Wiring Refrig to run on interverter while driving

[mhaasser]

We updated our 2800BH with 2 100AH lithium batteries, a 2000 watt inverter, and a lithium charger to replace the one on the trailer. We did this so we could travel with propane off. We get about 8 hours running the fridge. We Make sure we start out with it cold on shore AC. The last thing we do is turn on the inverter before we leave. We put this under the bed in the master.

[Widget]

I put in two Lions Energy 105AH batteries with an inverter and wired in half of my breaker box which has the fridge on it. If I put the inverter on and the fridge on auto it will run. It pulls about 30AH when i look at the battery monitor which gives my 6 plus hours which is enough for most of what i would be doing.

Regarding propane, I blew a tire on the rig which took out the gas line to the hot water heater. I did not notice this until we hooked up at a site and i smelled gas after I opened the tanks. I prefer to not run with propane on.

But I need to remember to put it on propane when camped and boondocking.

Yep had the same experience. I had so much damage from the tire had to replace the stove years ago.
I am also hoping to run frig about 6hrs.

[Widget]

You are right. We have looked at the cost to the setup VS just buying a compressor frig.

[Widget]

My gosh.... this thread is all over the place... Good discussion tho.....

The OP said he wanted an inverter to run his frig to "...run down the road...'. So all this stuff about batteries, DC to DC converters and such seem to me to be kind a mute point. The tow vehicle will provide enough charge to any good battery bank to keep the RV batteries functioning while under way. Yea - maybe need 2 batteries instead of one for a bit of reserve (maybe), but no need for solar, Lithium and banks and bank of batteries.

Once he is on shore power then he can continue on electric or switch to propane if wanted.

I'm not getting into the whole propane regulation "thing" while traveling.

Yep, so far I have managed to draw all the site sponsors in without even trying. I have to say, seasoned perspectives are a treasure. I've gotten so many cool ideas from this forum.

[Widget]

I'm looking at converting my Dometic cold box to an AC compressor. Cost for the conversion system is about $640 plus $90 shipping. Uses 0.8 amp hour with 60% cycle time. Running the factory setup on AC, it's about 400 Watts. Or for about $100 plus shipping, I can go with a pure DC compressor system which runs at 7.5A hour 12v with 65% cycle time. No propane and you don't have to be level.

With my system of 1600W solar and 525AH Lion Energy Safari UT-1300 batteries (5 batteries), we should not have any issues for extended boondocking. A lot less work then you will be looking at, no propane hookup, and no issues with going up/down steep slopes, being off level on site and able to run the refrig colder than the factory in hotter weather than the factory setup. And I can keep my ice cream at or below zero without an issue.H

I see your point-good ideas.

[Widget]

We updated our 2800BH with 2 100AH lithium batteries, a 2000 watt inverter, and a lithium charger to replace the one on the trailer. We did this so we could travel with propane off. We get about 8 hours running the fridge. We Make sure we start out with it cold on shore AC. The last thing we do is turn on the inverter before we leave. We put this under the bed in the master.

That's what I am talking about. You even have the same model we have.

[more tired since retired]

I see your point-good ideas.

I did add some additional information to my post on conversion. I did neglect to include the manufacturer of the conversion does installs at their site for $250. Prices will vary for the conversion unit depending on your model of refrigerator. If you would like contact information, let me know. Warranty is 3 years on the unit with an additional 3 years available for purchase (6 years total).

And I'm not connected in any way with the manufacturer, just it was suggested by the business that installed my solar system.

[Widget]

You got a really good deal. Where did you go? I live in Florida so might be too far for me.

[powerscol]

My gosh.... this thread is all over the place... Good discussion tho.....

The OP said he wanted an inverter to run his frig to "...run down the road...'. So all this stuff about batteries, DC to DC converters and such seem to me to be kind a mute point. The tow vehicle will provide enough charge to any good battery bank to keep the RV batteries functioning while under way. Yea - maybe need 2 batteries instead of one for a bit of reserve (maybe), but no need for solar, Lithium and banks and bank of batteries.

Once he is on shore power then he can continue on electric or switch to propane if wanted.

I'm not getting into the whole propane regulation "thing" while traveling.

Good morning Larry.
Hopefully you don't mind my disagreement on one point. When traveling the normal charge amperage from the TV is about 8 amps, On my 04 it was more like 6 amps (actually measured) Thats all the typical 10awg wire in the pigtail can handle. Now maybe the new trucks put out more, but even if it was say 12A it is still not enough for powering the AC loads to run the fridge for 8 hours.

That's why I am installing a 60A DC-DC charger and wiring my new TV with 2AWG to power it independent of the TV pigtail. That coupled with my solar should just keep up with my fridge with a bit to spare if I decide to travel using AC power. MY MultiPlus is wired to provide inverter power to the whole trailer as I only have a 30A service.
@Widget
The engineer in me just can't see the OP's proposed system working as he wishes. If it does not there are other solutions at least. Running the fridge off of an inverter on AC can be done.

Just a different thought here.

Merry Christmas and the best for the New Year
Keith

[traveldawg]

Good morning Larry.
Hopefully you don't mind my disagreement on one point. When traveling the normal charge amperage from the TV is about 8 amps, On my 04 it was more like 6 amps (actually measured) Thats all the typical 10awg wire in the pigtail can handle. Now maybe the new trucks put out more, but even if it was say 12A it is still not enough for powering the AC loads to run the fridge for 8 hours.

That's why I am installing a 60A DC-DC charger and wiring my new TV with 2AWG to power it independent of the TV pigtail. That coupled with my solar should just keep up with my fridge with a bit to spare if I decide to travel using AC power. MY MultiPlus is wired to provide inverter power to the whole trailer as I only have a 30A service.
@Widget
The engineer in me just can't see the OP's proposed system working as he wishes. If it does not there are other solutions at least. Running the fridge off of an inverter on AC can be done.

Just a different thought here.

Merry Christmas and the best for the New Year
Keith

No problem, Keith. That's what the forum is for - passing around ideas and learning.

Before I put in about 400 amps of AGM batteries I ran for about 4 or 5 hours on the 2 wet cells the rig came with and never had an issue, but I have a residential, so maybe the power usage is different.

In keeping with the different ideas theme.... I'm not too much of a fan of solar. I figure when I need it the most the sun won't be out. So I rely on a couple of Honda 2000's which I've had forever.

Widget has his work cut out figure out what direction to go in.
@Widget
Hey Widget - where are you in FL? I've over on the Space Coast on the northern end.