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  1. #1
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    Silly Question? (Victron Multiplus 3000 inverter install requirements)

    I've decided I am going to install a Victron Multiplus 3000 inverter with DIY lifepo4 24v battery banks of 280AH cells. I plan to build 2 banks to run in parallel. I'm still researching and working everything out regarding the build. I also now plan to leave the 12v system separate from the AC system since I have a 206AH lifepo4 battery and solar with 12v fridge in the new RV. But here's a question I'm trying to understand better...

    My RV is 30 amps. I want to be able to run the AC and microwave during lunch stops or whatever; basically I want the ability to run most things as if I were plugged into shore power. I see that BMS's are available that are capable of 100 amps continuous and 200 amps peak. If I have two 24v banks in parallel, the amperage from each BMS would be cut in half so I would have plenty of headroom if I ever got close to pulling 3,000 watts on the inverter, correct?

    And I need to size the wiring, fuses, ect., from the battery bank to the Victron, and Victron to power panel, with the assumption that I could be pulling 30 amps with a max voltage drop of 3%?
    Chad
    2023 23LDE 965W Solar, Victron Multiplus, Solar Controllers, Cerbo GX, 4x280AH DIY Lithium Batteries, SeeLevel Tank Monitoring, Shock Absorbers (Replaced 2022 22MLE)
    2022 F350 6.7L Superduty, Carbonized Gray, Ultimate Lariat Pkg, 4WD, Crew Cab, 160" Wheelbase, 3.55EL Rear End, 3566# Payload
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  2. #2
    Site Team Soundsailor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Riverbug View Post
    I've decided I am going to install a Victron Multiplus 3000 inverter with DIY lifepo4 24v battery banks of 280AH cells. I plan to build 2 banks to run in parallel. I'm still researching and working everything out regarding the build. I also now plan to leave the 12v system separate from the AC system since I have a 206AH lifepo4 battery and solar with 12v fridge in the new RV. But here's a question I'm trying to understand better...

    My RV is 30 amps. I want to be able to run the AC and microwave during lunch stops or whatever; basically I want the ability to run most things as if I were plugged into shore power. I see that BMS's are available that are capable of 100 amps continuous and 200 amps peak. If I have two 24v banks in parallel, the amperage from each BMS would be cut in half so I would have plenty of headroom if I ever got close to pulling 3,000 watts on the inverter, correct?

    And I need to size the wiring, fuses, ect., from the battery bank to the Victron, and Victron to power panel, with the assumption that I could be pulling 30 amps with a max voltage drop of 3%?
    As you are planning, I have a 3,000-watt inverter (Renogy, not Victron). I'm using 4|0 cable from my battery bank to the bus bar and inverter to handle the 3,000-watt draw. You won't need that much from the Victron to the power panel, my coach came prewired with standard Romex cable. I don't think you'll be able to run both the AC and the microwave at the same time with a 3,000-watt inverter. Also, you may need some sort of Soft Start device for the AC.

    PS: I edited the title of your post to help people understand what you're looking for.
    Last edited by Soundsailor; 02-05-2023 at 10:07 AM.
    Stephen and Judy
    2022 Reflection 150 Series 260RD (Stella)
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Soundsailor View Post
    As you are planning, I have a 3,000-watt inverter (Renogy, not Victron). I'm using 4|0 cable from my battery bank to the bus bar and inverter to handle the 3,000-watt draw. You won't need that much from the Victron to the power panel, my coach came prewired with standard Romex cable. I don't think you'll be able to run both the AC and the microwave at the same time with a 3,000-watt inverter. Also, you may need some sort of Soft Start device for the AC.

    PS: I edited the title of your post to help people understand what you're looking for.
    Thanks for the response. I have a soft start already and the AC pulls 1450 watts while the microwave is 1100 watts so I figure I should be able to run them both on the Victron with a little headroom remaining, but I guess I'll have to see how it does in real world conditions. Thanks for confirming the answer regarding the wiring between the battery banks and Victron (although I won't need 4/0 wiring based on 24v system).

