Renogy 3k Invertor - budget build

[Jomani]

I have been doing a lot of reading on this forum and other sources, looking for a budget boon docking solution. My primary objective is to be able to pull over while traveling and have access to make lunch (living area slides, microwave, etc.). I also want to be able to take advantage of Harvest Host sites (overnight without hookups). I rely heavily on a CPAP machine.

Since our Reflection 303RLS came with the inverter prep, I plan to use the existing wiring. The debate I was having with myself was inverter size - 2k or 3k. I was ready to pull the trigger on on a Renogy 2k inverter and did one last Internet search looking for the best price when I came across a Renogy 3k at Lowe’s for $150 less than anyone else. (Link here). Needless to say, I jumped on it.

Here is what I have coming:
Renogy 3k inverter
Renogy 60amp Dc to Dc Charger (my truck has dual 220 amp alternators - 440 amp output)
Progressive Dynamics 60 amp lithium compatible charger

Here is what I currently have:
Stock solar charger (also have a Renogy solar charger from another project)
Stock solar panel
200 ah LiFePo4 generic battery
100’ of 4awg pure copper welding cable
2 battery disconnect switches (one for the battery and one for the solar)
100 amp and 80 amp fuses for the Dc to Dc charger
2 300amp bus bars

Still need:
Shunt / battery monitor
Fuse for the Dc side of the inverter
Battery cable for the inverter

I plan to run the Dc to Dc charger from an auxiliary switch in the truck to charge the battery while driving. What else do I need? Not sure how the inverter prep is wired - do I need an automatic or manual switch for the inverter?

Joe

[Soundsailor]

What else do I need? Not sure how the inverter prep is wired - do I need an automatic or manual switch for the inverter?

Joe

See my post here (https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...l=1#post448518) for info on the inverter prep. I would recommend an ATS (automatic transfer switch) for the inverter. If your 303RLS is wired like my rig, the inverter only powers a subset of the circuits, I've done fine with a 15 AMP ATS. BTW, we also went with the Renogy 3,000-watt, it has performed well for us. It can even handle the Air Conditioner if you have adequate battery capacity (125 AH per hour to run AC).

Also, 4 AWG may be OK for some parts of your project, but you'll need 4|0 for the inverter, the draw could be around 300 AMPS at full capacity.

[Harvestmoon]

Suggest you check what your battery is rated for discharge rate to verify it can handle that kind of amps.

[Soundsailor]

Suggest you check what your battery is rated for discharge rate to verify it can handle that kind of amps.

Good point, a single battery may have its output limited by the BMS. We have 4 200 Ah batteries, each able to put out 100 Amps. Together they have more than enough discharge capacity to handle the 300 Amps the inverter is capable of drawing.

[COGrandDes]

I have been doing a lot of reading on this forum and other sources, looking for a budget boon docking solution. My primary objective is to be able to pull over while traveling and have access to make lunch (living area slides, microwave, etc.). I also want to be able to take advantage of Harvest Host sites (overnight without hookups). I rely heavily on a CPAP machine.

Since our Reflection 303RLS came with the inverter prep, I plan to use the existing wiring. The debate I was having with myself was inverter size - 2k or 3k. I was ready to pull the trigger on on a Renogy 2k inverter and did one last Internet search looking for the best price when I came across a Renogy 3k at Lowe’s for $150 less than anyone else. (Link here). Needless to say, I jumped on it.

Here is what I have coming:
Renogy 3k inverter
Renogy 60amp Dc to Dc Charger (my truck has dual 220 amp alternators - 440 amp output)
Progressive Dynamics 60 amp lithium compatible charger

Here is what I currently have:
Stock solar charger (also have a Renogy solar charger from another project)
Stock solar panel
200 ah LiFePo4 generic battery
100’ of 4awg pure copper welding cable
2 battery disconnect switches (one for the battery and one for the solar)
100 amp and 80 amp fuses for the Dc to Dc charger
2 300amp bus bars

Still need:
Shunt / battery monitor
Fuse for the Dc side of the inverter
Battery cable for the inverter

I plan to run the Dc to Dc charger from an auxiliary switch in the truck to charge the battery while driving. What else do I need? Not sure how the inverter prep is wired - do I need an automatic or manual switch for the inverter?

Joe

Here are some things that I did for my budget build and it works great. I just recently added 400w more to my existing Furrion 165w solar panel and added in a circuit breaker in the front to disable those panels if I want to work on them. For my ATS...I was not comfortable with the 15A one that I started with and upgraded to a 30A just to be sure everything was protected and reliable.

Here is my post with pictures.......https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...834#post460834

[Jomani]

Suggest you check what your battery is rated for discharge rate to verify it can handle that kind of amps.

Good point. The max continuous output from my battery is 100 amps which is why I originally opted for a 2k inverter. Since the 3k was only $40 more, I went that route to allow for expansion later if needed. While I certainly have no expectations of running an air conditioner, I think I can safely run what I need off a single battery, and have the option of running the truck with Dc to Dc charger to gain an additional 60 amps (160 total) for short periods of time.

[RubiconMike]

I did a similar upgrade to a 30a system in my old Class A. I added a Renogy 3000W inverter and an automatic transfer switch rated at 64a (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XZ266CY/) with lithium batteries. I set it up so that when you turned the inverter on, the transfer switch would switch the 110v circuits from shore power to the inverter. With the inverter off when shore power was plugged in it would switch back. The Renogy was nice because it had a remote on/off switch that I mounted inside next to the electrical panel.