Check Valve Broke and cannot thread in!

[dryfly]

The main problem with using a tap to clean the threads is the length of the tap. It bottoms out on the bung before it gets thorough the threads. One could take a standard tap and grind off about at least an 1/2" and then it might work.

The tool mentioned by flystar looks, IMO, to be a good choice for the job.

OK, I see what you are saying about the tap. The Orbit Extractor was mentioned in another thread and it's nothing more than an EzOut type tool. If the OP has already got the valve out of the bung, and there are only residual parts of plastic left, I don't think it's going to solve his problem, but might be worth a try.

Also, it was mentioned that if the plastic valve breaks off during removal leaving the remaining body of the valve in the bung, the EZ Out type tools just seem to grind away at the plastic unlike being able to bite into metal.

[Hoopy Frood]

OK, I see what you are saying about the tap. The Orbit Extractor was mentioned in another thread and it's nothing more than an EzOut type tool. If the OP has already got the valve out of the bung, and there are only residual parts of plastic left, I don't think it's going to solve his problem, but might be worth a try.

Also, it was mentioned that if the plastic valve breaks off during removal leaving the remaining body of the valve in the bung, the EZ Out type tools just seem to grind away at the plastic unlike being able to bite into metal.

I partially agree, but when ours broke off there was a substantial amount of the plastic valve left in the tank. I think the extractor would easily have driven into the plastic enough to remove it. But, not having the tool, or an EZOut on hand, I cannot offer anything other than my opinion.

[traveldawg]

@Mtnhound

The idea above about chasing the treads with a tap or an easy out tool is a real good idea. Although it seems if you can get good access to the tank's outlet you should be able to remove any remaining material that may be stuck. To clean thing that falls into the tank when cleaning those threads you can flush the tank after the repair is made.

There is PLENTY of discussion on this forum about using brass into the Suburban steel tank and the pros/cons of using a plastic check valve vs. a brass valve vs. some other material. All with no final concensus. There is also a lot of discussion in general on the internet - again no real good final decision or consensus that seems to stick out other than brass is much better than any kind of plastic/PVC/etc.

Plastic valves break, so it probably isn't a good idea to use one.

Suburban threads copper blow-off valves into the tank - so it seems their conclusion is brass into their tanks is OK.

PVC and CPVC is not recommended for direct threading into a hot water heater so that idea doesn't float. (probably why the PVC/plastic check valves bread all the time).

I've never seen a dielectric type coupling for the check valve location although if you can find one it is a good idea.

You won't likely find any dielectric valve or a check valves other than plastic (PVC?) or brass. So here is my solution. My logic is that it is a steel to steel connection at the tank and if any galvanic corrosion occurs I can toss the whole elbow and valve and replace with similar (although I don't expect any more troubles from this area of the rig).

[geotex1]

geotex1. I ordered a 1/2” dielectric nipple, a brass coupling, and brass check valve for my parts kit. Does this sound about right to you?

Yep, either coupling or elbow. Just depends on the space behind the water heater.

[geotex1]

How does a dielectric pipe nipple work? There appears to be a non-conductive liner but the outside seems to be just conductive galvanized steel, which would provide an electrical path from one material to the other. I've used them on residential water heaters but really never given them a thought.

Without direct contact of water between the incompatible metals, you don't have a cell.

[geotex1]

Galvanic potential is not a mystery, and the charts are widely available in basic materials textbooks, good plumbing guides, etc. There are several evaluation systems out there too that have been around for nearly 100 years (AWWA). The internet is a great resource, but there are keyboard engineers and scientists and then there are those of who are in real life and practicing. Point being, you don't have to rely on crowd sourced information on forums when you can reference authoritative texts, standards, professional journals, etc. for guidance.

Now for the broken portion of the valve, a heat gun and a large, flat screwdriver are your friend. Heat the bung till quite hot along with the screwdriver. Press the screwdriver into any plastic you can. Firmly but not forcefully. Let things cool a bit and then twist. Most will come right out. If it's so there's nothing to bite with a screwdriver, you'll need a pick and needle nose pliers. Heat it up very hot, use the pick to deform an area out of the thread such that it can be grabbed with the pliers.

[Hoopy Frood]

Heating up very hot with a torch is a bit of an issue when the port is surrounded by styrofoam, and close quarter wiring. That would work well in an open environment. I couldn't do it in my very close quarter area around my water heater.

[geotex1]

Heating up very hot with a torch is a bit of an issue when the port is surrounded by styrofoam, and close quarter wiring. That would work well in an open environment. I couldn't do it in my very close quarter area around my water heater.

Definitely not an open flame torch. A heat gun pointed right at the bung. If you have a friend that's a savvy mechanic, tell him or her to come with their induction heater and you'll be finished the repair in little time.

[imrvman]

I had the same problem a couple of weeks ago in cold weather conditions. I wish I saw this thread at that time as it could have saved me a bunch of time and worries.

In my case I saw a bit of a leak at the plastic plug and tried to tighten it thinking it was not tight enough and then SNAP; the plastic head was gone. It took me 2 days to sort out how to get it out. I couldn't find an E-Z out tool where I was camped, and it wouldn't have worked anyways as the plastic is slippery so no friction. In the end I got a small wood chisel, chipped away until the plastic was very thin and an edge was created, then took needle nose pliers and grabbed the edge and twisted it out. I was extremely careful to make sure the chisel didn't gouge the threads. After getting it out I cleaned the threads as best I could with my finger. I used a new brass plug instead of plastic and had much difficulty threading it in as there was still some bits plastic left and plumbers tape left in the threads. It took a few tries of threading in and backing out to remove the leftover bits from the threads but I managed to get it in. I think the brass plug to steel threads also had something to do with it being difficult to thread in.

I hadn't thought about the dissimilar metals reacting so will need to address that in the spring. At this point I'm still camped in Whistler in below freezing temperatures so will live with any problems for now.

Hope you are successful in getting the new plug in.

[deerislandbrew]

We have a 2020 GD solitude and the belly has a good amount of water this afternoon. We removed the wall panel that covers the hot water tank. The hot water tank valve was a steady flow of water coming from around it. When unscrewing it the check valve piece broke with plastic shreds staying in the the threading to the actual tank. This is a Suburban water heater tank. After trying to clean out the threads and replacing the plastic check valve with a brass 1/2” check valve won’t thread in. The other concern is there seems to be an o ring in the actual female part and were not sure if that’s broken inside or supposed to be in there.

I just went through that same situation a few weeks ago. Buy a 1/2" NPT tap, to clean the residual plastic out of there. I 1st cut slots in the plastic thread stuck in the tank bung, then pried some out with a screw driver, then melted and scored more of it with a soldering iron. Pain in the ****** job. After removing as much as you can, then run the tap in just like you would if you were tapping metal. That is how I cleaned mine. A thread extractor tool didn't work at all. Be sure to flush your tank a couple times to clear debris before putting it back together. I bought an aluminum elbow for mine, followed by a PVC fitting, then a brass check valve to avoid dissimilar metal corrosion.