    Still interested in the answer to the question regarding the BMS's if anyone knows that answer...
    Chad
    2023 23LDE 965W Solar, Victron Multiplus, Solar Controllers, Cerbo GX, 4x280AH DIY Lithium Batteries, SeeLevel Tank Monitoring, Shock Absorbers (Replaced 2022 22MLE)
    2022 F350 6.7L Superduty, Carbonized Gray, Ultimate Lariat Pkg, 4WD, Crew Cab, 160" Wheelbase, 3.55EL Rear End, 3566# Payload
    Adaptive Steering, Ultimate Camera Pkg, 20" Wheels, 397 Amp Dual Alternator, ARE Topper (Replaced 2004 F150)

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    Site Team Redapple63's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Riverbug View Post
    I've decided I am going to install a Victron Multiplus 3000 inverter with DIY lifepo4 24v battery banks of 280AH cells. I plan to build 2 banks to run in parallel. I'm still researching and working everything out regarding the build. I also now plan to leave the 12v system separate from the AC system since I have a 206AH lifepo4 battery and solar with 12v fridge in the new RV. But here's a question I'm trying to understand better...

    My RV is 30 amps. I want to be able to run the AC and microwave during lunch stops or whatever; basically I want the ability to run most things as if I were plugged into shore power. I see that BMS's are available that are capable of 100 amps continuous and 200 amps peak. If I have two 24v banks in parallel, the amperage from each BMS would be cut in half so I would have plenty of headroom if I ever got close to pulling 3,000 watts on the inverter, correct?

    And I need to size the wiring, fuses, ect., from the battery bank to the Victron, and Victron to power panel, with the assumption that I could be pulling 30 amps with a max voltage drop of 3%?
    Hi Riverbug,

    I think it’s the other way around. If your battery bank is paralleled your continuous discharge is going to be the total of your bank. Each battery can discharge at the advertised rate but you have multiple , so the capacity is the total draw of that bank. In my case I have 2 300 ah batteries rated for a continuous discharge of 200 amps. With 2 batteries I have a total discharge capacity of 400 amps (pulling from each battery equally).

    In that sense I think you are ok, a bit more concerned hitting the ceiling of your inverter capacity. Your are mentioning 2600 watts, but you also need to account for the inverts itself and it’s less than 100% efficiency. Gettin close.

    Bill
    2019 GMC 3500 SRW Sierra Denali Duramax
    2020 Reflection 315RLTS

  5. #5
    Site Team Soundsailor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Riverbug View Post
    Thanks for confirming the answer regarding the wiring between the battery banks and Victron (although I won't need 4/0 wiring based on 24v system).
    Good point, I forgot you were going 24-volt. I have 12-volt, thus the need for the beefy cables.
    Stephen and Judy
    2022 Reflection 150 Series 260RD (Stella)
    2017 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD (Blue)
    Traded - 2018 Forest River Rockwood Minilite 2104S

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redapple63 View Post
    Hi Riverbug,

    I think it’s the other way around. If your battery bank is paralleled your continuous discharge is going to be the total of your bank. Each battery can discharge at the advertised rate but you have multiple , so the capacity is the total draw of that bank. In my case I have 2 300 ah batteries rated for a continuous discharge of 200 amps. With 2 batteries I have a total discharge capacity of 400 amps (pulling from each battery equally).

    In that sense I think you are ok, a bit more concerned hitting the ceiling of your inverter capacity. Your are mentioning 2600 watts, but you also need to account for the inverts itself and it’s less than 100% efficiency. Gettin close.

