portable jack

**grumpy337** · 02-27-2020, 11:05 AM

What is everyone carrying to jack 5th wheel & truck in case of flat tire?

**Canyonlight** · 02-27-2020, 12:01 PM

Originally Posted by grumpy337

What is everyone carrying to jack 5th wheel & truck in case of flat tire?

Over the years when this question has been "raised" - most folks reported using either a 12 ton or a 20 ton often depending in trailer weight or personal preference. Lesser rated jacks can do the job but they get worked pretty hard along with the users hand/arm with most RVs with the exception of some mid to light weight trailers.

Before I bought a 12 ton I tried my 6 ton and quickly learned why that was inadequate. The 12 ton works pretty nicely in both my jacking test on the axle (using a hard wood block between the U-bolts and jack) and the frame. This said, GDRV recommends jacking at the frame as noted in our Owners Manuals. I suspect this is noted to ensure folks who may not understand the proper jacking location/procedure on an axle do not damage it or create an unsafe situation. A number of folks have reported over the years where GDRV techs and LCI jacking under the axle. They know what they are doing.....wink wink !

I am thinking of getting a 20 ton for even easier use. Will need to think about the regular or shorty length. If a flat and jacking under the axle, a std. length jack may not fit.

Dan

**Calnca** · 02-27-2020, 12:36 PM

Here is what we carry.....

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/08...g?v=1576538023

**orbsah** · 07-12-2020, 07:05 AM

Hi all - I found this thread while searching "jacking" as I'm trying to learn the best technique while on my driveway. My owners manual suggests to place a jack on the frame close to the spring hanger. This doesn't make a lot of sense to me as it seems this would twist the frame and require lots of lifting to get one wheel off the ground. What does make sense is to have all the hydraulic leveling jacks down not necessarily to lift the frame, but to stabilize it. Then place a bottle jack under the U-bolts of the wheel I want to remove. That way, the jack is only lifting the weight of one wheel.

I found the jack for my truck (8T) would probably work, but it doesn't fit between the U-bolts. Maybe best to have some type of "U" block to match the contour of the axle. See the pictures - I didn't lift anything yet; Just placed there for this discussion. Can someone please provide some guidance on this before I jack it up? Both figuratively and literally. . . Thanks!

(Sorry, sideways pictures)

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**geotex1** · 07-12-2020, 07:25 AM

Originally Posted by orbsah

Hi all - I found this thread while searching "jacking" as I'm trying to learn the best technique while on my driveway. My owners manual suggests to place a jack on the frame close to the spring hanger. This doesn't make a lot of sense to me as it seems this would twist the frame and require lots of lifting to get one wheel off the ground. What does make sense is to have all the hydraulic leveling jacks down not necessarily to lift the frame, but to stabilize it. Then place a bottle jack under the U-bolts of the wheel I want to remove. That way, the jack is only lifting the weight of one wheel.

I found the jack for my truck (8T) would probably work, but it doesn't fit between the U-bolts. Maybe best to have some type of "U" block to match the contour of the axle. See the pictures - I didn't lift anything yet; Just placed there for this discussion. Can someone please provide some guidance on this before I jack it up? Both figuratively and literally. . . Thanks!

(Sorry, sideways pictures)

If you want to get into the engineering, the reason all manufacturers want you to lift by the frame is because it us the strongest part and can withstand the temporary point loading. Trailer axles cannot for several reasons spanning from the capacity of the tube, U-bolts, springs, and mounts. Now with your unit leveled out on its jacks as you're doing and then lifting the axle slightly for servicing us much less loading than the emergency roadside tire change the manufacturers are protecting with the recommendation.

FYI, there are specialty jack makers with all the attachments you need to safely lift a trailer. I've posted Safe Jack here before.

**orbsah** · 07-12-2020, 08:19 AM

Yeah, just to clarify, I'm not suggesting to raise the weight of the trailer w/ a jack under the U-bolt. I was suggesting using the leveling jacks to take most of the weight off the axles and then use the bottle jack for essentially lifting the weight of the wheel only. And then service one wheel at a time.

I suppose all emergencies are different, but if I were changing a tire on the side of the road (assuming safe clearance, etc.), I think I'd do the same thing. Again, I'm new to this so maybe I'm missing something. Thanks!

**BB&LAB** · 07-12-2020, 09:50 AM

This https://andersenhitches.com/Products...apid-jack.aspx

**geotex1** · 07-12-2020, 10:03 AM

Originally Posted by orbsah

Yeah, just to clarify, I'm not suggesting to raise the weight of the trailer w/ a jack under the U-bolt. I was suggesting using the leveling jacks to take most of the weight off the axles and then use the bottle jack for essentially lifting the weight of the wheel only. And then service one wheel at a time.

I suppose all emergencies are different, but if I were changing a tire on the side of the road (assuming safe clearance, etc.), I think I'd do the same thing. Again, I'm new to this so maybe I'm missing something. Thanks!

Until you have had to do a rapid change on a busy interstate, you do not appreciate it. Speed is what you want and need, and on a shoulder curved for drainage you're not in a position to level out with the jacks and do this. Battery impact gun and dual lift jack (compressed air or hand pump) with blocking are what works for me. Bust lugs off except 2, power down the spare, block and set jack with frame saddle, lift, swap, reverse all, and torque. We have safety, high-vis vests for both, road flares, triangles, orange cone for the MagLite, air horn, and a heck of an LED work light. Nikki watches and warns the traffic, and I work. If I hear her blast the air horn, that's the signal for me to get the heck out of Dodge! Health and safety precautions is long engrained in me because of my career, but we added the air horn after 9 years ago after our friend was killed changing a flat by a lookielou that clipped him after crossing 3 feet into the shoulder.

**dryfly** · 07-12-2020, 12:58 PM

I'm kinda finding it difficult to follow the physics of having the leveling jacks downs when lifting the trailer. I've always hooked the trailer up to the truck, and raised all jacks. I thought this would be less stressful on the frame/jacks. Am I missing something?

**FT4NOW** · 07-12-2020, 02:02 PM

Originally Posted by dryfly

I'm kinda finding it difficult to follow the physics of having the leveling jacks downs when lifting the trailer. I've always hooked the trailer up to the truck, and raised all jacks. I thought this would be less stressful on the frame/jacks. Am I missing something?

Most people are putting the lifting point between the u-bolts of the axle, so the wheel will lift, but the rest of the camper remains stationary. It's no different that the wheel going over a speed bump, similar suspension travel.

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