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Thread: Battery options

  1. #31
    Rolling Along
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    Quote Originally Posted by MoonShadow_1911 View Post
    I corrected my statement, which was wrong.
    All good. So the answer is get whatever FLA I want. I understand the series thing.
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  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by docque View Post
    All good. So the answer is get whatever FLA I want. I understand the series thing.
    Yes. [emoji4] I really shouldn't try to think when I'm tired.
    Mark & Mary. Full-timing across the USA (and Canada)!
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    Quote Originally Posted by docque View Post
    Should I get the exact same battery or same type? In other words It is an Interstate SRM-24. I see other brands that are SRM-24. Or is it a naming thing that doesn't really tell you much?
    When building a battery bank with Lead Acid batteries, it is recommended that you get matched batteries. You want to use the same batteries and have the manufacture dates be as close together as possible. This is because Lead Acid batteries deteriorate over time and batteries with different electrical capabilities will not perform well when paired together.

    In your case matching the manufacture dates is probably not possible, however I would try to buy the same battery from the same manufacturer. Since your trailer is almost new, you could drop in a new Interstate battery with the same model number and probably be okay.

    However, if you do want to upgrade to a pair of 6 volt batteries, or buy a battery with higher ah capacity, I would recommend you purchase a pair of batteries.
    David and Peggy
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  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by docque View Post
    All good. So the answer is get whatever FLA I want. I understand the series thing.
    My preference with parallel configurations is to use the same type batteries.
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  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corky2 View Post
    Connecting the RV to a battery bank depends on how the battery bank is configured.

    A battery bank configured in parallel results in all the positive posts connected together and all the negative posts connected together. This configuration increased battery bank electrical storage capacity but voltage remains the same. It does not matter if you connect the RV positive cable on one battery and the negative cable on another because all the positive posts are connected together and all the negative posts are connected together...



    USAF Tactical Air Command at Holloman AFB New Mexico.
    I disagree that it does not matter which terminal you connect the camper to in a paralleled battery configuration.

    In a study on paralleled batteries, (sited elsewhere in the forum) it was determined that if the load (camper) was connected to a single battery, then that battery received the bulk of the voltage drop associated with the load. Conversely, if one terminal from the load was attached to the battery at the front of a battery bank and the other terminal from the load was attached to the battery at the end of the battery bank, each battery in the bank shared the load more evenly (not perfectly, but more evenly). The best method to connect multiple batteries in parallel is to attach each battery to common buss bars and attach the load to the bus bars.

    In the OP's situation, it would be acceptable to attach the positive lead (from the camper) to one battery and the negative lead (from the camper) to the other battery.
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  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by docque View Post
    Should I get the exact same battery or same type? In other words It is an Interstate SRM-24.
    As others have pointed out, that battery is designed for starting your vehicle, not for long-term storage. I'm no battery expert, but you might be better off switching to batteries that were designed for RV use. If you were going to go that route (upgrade), I'd suggest an AGM might suit your needs, no fumes and it can be discharged further than a lead-acid (lead-acid batteries should not be discharged to more than 50% of their capacity or long term damage could occur). I've had good luck in the past with these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1RT58C A bit pricier than a cheap LA, but it lasts a lot longer and more of the capacity can be used.
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    Ok, thanks for the info. It has been a while since I have done the battery thing. That is why I thought it was strange that you connected the cables from the camper to one battery. I know if you go more than two it gets into different things but no need to discuss that now. I do eventually want to go to Lithium but that require a little more than swapping batteries. I may just deal with one for now and upgrade over time. I am sure I will do my usual thing and forget about the battery and leave it out in Winter. I am always buying new batteries for the mower every spring.
    Upstate NY
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  8. #38
    Site Sponsor Jerryr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by docque View Post
    …….I do eventually want to go to Lithium but that require a little more than swapping batteries. I may just deal with one for now and upgrade over time.
    For new build Grand Design campers with preinstalled solar it’s a simple task to go Lithium. The trailer will already have a converter/charger capable to be configured to properly charge LITHIUM batteries.
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  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Soundsailor View Post
    As others have pointed out, that battery is designed for starting your vehicle, not for long-term storage. I'm no battery expert, but you might be better off switching to batteries that were designed for RV use. If you were going to go that route (upgrade), I'd suggest an AGM might suit your needs, no fumes and it can be discharged further than a lead-acid (lead-acid batteries should not be discharged to more than 50% of their capacity or long term damage could occur). I've had good luck in the past with these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1RT58C A bit pricier than a cheap LA, but it lasts a lot longer and more of the capacity can be used.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jerryr View Post
    For new build Grand Design campers with preinstalled solar it’s a simple task to go Lithium. The trailer will already have a converter/charger capable to be configured to properly charge LITHIUM batteries.
    If you are considering going with AGM batteries, I would strongly urge you to consider upgrading to Lithium batteries instead. There are some very good LiFePO4 batteries available from Amazon with very decent prices that will provide you with better service than a pair of AGM batteries.

