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  1. #21
    Site Sponsor Malco1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by toolman.dustin View Post
    I've had numerous problems with my Dexter 12" brakes since swapping out my axles in 2020, and moving from 10" brakes to 12" Dexter brakes. You're problem certainly sounds like the brakes are dragging all the time and overheating. That happened to me a couple years ago. I think the problem is I had manually adjusted them a little too tight. I took photos and emailed them to Dexter and they sent me all new brake assemblies, no charge. However, I continued to have braking problems. I just couldn't get the trailer to stop like it did when I had 10" brakes.

    After 2 years of troubleshooting, I finally discovered the brake problem was with my 12" Dexter brake magnets. I had a LOT of trouble getting my trailer to stop. After a ton of research I discovered that Dexter, 12" brake magnets are INTENTIONALLY about 1/2 the size of other manufacturer brake magnets. Therefore, way less stopping ability. They are designed to slow your trailer down, NOT STOP IT. If you look closely on the Dexter web site you will find this postings:

    Dexter says their 12" brakes: "When loaded to capacity, you may not be able to lock your brakes as electric brakes are designed to slow the trailer at a controlled rate, and not designed to lock up the wheels on a fully loaded trailer. Our brakes are designed to meet all applicable safety standards."

    The Dexter story is, years ago people kept complaining to Dexter that the 12" brakes would lock up and create flat spots on their tires. Dexter got tired of having the same argument with trailer owners so they made the magnets smaller so they won't lock up the brakes.

    I ordered a different brand brake assembly on Amazon and the moment I opened the box I could see the difference, the magnets are almost twice the size! You still have to burnish in the new brakes according to the video you mentioned. I installed these new brakes in Oct 2022 and after 4,000 miles of driving they are starting to feel much better. I tried measuring the voltage, current, and even tried using a compass to measure the magnetic field of the magnets. My first suggestion is to get rid of the Dexter 12" brakes.

    I ordered these on amazon for $237: "Southwest Wheel 2-Pack 12" X 2" TruRyde Self-Adjusting Electric Brakes with Hardware (2 Right Hand + 2 Left Hand) "

    Best of luck,
    Dustin
    After about 4K miles I checked my brakes and found that all 4 wheels had worn out pads. Two drums had to be replaced, it seems that no body in my area cuts drums. I bought 2 drums from E Trailer. They came with bearings already greased. I bought 4 backing plate assys. 2 lefts and 2 rights. Dexter was way too expensive, so I got Lippert units at half the price. I did the job myself and the brakes work much better than they did before. Before changing I had the brake controller setting at 8.5 or 9. Now it is set to 6.
    Mal & Helen
    With Mitzi our Yorkie
    2021 Solitude 310GK-R
    2020 Reflection 303RLS Sold
    2020 Ford F250 Lariat Super Duty 4WD 6.7 Diesel Short Bed
    B&W Companion Slider
    Amateur Radio Call sign WA2TWA


  2. #22
    Left The Driveway
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    It may be time to consider upgrading to disc brakes. I did after my maiden trip out west in our Momentum. The difference in stopping power is inspiring. IMO a magnet will never exert the pressure needed to engage the shoes; hydraulic force is needed. Additionally, through operator error or bad design, the inside seals seem to fail often, allowing the grease to render the brake shoes useless. The choices for disc brake conversion are discussed in several threads on this forum.

  3. #23
    Long Hauler
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    ^^^^^ Another vote for disc brakes! On every heavy trailer I owned, I've converted to disc brakes. From car haulers to 45' hay hauling gooseneck flatbeds to my 320MKS. For me, is one of the first things I do to a trailer.
    Mark & Mary. Full-timing across the USA (and Canada)!
    Current Coach: 2021 Grand Design Reflection 320MKS
    Current Rig: 2019 Ford F350 SD Crew Cab, w/8' box, Lariat, SRW, 6.7l Diesel

  4. #24
    Site Sponsor
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    Quote Originally Posted by jkwilson View Post
    The breakaway switch is the same as having the gain all the way up on the controller. It’s nearly impossible to lock the brakes on a heavy trailer.

    The condition of the brakes indicates they are being applied excessively either through the application of power too frequently or at too high a level. An intermittent breakaway switch might accomplish this.

    But I wouldn’t discount issues with the dealer.
    I am not a mechanic in any way but I have professionally driven 48 ft trailers with a rating of 40,000 lbs and had electric brakes. You always knew when the breakaway pulled loose because you were then leaving 6 skid marks as you tried to get the trailer to a safe place. Needless to say it almost always destroyed the tires. We also had the breakaway switch activate in our 5er and it locked the brakes as well.
    2019 29rs
    2007 Ram diesel, 4x4 long bed
    CDL with tanker, hazmat, emergency vehicle, and bus endorsements

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by DougW9876 View Post
    My first impression is the brake controller is putting out too much current and is causing the trailer brakes to do almost all of the stopping for the rig which would overwork the trailer brakes and could cause the extra wear and overheating. If that were the case you would likely feel the trailer brakes slowing you down.

    An unlikely possibility is there is a wiring error which is causing power that should be to the lights is instead wired to the brakes. It could show voltage when the brake lights come on so at first glance it would look to be working properly while it is instead sending more voltage than necessary to the brakes. It would take some careful testing and tracing of wires to eliminate this possibility.

    Normally a grounding issue would cause the brakes to not work well enough or not at all.
    You mentioned the trailer doing most of the stopping. I am just looking at his original post and he is towing a 16800 lb trailer with a 3/4 ton . I have no idea what his payload is but I know that most people with that size rig go with a 350 or larger. Could this lead to some of his issues?
    2019 29rs
    2007 Ram diesel, 4x4 long bed
    CDL with tanker, hazmat, emergency vehicle, and bus endorsements

  6. #26
    Left The Driveway
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    That might be a future option however everything is still under warranty. I asked the dealership about not using the self-adjusting magnetic ones but they said they have to replace with "like product". On Thursday I picked up it from the dealership after they installed the 2nd set of new brakes (Bought it new and had it less than 1 Year) and started the burnishing process from the video which was provided to me on this Forum (thank you) and found that one of brake drums is not reaching the same temperature as the other 3. 150 degrees instead of 350 degrees. Now I have to take it back in. Could be a voltage/adjustment. Never ending

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baller View Post
    That might be a future option however everything is still under warranty. I asked the dealership about not using the self-adjusting magnetic ones but they said they have to replace with "like product". On Thursday I picked up it from the dealership after they installed the 2nd set of new brakes (Bought it new and had it less than 1 Year) and started the burnishing process from the video which was provided to me on this Forum (thank you) and found that one of brake drums is not reaching the same temperature as the other 3. 150 degrees instead of 350 degrees. Now I have to take it back in. Could be a voltage/adjustment. Never ending
    150 seems more correct than 350.
    John & Kathy
    2014 F250 Lariat FX4 6.2L SBCC
    2014 Reflection 303RLS
    SW Indiana

  8. #28
    Seasoned Camper
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    I have had better luck with brake and axle issues with the axle company than the trailer company.

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