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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by FT4NOW View Post
    When I'm setting up to backin to the pin, I stop slightly before the pin engages, but where the lube plate on the pin box is above the hitch plate, then I lower the RV so the lube plate is touching the hitch plate. I then will backup the rest of the way and the truck almost lifts the RV a hair when I'm locked in. This method prevents high hitching.
    Almost every set of instructions I have seen for hitching a 5th wheel say to lower the trailer so the plate on the trailer is an inch and a half or two inches below the plate on the truck. The truck will take part of the weight of the trailer as you back in that last foot. This makes sure you don’t get a high hitch problem.
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  2. #22
    Paid my dues 😁 FT4NOW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DougW9876 View Post
    Almost every set of instructions I have seen for hitching a 5th wheel say to lower the trailer so the plate on the trailer is an inch and a half or two inches below the plate on the truck. The truck will take part of the weight of the trailer as you back in that last foot. This makes sure you don’t get a high hitch problem.
    It's essentially what I do, I just make sure I'm not running the lube plate into the hitch plate; I don't know how a horizontal force can affect the integrity of the lube plate. In the end the pin box is riding up the hitch plate (I'm sure I could have described it in more detail in my previous post).
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  3. #23
    Site Sponsor ajg617's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Susan_S View Post
    Now my husband and I are doing redundant checks because we're worried that one set of eyes isn't enough.
    Redundancy is key. We have a written checklist - some might think it is overkill but it isn't. And if you think it can't happen with a Goosebox, well it's possible. Key for me was last minute recognition by my wife via checklist item that I hitched up but left the locking cable in the un-locked position. This was a forgotten item on our arrival checklist - set cable to locked position. Even with a tug test, one good bump and we would have been a news story.
    Robin & John
    2020 Ram 3500 LB SRW 4WD Crew Laramie 6.7HO Aisin, 55gal Titan
    2022 Solitude 310GK-R - Dual pane, factory solar & Onan, 8K axles with discs, 18K GVWR, W/D, Heat Pump, Goosebox, Battleborn

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  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by FT4NOW View Post
    When I'm setting up to backin to the pin, I stop slightly before the pin engages, but where the lube plate on the pin box is above the hitch plate, then I lower the RV so the lube plate is touching the hitch plate. I then will backup the rest of the way and the truck almost lifts the RV a hair when I'm locked in. This method prevents high hitching.

    We do exactly the same thing. Again, doing this method has always ensured a locked pin (with inspection) in the last 5 yrs of towing our 5er since new.

    Also, we do not do a pull test either.... just ensure the jaws are closed around the king pin (both wife and I inspect), hitch lock arm is fully engaged (on our Reese 16k we hookup with safety lock off and arm in closed position - king pin forces jaws open, arm movement to allow jaws to facilitate the pin connection, and then closes around pin and the arm locked shut). Then do a final plate (face) to plate check as well and then place arm safety latch on the arm after final inspections.

    With this method, just dont see anything but a failure in the jaws mechanism that could release the pin. The time to pin failure in the OPS case alone, in my opinion, is very questionable in favor of the OP.
    Jim and Annette
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  5. #25
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    This is one of those "keep you awake at night" nightmares. I am glad all are safe and it ended up not being catastrophic.

    I always put the pin low enough to flex the lube plate and ride up into the hitch. It looks un-natural but will lift the trailer as I go under and hit the kingpin to latch. A visual check with a flashlight from the back will see if the jaws are engaged with the kingpin, and I need to see the entire lower portion of the kingpin below the jaws. Pin the jaws closed. Pull test is a must.
    Three years on the same lube plate with no damage or cracking.

    So far, only once was I too low and caused the lube plate to pop off. Moved out and re-positioned the lube plate (no damage) back on the kingpin. After raising it just a smidge, backed in with no problem.

    In reality, I see the bed of the truck go down about 1" to 1.5" and the trailer just looks like it's lifting. Visually it can be deceiving, as the hitch plate rotates to level, it ends up in a lower plane that you would expect. The plate starts tipped to the rear and rotates about a point that is not relative to the edge you riding up onto. Hard to explain without a clever video to show it.

    Rob
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  6. #26
    Rolling Along jjbbrewer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Susan_S View Post
    And yes the jaws were closed, and the 2.5 hours is really concerning.
    Just as another data point, a friend of mine pulled his Solitude 122 miles at ~75mph down I-25 in Colorado with these sitting on his back seat.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    So that could explain why you were able to go quite a while before discovering your hitch issue.
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  7. #27
    Site Sponsor SGT ROC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjbbrewer View Post
    Just as another data point, a friend of mine pulled his Solitude 122 miles at ~75mph down I-25 in Colorado with these sitting on his back seat.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    So that could explain why you were able to go quite a while before discovering your hitch issue.
    Now that is a scary sight! Every time I put the hitch back in the truck I double check those pins.
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  8. #28
    Long Hauler
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    Oh my, that's a scary sight. Much worse than leaving the pin out of the locking handle. I'm not sure why there are 4 of them. My B&W only has two: one for each saddle.
    Howard and Peggy
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  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoopy Frood View Post
    Oh my, that's a scary sight. Much worse than leaving the pin out of the locking handle. I'm not sure why there are 4 of them. My B&W only has two: one for each saddle.
    My Reese 16k has 4 too, one at each corner of the base where the peg holes go thru a standard hitch mount in my puck base and/or former bed rails.
    Jim and Annette
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  10. #30
    Site Sponsor SGT ROC's Avatar
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    my Curt has 4 also, for the above bed rails
    Bob (retired) & Vicki
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