    Specifically, there are several 100ah batteries between $359 and $399 that you can just drop in to replace your existing battery. One of the better battery brands is Ampere Time, this battery has been torn down by Will Prose on YouTube and he had very good things to say about the build quality.

    As far as you needing to upgrade your Converter, since you have a newer coach, your Converter may be "lithium Capable" and all you have to do is flick a switch. If not, your Solar Charge Controller is definitely Lithium Capable and all you have to do is flick a switch.

    So, in your case, (if your Converter is not "Lithium Capable") your Converter will be able to charge your new Lithium battery to around 60% (which is more energy storage than you currently have) and your Solar System will kick in to charge your new Lithium battery to 100%. Consequently, there is no compelling reason to upgrade your Converter right away.

    There are however several advantages to upgrading to Lithium now instead of in the future.

    Lithium batteries are just so, so, much better than any Lead Acid battery...

    They Charge Faster

    They weigh less

    They Last Longer

    You can discharge them down to 0% if needed (the internal BMS will protect the internal batteries from being damaged by a deep discharge).

    They are much cheaper in the long run because you don't have to constantly replace them (try replacing your Lawn Mower battery with a Lithium battery next time).

    The list of advantages goes on and on...
    Last edited by SolarPoweredRV; 05-25-2022 at 04:57 PM.
    David and Peggy
    2019 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.7L Diesel, Dually, Long Bed
    Running with 20k Reese Goosebox (Love It) and Ford Factory "Puck" system.
    Stopping with 8,000 lb Disc Brakes and Titan Hydraulic over Electric Brakes system.
    Powering all this fun with 1200 Watts of Solar, two Tesla, Model S, battery modules, 24 volt Victron Inverter.
    2018 Solitude 310 GK

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by docque View Post
    Ok, thanks for the info. It has been a while since I have done the battery thing. That is why I thought it was strange that you connected the cables from the camper to one battery. I know if you go more than two it gets into different things but no need to discuss that now. I do eventually want to go to Lithium but that require a little more than swapping batteries. I may just deal with one for now and upgrade over time. I am sure I will do my usual thing and forget about the battery and leave it out in Winter. I am always buying new batteries for the mower every spring.
    Generally it is fine to leave the battery outside in the winter as long as it is properly charged. Using a NOCO GENIUS1, 1-Amp Fully-Automatic Smart Charger (about $31) or similar on the battery all the time maintains it well and will even charge the battery but is slow. The solar panel that you have maybe fine also in the winter but do not use the camper converter/power center too much to store battery.

    I believe that a it is actually much harder on the battery when it is very hot outside and the battery/enclosure is in full sun. This is especially true with a non temperature compensated charger like the camper has (likely both the solar if it does not have external temperature probe and AC power center). I cover the top of my battery case with aluminized foam to keep it cooler from the summer sun.
    Last edited by TimtheToolMan; 05-25-2022 at 04:59 PM.

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