Who has had Brass bushing issues on their CRE3000 suspension

**Overtaxed** · 03-08-2023, 06:20 PM

Originally Posted by geotex1

Larry, that is not correct. With CRE3000s and the spring hangers ALL X-factors bolt on via the wet bolts and then have an additional clamping plate to prevent rotation. Only an SRE4000 X-factor does not bolt via wet bolt for standard hangers. Correct tracks are another matter, but not relative to GD. The mounting graphics are in the brochure you linked, and the first couple pages for the standard.

Pretty sure my SR4000 is bolted, in the middle, all the way through, including the X-Factor.

STEP 3 Replace stock equalizer with SRE 4000. Reinstall shackle links and
tighten shackle link nuts. Replace shoulder bolt with wet bolt (shoulder bolt
w/ grease zerk) included in installation kit. The bolt should point toward the
inside of the trailer. Do not install nut until next step.
STEP 4 Slide cross member half with slots over the end of the wet bolt and
thread the nut on without tightening. The open end of the channel should point
down

**geotex1** · 03-09-2023, 07:29 AM

@Overtaxed, I believe you're correct. The only one I've handled personally in that flavor was MORryde's OE version for Jayco. Oh man, did our friends do a number on that Pinnacle too!!

**dryfly** · 03-09-2023, 08:44 AM

When did the X-Factor design change? When I installed one on my center equalizer bracket about 2 years ago, the tube had the bracket that attached to the hanger welded on the end of the tube. Now it appears the bracket is a separate piece, and bolts to the tube.

For those that have installed this new design, does it seem to be as efficient?

Also, when the new design is installed on the front and rear spring ends does the zerk fitting on the wet bolt have to face the outside of the frame?

**geotex1** · 03-09-2023, 09:11 AM

Originally Posted by dryfly

When did the X-Factor design change? When I installed one on my center equalizer bracket about 2 years ago, the tube had the bracket that attached to the hanger welded on the end of the tube. Now it appears the bracket is a separate piece, and bolts to the tube.

For those that have installed this new design, does it seem to be as efficient?

Also, when the new design is installed on the front and rear spring ends does the zerk fitting on the wet bolt have to face the outside of the frame?

It was late last year and plenty of the original design still in retail inventory.
It resulted from there being way too many campers with drain and LP pipes in the way and then need to remove for repairs within the underbelly. So what they have done was SKU rationalization in that all models now use the same adjustable crossover channels but the end brackets vary with standard, drop, etc. It's a lot easier to install and remove the new style! Cut production cost with most now having no welds and how the kept price close to pre-pandemic pricing even though steel went sky high in price.

Their intention is that the zerks are outboard since the knurled shaft should be set into the hangers and not the X-factor hardware. If you need to pull the brace for underbelly repair, you don't want to have a spring or equalizer hanging.

**dryfly** · 03-09-2023, 11:10 AM

@geotex1

OK, that sounds efficient and I'm sure the end results are the same as far as stability. After putting the brace on my center supports hangers, I have never got around to installing on the spring end hangers. My 150 series is light and I have the newer hangers that are wider at the top where welded to the frame. I may need to reconsider.

After your info I think I might actually prefer the new design.

**Boogiejack75** · 03-11-2023, 04:14 PM

Originally Posted by geotex1

@msutoad, greetings fellow engineer! OK, first thing first, on your parts bags those are GD P/Ns, which change surprisingly frequently. The numbers you want to pay attention too are those in the lower left corner below the bar code. The righthand bag is a Lippert-supplied bushing and the right is a Dexter-supplied bushing. Standard P/Ns for each. These are both sintered bronze, and Dexter follows an internal specification that they won't share but I believe is close to SAE 841 material. At last I knew for spec, Lippert buys open market, Asia-produced bearings. There are several grades of bronze slightly magnetic, and in sintered you can have different additions. I move to SAE 660 bushings that I had sourced directly from manufacturer.

Is it consistently with that equalizer but a different bushing in it each time? If so, I'd focus on checking if there is to much side-to-side or rotational play.

I am a Mechanical Engineer with 40+ years of heavy manufacturing experience. This is my opinion.

There is no reason to have sintered bronze in this application as it is externally lubed with grease. Sintered/ oil impregnated bronze is used in applications that do not have external lubrication. Sintered bronze is also not as strong compared to cast bronze.

When we wanted a really strong bronze bushing, we would go with an aluminum bronze. Not cheap, but very strong. At a minimum, I would go SAE 660.

I would think that McMaster Carr or Motion Industries could source a correct bushing for you.

Just my opinion.

Good luck!

**msutoad** · 03-11-2023, 04:17 PM

Originally Posted by Boogiejack75

I am a Mechanical Engineer with 40+ years of heavy manufacturing experience. This is my opinion.

There is no reason to have sintered bronze in this application as it is externally lubed with grease. Sintered/ oil impregnated bronze is used in applications that do not have external lubrication. Sintered bronze is also not as strong compared to cast bronze.

When we wanted a really strong bronze bushing, we would go with an aluminum bronze. Not cheap, but very strong. At a minimum, I would go SAE 660.

I would think that McMaster Carr or Motion Industries could source a correct bushing for you.

Just my opinion.

Good luck!

thanks for that information/opinion. I’ll keep everyone informed as to what MorRyde says this week

**Super_Design_16_21** · 04-02-2023, 07:58 PM

Originally Posted by msutoad

I am having discussions with MorRyde on the Brass bushings prematurely wearing out even when greased properly. I have confirmed weights (from the scales) and all the suspensions measurements. So I am wondering how many on here have replaced their bushings and how many miles were on yours? My challenge is swapping bushings at the rate I am wearing them out is not sustainable.

Please reply to this thread and let me know please as I would like to make a comment to MorRyde that I am not alone, I just happen to be someone that has climbed the chain to address it

. Thanks in advance.

Jason

I went to rotate my tires on the rv today (21 31MB) and found I had some play in the bushings (Morryde HD Wet Bolt Kit factory installed) in the spring eyes. I took them apart on one side and found the CRE3000 bushings are still ok but the ones in the spring eyes completely shot. 10,758 miles.

I am going to be replacing all 4 along with new wet bolts and hardware. I think these bushings are brass. I believe bronze is better. I will be going that route or whatever the trailer shop recommends. 10k miles and they look like I would expect nylon bushings to look. Unacceptable...