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  1. #1
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    Stripped screws everywhere

    Newbie travel trailer owner. I tried searching for my title without too much luck of finding repairs. Trying to avoid going back to dealer if I can help it. Just need some advice for these stripped holes in certain materials on the rv. My list so far is the striker plate screws for exterior door are stripped. Plate can move back and forth and screws won't tighten. Do I just oversize this? Hate to keep going with larger and larger screws. 2nd is the door catch that's screwed into the outer fiberglass exterior door, those holes are stripped and won't tighten up. 3rd is the screws holding plastic fenders above wheels , some of those are backed out and won't tighten. Does the manufacturer guys just use impacts on everything and overtighten the crap of everything? Just frustrating on a brand new trailer and haven't even taken it camping yet. Just loading it up with things for now.
    2023 2500 rl
    Weekend Warrior
    2021 ford f150 3.5 1776 payload max tow package

  2. #2
    Seasoned Camper
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    Quote Originally Posted by childsplay View Post
    Newbie travel trailer owner. I tried searching for my title without too much luck of finding repairs. Trying to avoid going back to dealer if I can help it. Just need some advice for these stripped holes in certain materials on the rv. My list so far is the striker plate screws for exterior door are stripped. Plate can move back and forth and screws won't tighten. Do I just oversize this? Hate to keep going with larger and larger screws. 2nd is the door catch that's screwed into the outer fiberglass exterior door, those holes are stripped and won't tighten up. 3rd is the screws holding plastic fenders above wheels , some of those are backed out and won't tighten. Does the manufacturer guys just use impacts on everything and overtighten the crap of everything? Just frustrating on a brand new trailer and haven't even taken it camping yet. Just loading it up with things for now.
    For areas that do not see a lot of load, place toothpick in hole and use same size screw. Do not over tighten. Break off excess toothpick. The dealer may do the same for light repairs. It generally works well but if screw is removed the toothpick needs to be replaced.

    I do not know if this will work for the fenders but it might be worth a try and possibly use more than one toothpick if needed. If it does not tighten solidly, take a different approach.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by childsplay View Post
    Newbie travel trailer owner. I tried searching for my title without too much luck of finding repairs. Trying to avoid going back to dealer if I can help it. Just need some advice for these stripped holes in certain materials on the rv. My list so far is the striker plate screws for exterior door are stripped. Plate can move back and forth and screws won't tighten. Do I just oversize this? Hate to keep going with larger and larger screws. 2nd is the door catch that's screwed into the outer fiberglass exterior door, those holes are stripped and won't tighten up. 3rd is the screws holding plastic fenders above wheels , some of those are backed out and won't tighten. Does the manufacturer guys just use impacts on everything and overtighten the crap of everything? Just frustrating on a brand new trailer and haven't even taken it camping yet. Just loading it up with things for now.
    For the striker plate, you will have to go larger.

    For the screen door catch on the outer door, I took the outer door handle off, tried to neatly remove some of the styrofoam below the lock, where the catch sits, and put a couple of pieces of scrap wood in there, then screwed the catch to the wood.

    For the screws on the fender, and other screws that have exposed tips on the back side, I use speed nuts to secure those. Here they were from Amazon: Limited-time deal: Hillman 1143 Flat Speed Nut 6-32 in. 60-Pack, Gray https://a.co/d/blOLpJu

    You will have to use a pair of pliers to hold the nut as you screw the screw into it, it figure out a way to push them on. I purposely purchased #6 nuts which are smaller than the #8 screws, to keep them from ever backing out.
    Mark & Mary. Full-timing across the USA (and Canada)!
    Current Coach: 2021 Grand Design Reflection 320MKS
    Current Rig: 2019 Ford F350 SD Crew Cab, w/8' box, Lariat, SRW, 6.7l Diesel

  4. #4
    Site Sponsor Don and Linda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MoonShadow_1911 View Post
    For the striker plate, you will have to go larger.
    I have another option for you on the striker plate. You might consider installing RivNuts and replace the sheet metal screws on the plate with machine screws. I had to do that on my coach when I consistently had issues getting the striker plate to stop moving. You can get RivNuts from Amazon (I bought a set of assorted sizes for less than $10). Amazon will also be happy to sell you a tool to install the RivNut, but you don't really need one. I use a machine screw of the proper size, a couple of washers and some matching nuts to do the install. If you search YouTube for "Install RivNut without tool", you'll find several videos to show you how to use them.

