Lot's of water left in lines after winterization

[03griz]

I purchased my camper used last fall. It was winterized by the dealer. Fast forward to this spring, it's still below freezing at night here and not warm during the day. We are 10 degrees below seasonal tempuratures. Anyways I never unwinterized my trailer and since I was chomping at the bit to start some mods I did just that. That lead to running hot water line to the spray port, and then well might as well put pex on the cold water to the spray port, then might as well just change a little soft pipe. That has lead to changing out all soft pipe except the two running into the wall for the shower. When looking at the back of the hot water heater I just could not figure out how the output of the tank can ever get the water out on both sides of the one way valve. Well when I took it apart I can confirm it was all clear water, no pink antifreeze in and around that valve. Remember I have not put water in this unit yet, hoping I don't find something broken because it will be hard to tell the dealer it's because they didn't winterize properly. Anyways long story short I believe I have figured out why those one way valves on the output of the hot water tanks fail. Disconnecting it after you winterize the trailer would allow that water to drain. Plus I recomend after you drain your hot water tank that you allow some antifreeze to pump into the hot water tank before turning the bypass. The line that feeds the tank was also full of water. Once you hit the bypass for the tank there is really no way that water can pump out of there since the antifreeze is diverted away.

Of course I have no idea if the proper winterization process was followed. I would hope that the dealer would have done it right. I would appreciate anyone elses experiences.

[Hoopy Frood]

I've never winterized the water heater in any way, other than draining the tank, and have not had an issue. I did have the plastic check valve fail, but we bought this trailer used so can't swear how it was winterized previously. I did have to replace the plastic check valve with another plastic one, all that was available where I was, and have had no issues with that one. You could be correct, but I still don't plan on running anti-freeze into the water heater tank. But that's me.

[Redapple63]

I've never winterized the water heater in any way, other than draining the tank, and have not had an issue. I did have the plastic check valve fail, but we bought this trailer used so can't swear how it was winterized previously. I did have to replace the plastic check valve with another plastic one, all that was available where I was, and have had no issues with that one. You could be correct, but I still don't plan on running anti-freeze into the water heater tank. But that's me.

Im with Hoopy, took my rig home in Nov 2019. I drain the water heater and leave the plug on very loose. I use compressed air to blow out the lines as best as possible and call it good. Of course the extreme lows where I store my rig are maybe 24 or 25f, not 10 or worse, and it is usually only for say 3-5 hours overnight.

We did get a small leak at the water pump inlet, but that was not due to improper winterization.

Bill

[NB Canada]

As said use air to empty lines
I do both actually

When travelling back from our last camping trip I open up all the valves and taps and pull the plug on the water heater
This drains most of the water out
I then use the compressor to blow the lines evacuating the majority of water

I then bypass the heater and fill the system with antifreeze. Once the antifreeze has pushed out most of the remaining water I then open the low point drains and collect the antifreeze in a bucket then use that to dump down the drains

Takes 15-20 minutes

[Scott'n'Wendy]

I believe I have figured out why those one way valves on the output of the hot water tanks fail. Disconnecting it after you winterize the trailer would allow that water to drain.

Very possible. The connection on the HWH had caused a few issues.
However, like some others I don't use antifreeze, I use compressed air. And when you do that, air blasts right through that connection.

[Ynot4me2]

Our winters are harsh so I do like @NB Canada but I also but I also blow compressed air a second time after the antifreeze. Drain, blow, bypass HW, antifreeze, blow, drain, leave every tap open. The second blow is just in case water simply mix with the antifreeze lowering its freeze point. It only takes a few more minutes but you save those come spring. Less antifreeze to flush out.

A friend of mine forgot to bypass his HW when he filled with antifreeze. He had to flush the HW a dozen time to get that taste and smell out.

[xrated]

The reason for the bypass valve is to KEEP the PINK STUFF out of the water heater. There is never a good reason to run it into there. Just make sure that you pull the drain plug and let it completely drain all the water out of it.

[03griz]

Blowing the lines out after the water tank is empty will help allot, just make sure to have the plug in the hot water tank so it pushes air past the check valve.. The issue is the lines pre and post hot water heater. With the change to pex I should have alleviated most of the issue. Attached are some rude drawings I made. The ones with the s shaped lines are factory and you can see where water can sit. The straight lines are the way I made it now with pex. Once the bypass is selected antifreeze will be pumped right up to the back side of the check valve. Much better in my opinion.

Also I didn't want anyone to fill the hot water tank with antifreeze. Just leave the tank open and bump the pump on and off for a second. That would pump the water out of that s-trap on the input that was created from the factory pipe routing. Not an issue if you blow it out with air as that water will blow out. However once the bypass is selected if you have any water in that line it is not leaving.......