Plastic Check Valve on Hot Water Tank 2020 350M

[traveldawg]

I've pretty much decided I am putting in a brass valve directly into the tank. Already ordered it from Amazon.

I reached out to Suburban for a recommendation and they suggested I ask a plumber. But they said those folks with brass have fewer issues than those with plastic (PVC I suppose).

I did a bit of hunting online about brass to steel and it seems to be somewhat compatible. Copper to just about anything else seems to be a real issue. So I figure I'm going with brass with Teflon tape directly into the steel tank.

Suburban uses glass-lined steel tanks. Atwood uses aluminum tanks. I have a Suburban.

Oh - I'll also be putting in an inexpensive water leak detector. I already have them behind my toilet and in my basement where the water pump is. What's one more.?

[dryfly]

I've pretty much decided I am putting in a brass valve directly into the tank. Already ordered it from Amazon.

I reached out to Suburban for a recommendation and they suggested I ask a plumber. But they said those folks with brass have fewer issues than those with plastic (PVC I suppose).

I did a bit of hunting online about brass to steel and it seems to be somewhat compatible. Copper to just about anything else seems to be a real issue. So I figure I'm going with brass with Teflon tape directly into the steel tank.

Suburban uses glass-lined steel tanks. Atwood uses aluminum tanks. I have a Suburban.

Oh - I'll also be putting in an inexpensive water leak detector. I already have them behind my toilet and in my basement where the water pump is. What's one more.?

Edit:

Looks like most valves have a male thread input. How about putting a brass male to female fitting in the output of the water heater, going to the male threads of the valve. That way if the brass adapter fitting corrodes itself to the water heater no problem. You can always get the brass valve off the brass adapter fitting and replace as needed.

I also did 2 water leak detectors. One under the water heater and one under the Nautilus panel. If they ever alarm I'm sure it will be at 3:00 AM..........

[tfgd21bhe]

How about putting a brass male to female fitting in the output of the water heater, going to the male threads of the valve. That way if the brass adapter fitting corrodes itself to the water heater no problem. You can always get the brass valve off the brass adapter fitting and replace as needed.
.

It won't be the brass fitting that corrodes. The steel or aluminum of the tank will corrode long before the brass fitting and you'll end up with leaks in the tank. The steel or aluminum of the tank is more anodic than brass and will sacrifice itself to protect the brass fitting.

[traveldawg]

I liked the idea @dryfly had. Then @tfgd21bhe blew that out of the water. (pun intended )

I tried to find a CPVC adapter like dryfly suggested but cannot find one.

I was wondering if because there is a magnesium sacrificial rod in the Suburban tank if that will prevent corrosion of the brass to steel connection.

[MoonShadow_1911]

I liked the idea @dryfly had. Then @tfgd21bhe blew that out of the water. (pun intended )

I tried to find a CPVC adapter like dryfly suggested but cannot find one.

I was wondering if because there is a magnesium sacrificial rod in the Suburban tank if that will prevent corrosion of the brass to steel connection.

It will slow down the galvatic reaction, but it won't halt it. Me, I figured I'll take my chance, then in the years or so, replace the water heater. Maybe...

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[tfgd21bhe]

I liked the idea @dryfly had. Then @tfgd21bhe blew that out of the water. (pun intended )

I tried to find a CPVC adapter like dryfly suggested but cannot find one.

I was wondering if because there is a magnesium sacrificial rod in the Suburban tank if that will prevent corrosion of the brass to steel connection.

A magnesium anode will protect both the brass fitting and steel or aluminum tank as it is more anodic than either of the other materials. My aluminum boat used magnesium anodes and I kept a bread loaf sized block of magnesium to hang over the side when I needed extra protection while docked.

Just be sure to monitor the anode to make sure it isn't consumed. I'd replace when it gets to about half of its original size.

[dryfly]

It won't be the brass fitting that corrodes. The steel or aluminum of the tank will corrode long before the brass fitting and you'll end up with leaks in the tank. The steel or aluminum of the tank is more anodic than brass and will sacrifice itself to protect the brass fitting.

We are running out of options here!

The CPVC solution is possible with adapters from big box stores, but it seems there is a question as to hot water use because threads are involved in the fittings. I called two manufacturers of fittings, one said no problem to 180 degrees, the other said may work for one month or 10 years but they did not recommend CPVC threaded fittings with hot water.

My heater is Dometic with no sacrificial rod, so I assume it must be an aluminum tank. If the threads were aluminum I could get an aluminum nipple to connect but I assume they are steel. If steel, could a galvanized pipe nipple be used, then go to brass?

So, now we are down to 3 possibilities: keep using plastic valves, take a chance with CPVC, use brass and hope it doesn't destroy the tank in a reasonable amount of time.

[tfgd21bhe]

No, you need a non-conducting fitting between the brass valve and the aluminum tank or a magnesium anode. I used a nylon nipple when I added a drain valve in place of the plastic drain plug on my water heater. You could use a nylon nipple and then a brass female to female fitting and then the brass check valve. That's what I plan to do when I have to replace my check valve.

[dryfly]

No, you need a non-conducting fitting between the brass valve and the aluminum tank or a magnesium anode. I used a nylon nipple when I added a drain valve in place of the plastic drain plug on my water heater. You could use a nylon nipple and then a brass female to female fitting and then the brass check valve. That's what I plan to do when I have to replace my check valve.

Here is one that might work:

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...ple-1-2-in-mpt

The manufacturer of this product rates it for 167 F at 75 psi. Any idea as to the temp our water heaters put out, as I don't know if all nylon fittings are rated high enough??

[tfgd21bhe]

from a CPSC page

Most adults will suffer third-degree burns if exposed to 150 degree water for two seconds.

That should be fine. Another option that we used on the aluminum boats was Tef-Gel to help minimize corrosion around stainless screws into the aluminum deck and hull. Isolating is better but Tef-Gel helps if you want to use the brass valve directly screwed into the tank.