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Thread: Suspension upgrade
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08-12-2019, 06:51 PM #11
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Steve,
Yes he did upgrade the axles to the 8k. I guess for the money I was expecting a bigger difference from his trailer to mine. I find my solitude tow’s great. I never find things thrown around and have not found anything broken as of yet. I guess the real test will be the toll toad on the way to the rally in a couple weeks. I may be eating my words 🤣
My Solitude and his Landmark are about the same length the difference is the tow vehicle. Mine is a Chevy 3500 CC SRW
And his is a Chevy 3500 CC DRW. Both diesel.
I’m gonna talk to the rep at the rally, I plan on doing something just not sure what yet.
Thanks for all the great info and feed back.
DonDon & Gayle
3 fur babies
2016 solitude 375re
2015 Chevy Silverado 3500 SRW crew cab short bed LTZ Z71 Duramax
Rear timbren suspension blocks
PullRite super glide 24k auto-slide
Morryde rubber pin box
Sailun G637
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08-12-2019, 07:20 PM #12
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My main reason for the switch to I/S was the increased comfort with the beefier components. The stock suspension has been the source of numerous complaints, as you will find if a search is done. When looking at the two suspensions, the I/S sells itself.
Gordo Fuchs
Northfield, Ohio 44067
2015 305RE Moryde I/S, Electric/hydraulic disc brakes
2008 Dodge Ram 3500 Cummins
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08-13-2019, 12:47 AM #13
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Don, I think you're making a reasonable choice given your lack of suspension issues. I'd suggest keeping any suspension mods at the rally sweet, inexpensive and simple. You don't want to pay for a LRE4000 system only to have to surplus it should you decide to install an IS system later. I also think the MORryde heavy duty shackle upgrades are a good investment even on a trouble free suspension - especially if your 2016 is like our early 2017. From the factory, our Momentum only had wet bolts at the equiflex levelers. Unfortunately it also had the self-destructing plastic "never lube" bushings. If you order the shackle kit, make note if you have the Correct Track system. That matters because the C/T system needs longer wet bolts at the frame hangers.
As for brakes, I'd swallow hard and get electric over hydraulic discs. Expensive and IMO worth every penny for the added measure of safety and peace of mind. Note that your friend's dually has 50% more pavement contact surface than your SRW making it ever more important to have a trailer that will hold up its end of the braking duties without the heat fading so common with drums.
I suspect the Lippert springs on your 2016 predate the problematic metallurgy batch that was failing on the 2017's. Still, it's a good idea to periodically inspect the leaf springs near the eyes for early signs of stress fatigue. That's where they like to snap. Also I'd make sure the nuts on the leaf spring U-bolts are holding torque at least monthly. We learned these two lessons the hard, expensive way.
Wishing you continued good luck with the factory suspension.
Agreed. Our 7K IS seems way beefier than the factory suspension it replaces.
Last edited by Luv2Ski; 08-13-2019 at 01:26 AM.
Steve and Cheryl
2017 Momentum 328M w/Dual Pane Windows and 3rd A/C. Aftermarket mods: Titan EOH Disc Brakes, MORryde IS suspension and Reese 5th Airborne Sidewinder pin box
2014 Ram 3500 Longhorn Megacab 4x4 DRW with 6.7 HD Cummins Turbo Diesel, AISIN trans, 3.73 axles and a Reese 20K puck mount hitch
Call sign: AAØSB, Class: Extra
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08-13-2019, 12:47 PM #14
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Hey Steve, Thanks for the great advise. Also my main reason to switch is for safety and to reduce the risk of failure. I’m all about preventative maintenance!!
See what happens at the rally.
Hope to see you there
DonDon & Gayle
3 fur babies
2016 solitude 375re
2015 Chevy Silverado 3500 SRW crew cab short bed LTZ Z71 Duramax
Rear timbren suspension blocks
PullRite super glide 24k auto-slide
Morryde rubber pin box
Sailun G637
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08-17-2019, 04:19 PM #15
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Can't resist......
The best suspension upgrade is the one - and for the life of me I can't understand why - that the RV manufacturers seem resistant to make. And that is to take a page out of the modern day suspension systems book. I've said this elsewhere before, so sorry for the repeat.
Springs - be they leaf or coils - are springs. Their job is to "suspend" or take the weight/load - not to solely absorb shock. Imagine a spring in slow motion. You hit a bump, that bump is translated into an upward vertical force which compresses the spring. And at some point, that spring has to release the energy it stored during compression and creates a downward force. Yes - there's a certain amount of control during compression, but nearly none in rebound. And, when springs are excited as such, their boing, boing, boing frequency dies off over a period of time - this we call dwell. Back in the 40's (you heard right), Engineers decided to try and tame this dwell time since folks were being bucked around (out of?) their Model T's and they came up with???? TA-DA!!! The shock absorber (or dash pot for you geeks) - thus quelling the dwell.
