bolts | 3x MORryde Cross Members | 8k Axles and Disc Brakes | Sailun S637 ST | Reese GooseBox 20k 2nd Gen | Splendide Stackable Washer and Dryer)
Full Suite of Victron Energy Products (2x 5k 24v Quattro Inverter/Charger | 2x 25.6/200 LFP Smart LiFePO4 Batteries | 2880w of Solar Panels across 4x MPPTs | Cerbo GX)
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06-23-2019, 07:36 AM #14
- Join Date
- Mar 2015
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- Central Cal
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I use mine for wheel maintenance all the time.
I think if the centers were movable by themselves you would have some bent frames from peeps not paying attention and trying to lift the trailer with the center only.Jim (& Sharon)
2015 GD Momentum 385TH - SOLD
For Sale - 2015 Ford F-350 DRW 4x4 Lariat w/ AirLift bags, Titan 65 gal. OEM replacement fuel tank.
The toy:
2017 RZR XP 1000 EPS SE
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06-26-2019, 02:42 PM #15
- Join Date
- Oct 2017
- Location
- Reno, NV
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The "Hitch Height" only works about 50% of the time. When it doesn't work, it aborts, causing me to have to go into my trailer and reset on the leveling LED. Any explanation as to what I am doing wrong?
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06-26-2019, 02:56 PM #16
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- Oct 2017
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If you just bought your unit and it won't auto level, the rear sensor is mounted backwards. On my 29RS, it's located behind the rear axle inside the belly pan, right in the center. You have to lower the spare to get to it.
-jj
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06-26-2019, 03:29 PM #17
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06-26-2019, 03:31 PM #18
- Join Date
- Feb 2017
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- On the road, retired
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It's sounds like various people use the auto reconnect to reconnect the 5th wheel at the height you unhooked at. My auto reconnect will only go up as high as when I push the button that says ground front jacks. After that I have to raise the front jacks another 3" or so to relieve pressure off the truck and the hitch to pull the truck out without it sliding downward quite a bit. Is there a way to program my auto reconnect so that it goes up to the position I had to raise it when I unhooked it?
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06-26-2019, 05:24 PM #19
- Join Date
- Nov 2018
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- Middle Georgia
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Originally Posted by [email protected]
Pull in to spot (or driveway) manually raise front with front jacks to unhitch height.
Unhitch.
Hit "auto level". 5er auto levels.
When Im ready to leave, I hit the auto reconnect and it raises it to the height it was at PRIOR to autolevel.
I don't use the ground front jacks during my unhitch process or auto reconnect process.
MikeIm Mike Willoughby, and I approve this message.
2017 Ram 3500 CTD (aka FRAM)
2019 Grand Design Reflection 367BHS
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06-26-2019, 05:51 PM #20
- Join Date
- Feb 2017
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- On the road, retired
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Thanks I'll try not using the ground jacks when un hooking.
Anyone Else Getting Tired of all...
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