    Bill
    I had read that one could expect roughly 89% efficiency with the Victron Mulitplus, so I thought I would be getting close but possibly okay at 2600 watts. Actually, our microwave is 900 watts (smaller than our house microwave) so that provides a bit more buffer. But it's all just for trying to size for potential with the understanding that real-world may be different.
    Chad
    2023 23LDE 965W Solar, Victron Multiplus, Solar Controllers, Cerbo GX, 4x280AH DIY Lithium Batteries, SeeLevel Tank Monitoring, Shock Absorbers (Replaced 2022 22MLE)
    2022 F350 6.7L Superduty, Carbonized Gray, Ultimate Lariat Pkg, 4WD, Crew Cab, 160" Wheelbase, 3.55EL Rear End, 3566# Payload
    Adaptive Steering, Ultimate Camera Pkg, 20" Wheels, 397 Amp Dual Alternator, ARE Topper (Replaced 2004 F150)

  7. #7
    Site Team Redapple63's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Riverbug View Post
    I had read that one could expect roughly 89% efficiency with the Victron Mulitplus, so I thought I would be getting close but possibly okay at 2600 watts. Actually, our microwave is 900 watts (smaller than our house microwave) so that provides a bit more buffer. But it's all just for trying to size for potential with the understanding that real-world may be different.
    I think 2/0 is fine from batt to buss bar and buss bar to inverter based on guidance from Soundsailor and use of smaller gauge wire and lower amperage at 24 volts.

    Bill
    2019 GMC 3500 SRW Sierra Denali Duramax
    2020 Reflection 315RLTS

  8. #8
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    Thanks for the responses. I came across a DIY Solar Forum, so I'll search there and maybe ask the question about getting the right BMS for the DIY battery bank over there. Appreciate all the help!
    Chad
    2023 23LDE 965W Solar, Victron Multiplus, Solar Controllers, Cerbo GX, 4x280AH DIY Lithium Batteries, SeeLevel Tank Monitoring, Shock Absorbers (Replaced 2022 22MLE)
    2022 F350 6.7L Superduty, Carbonized Gray, Ultimate Lariat Pkg, 4WD, Crew Cab, 160" Wheelbase, 3.55EL Rear End, 3566# Payload
    Adaptive Steering, Ultimate Camera Pkg, 20" Wheels, 397 Amp Dual Alternator, ARE Topper (Replaced 2004 F150)

  9. #9
    Rolling Along
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    Quote Originally Posted by Riverbug View Post
    I've decided I am going to install a Victron Multiplus 3000 inverter with DIY lifepo4 24v battery banks of 280AH cells. I plan to build 2 banks to run in parallel. I'm still researching and working everything out regarding the build. I also now plan to leave the 12v system separate from the AC system since I have a 206AH lifepo4 battery and solar with 12v fridge in the new RV. But here's a question I'm trying to understand better...

    My RV is 30 amps. I want to be able to run the AC and microwave during lunch stops or whatever; basically I want the ability to run most things as if I were plugged into shore power. I see that BMS's are available that are capable of 100 amps continuous and 200 amps peak. If I have two 24v banks in parallel, the amperage from each BMS would be cut in half so I would have plenty of headroom if I ever got close to pulling 3,000 watts on the inverter, correct?

    And I need to size the wiring, fuses, ect., from the battery bank to the Victron, and Victron to power panel, with the assumption that I could be pulling 30 amps with a max voltage drop of 3%?
    There are a few BMS types that are 24v. I would suggest a minimum of 150 amp BMS. The DIY Solar Forum is a FANTASTIC place to learn, but can be a bit technical sometimes.

    I can help but I'll need to know a little more about how you plan to run the cells together? You can use a single BMS to run a 24v battery, no need to parallel. How many cells are you planning? 8? 16? 24? As far as for fuse and wiring, you'll expect about 125 amps as a starting point, but remember the fuse is there to protect the wiring, so plan accordingly.

  10. #10
    Site Team Ynot4me2's Avatar
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    I'm waiting for my cells to arrive (12v 305ah) so I'm also still in my planning stage. Below are 2 great charts that I always refer to and should help you. For the fuse, I believe you have to select your BMS first. It's also in the Victron literature base on the model you choose. You select the lower of the 2. Class T fuse is the one recommended for lithium. ANL also works. The wire size chart is for 12v so for 24v you divide by 2. I thought about doing 24v but I think I'll be going 2 x 12v eventually. Adding a bit of redundancy in case 1 battery fails for some reason. Hope this helpsClick image for larger version. 

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    Steph & Lise
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