    On some other areas, I've used Hillman 1144 Flat Speed Nuts. These are great for things that are very thin where you have access from both sides (like the metal skirting around the bottom of your coach). They're available from Amazon in a variety of sizes and work with either sheet metal screws or machine screws. I installed some of these on the skirting where screws had worked their way out just this morning.

    Good Luck!
    Don and Linda along with Trixie and Chase the Camping Dogs
    Jacksonville, Florida

    2019 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD Z71 Duramax Crewcab LTZ
    2022 Reflection 315RLTS


  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don and Linda View Post
    I have another option for you on the striker plate. You might consider installing RivNuts and replace the sheet metal screws on the plate with machine screws. I had to do that on my coach when I consistently had issues getting the striker plate to stop moving. You can get RivNuts from Amazon (I bought a set of assorted sizes for less than $10). Amazon will also be happy to sell you a tool to install the RivNut, but you don't really need one. I use a machine screw of the proper size, a couple of washers and some matching nuts to do the install. If you search YouTube for "Install RivNut without tool", you'll find several videos to show you how to use them.

    On some other areas, I've used Hillman 1144 Flat Speed Nuts. These are great for things that are very thin where you have access from both sides (like the metal skirting around the bottom of your coach). They're available from Amazon in a variety of sizes and work with either sheet metal screws or machine screws. I installed some of these on the skirting where screws had worked their way out just this morning.

    Good Luck!
    Yes, that is an option. I eventually put a steel back plate behind the striker plate since mine deformed every time we closed the door now, it doesn't.
    Mark & Mary. Full-timing across the USA (and Canada)!
    Current Coach: 2021 Grand Design Reflection 320MKS
    Current Rig: 2019 Ford F350 SD Crew Cab, w/8' box, Lariat, SRW, 6.7l Diesel

  6. #6
    Site Sponsor Don and Linda's Avatar
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    @MoonShadow_1911 - I really like the idea of a steel backing plate behind the striker plate. How did you do it?
    Don and Linda along with Trixie and Chase the Camping Dogs
    Jacksonville, Florida

    2019 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD Z71 Duramax Crewcab LTZ
    2022 Reflection 315RLTS


  7. #7
    Site Sponsor MccNeo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by childsplay View Post
    Newbie travel trailer owner. I tried searching for my title without too much luck of finding repairs. Trying to avoid going back to dealer if I can help it. Just need some advice for these stripped holes in certain materials on the rv. My list so far is the striker plate screws for exterior door are stripped. Plate can move back and forth and screws won't tighten. Do I just oversize this? Hate to keep going with larger and larger screws. 2nd is the door catch that's screwed into the outer fiberglass exterior door, those holes are stripped and won't tighten up. 3rd is the screws holding plastic fenders above wheels , some of those are backed out and won't tighten. Does the manufacturer guys just use impacts on everything and overtighten the crap of everything? Just frustrating on a brand new trailer and haven't even taken it camping yet. Just loading it up with things for now.
    The manufacturer of my rig used silicone caulking on the back-side of the fender skirts and bottom sheet metal skirting around the RV to prevent vibration backing out the screws. Seems to work very well. As for the door strikers and handles, I use toothpicks with glue in the empty holes being very careful not to over torque when reinstalling them.
    2020 Solitude 373FB-R,
    2017 Ford F-350 Lariat 6.7L 4x4 DRW Long Bed,
    TST 570 TPMS, MORryde Pinbox, B&W 25K Companion, Garmin RV785MT


  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don and Linda View Post
    @MoonShadow_1911 - I really like the idea of a steel backing plate behind the striker plate. How did you do it?
    I'll create a new post on what I did. Look for it very shortly.

    EDIT: Here is the link to the post: https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...-reinforcement
    Last edited by MoonShadow_1911; 04-13-2023 at 09:45 AM.
    Mark & Mary. Full-timing across the USA (and Canada)!
    Current Coach: 2021 Grand Design Reflection 320MKS
    Current Rig: 2019 Ford F350 SD Crew Cab, w/8' box, Lariat, SRW, 6.7l Diesel

  9. #9
    Seasoned Camper
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    My screen door catch has the two original screws in place that are stripped and two new ones below it so it can't slide down. This is only a few months old fix on a 3.5 year old rig. I need to try some of the se other ideas. I did use wood glue on some window dressing screws that were stripped that seemed to work.
    Imagine 2020 2670MK,
    2021 RAM 2500

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