Fast forward to today and even the most inexpensive shock does wonders when coupled to a "spring" by controlling the compression and rebound acceleration forces. High tech shocks have adjustments for fine turning a shock absorber for both compression and rebound dampening. Sorry....got carried away. I've done a fair bit of suspension tuning on cars and bikes. ANYHOW.......
It just baffles me that manufacturers don't provide some form of shock absorption. But - I guess that would take all of the fun out of installing shocks.
TomTom & Donna
Our RV: 2016 Reflection 337RLS 5th wheel
Our Tow Beast: 2017 Ram 3500 Limited Dually
Our Dogs: Sadie & Bugsey
Favorite Drink: Moonshine
Nationality: Redneck
My Motto: May the bridges we burn light the way
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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08-17-2019, 07:24 PM #16
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I like how you put this. It's the Not-The-Readers'-Digest-version of how I usually respond to RV suspension questions. When asked why I replaced the suspension on our RV - or why I don't like RV OEM suspension systems - I simply reply, "Current towable RV suspension systems are the same as my grandfathers' suspension systems... and they were both born in the 1800s."
RobU.S. Army Retired
2012 F350 DRW CC LB Lariat PS 6.7
2020 Solitude 310GK-R, MORryde IS, disc brakes,
Sailun LRG tires, solar, DP windows, W/D
(Previously in a Reflection 337RLS)
Full time since 08/2015
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08-17-2019, 07:26 PM #17
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I cannot add too much to what has already been said about the Morryde IS concerning feel. But part of the reason I upgraded is never wanting to experience another hanger bracket failure. Maybe leaf spring suspensions were OK in the middle of the last century when speeds were slower and roads not as torn up, but they are inadequate at today's speeds and some of the abysmal pavement conditions I have experienced. If you plan to actually travel in your RV, your suspension needs to be up to the task. It is no wonder that Morryde's appointment book is usually full several months out.
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08-17-2019, 07:52 PM #18
Hi Tom,
The problem with your theory (which I agree with BTW) is that it does not happen on a tandem axle suspension where the axles are connected through a shock absorbing equalizer. Do you see your 337 going boing-boing-boing in your mirrors?
I seriously considered adding dampers (based on the suspension theory described by Tom) but couldn’t observe anything that needed damping. I even got Cate to video the side of our 303 in her mirror as we traveled some rough roads so that I could examine the video more carefully. There is no visible rebound to the jounce input, to put it in suspension terms.
If the boing-boing-boing undamped jounce/rebound were actually going on, this would be visible (like the back end of a car with worn shocks) and there would be a lot more stuff bounced around inside the trailer.
Following my Dad’s advice (yet again) on this one . . . if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.
RobCate & Rob
2015 Reflection 303RLS
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08-19-2019, 01:20 PM #19
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I'm going to take the other side of this argument just for giggles. Not that I'm against IS cause I'm definitely not. I've looked into it and it would/will be on my short list if/when I know I'm keeping a trailer of an extended period of time. The cost/benefit just doesn't make sense for me personally without a longer term payback period. Maybe a lot comes back in resale but I'm not gonna bank on it.
The problem is GD's system is probably as cheaply done as possible. I know its a lippert system but I'm sure GD could spec something better if they wanted too. Look at the pics below. The first is my 18' Solitude. I took it when I was packing the wheel bearings and I found that my less then 2 year old trailer had completely disintegrated brakes(less than 10K miles). So I got to replace the brake assembly's at the same time. And yes, I have also noticed the spring is flattening out also, next years project. Anyway, the bottom pic is my Dads 19' pinnacle, notice the sub frame with cross bracing at the center and each hanger bracket, the Morryde sre4100 equalizer system, The heavy duty shackles, The 7 leaf (instead of 6) leaf springs for the same 7000 axle. And for good measure Goodyear tires. Our units are basically the same size with similar GVWR's.
Point is, leaf's can easily be done in a way that would greatly lessen or eliminate the need for all the hanger repairs, structural reinforcements, and spring and equalizer replacements that we're having to do just to feel safe and get a little better ride.
If leafs are good enough for our trucks then I imagine they're fine for the trailers if they're done right.Last edited by JKellerJr; 08-19-2019 at 01:25 PM.
2021 Solitude 375 RES-R
2024 GMC Denali ultimate DRW
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08-19-2019, 03:35 PM #20
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Channging Battery Type?
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