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  1. #71
    Setting Up Camp
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    Hi Rob
    Is the Kantleak the the earlier version of the Nautilus system? Is the Nautilis system prone to the same issues as the older version. I want to add an accumulator tank and may redo the the plumbing on my 2017 303 at the same time.

  2. #72
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrongwayrver View Post
    Hi Rob
    Is the Kantleak the the earlier version of the Nautilus system? Is the Nautilis system prone to the same issues as the older version. I want to add an accumulator tank and may redo the the plumbing on my 2017 303 at the same time.
    Hi wrongwayrver,

    Kantleak is a supplier of a water control panel which accomplishes the same functions as the Nautilus panel. They are completely different products. The Kantleak panel had a couple of internal quality problems that caused GDRV to switch to Nautilus as their supplier. The only common "failure mode" between the two panels is where a soft hose is connected to a Pex fitting. Although GDRV stands by this as an acceptable RV industry standard practice, several on this forum have had these joints leak and the soft hose burst under heat and pressure from the water heater.

    The Nautilus panel has more connection points than the Kantleak panel, but only soft hose to Pex fitting are of concern. Pex tubing to Pex fitting is as intended and will not be a problem.

    An accumulator tank is a simple addition and is well worth adding. The pump cycles far less often and runs for a longer time when it does come on. Both are good things for pump life.

    Rob
    Cate & Rob
    2015 Reflection 303RLS

  3. #73
    Setting Up Camp
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    Hi Rob
    Did you use household pex or the thinner rv type pex.

  4. #74
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrongwayrver View Post
    Hi Rob
    Did you use household pex or the thinner rv type pex.
    The Pex tubing commonly available at Home Depot or similar, is the same ID and OD has the original Pex tubing in my 2015 303RLS. I used the straight lengths of blue and red to match the original cold/hot configuration in the trailer. The longer lengths of coiled Pex can be difficult to work with because the tubing "remembers" the coil for a while and needs more clips to hold it into place. I don't think there is a "thinner RV type Pex".

    Rob
    Cate & Rob
    2015 Reflection 303RLS

  5. #75
    Setting Up Camp
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    I decided to follow Rob’s rebuild doc on my 2015 Reflection 303rls, and replace the soft tube with pex, as well as brass fittings. My underbelly has filled with water and sagged a few times, but has proven elusive to nail down the origin.
    I got a little ahead of myself, and didn’t label things, planning on relying on Rob’s pics. Well, my eyesight is not as good as I thought it was, and I need a little help.

    1. The installation doc for the flojet 3426/3526/3626, I have the 3526, says:
    STEP 2
    Connect fittings supplied with the pump to the RV’s plumbing. Use 1/2" I.D. Flexible hose (preferably braided or reinforced) to reduce vibration through the plumbing system as shown on Fig. 1.
    Use hose clamps on the slip-on barb hose connectors
    .”
    I found my hose that was connected to the inlet of the pump was collapsed in half. I’m replacing it anyway, but I’m also curious about the hose clamps that were on there. They were not ss pex crimp rings, or copper. They were the kind you tighten with a screwdriver or a 4mm socket or something similar. I am wondering if the instructions in the installation doc for the pump meant the type with additional travel to tighten more. Would this compensate for the soft tube ID vs. pex fitting OD problem?
    The last note on page 2 says “Be sure to use lines rated to not collapse under pump vacuum.” Did I do something to cause this, or did the soft tube not meet spec requirements?
    Click image for larger version. 

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    2. The following diagrams are from the flojet installation doc,
    Click image for larger version. 

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    and the mini-accumulator tank model 305730004A installation doc.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I was trying to use these diagrams to make sense of my hoses, as I had the top water connection on the Kantleak fill valve going to the inlet of the 3526 flojet; so that was a mistake on my part.
    Here is the reinforced soft hose I made for the pump inlet and outlet. Q2) From where, to where, tee’d to what? Also, my water heater bypass dial doesn’t quite look like Rob’s.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Damn. I've hit my 5 pic attachment limit. Next post...

    I’ve been without water for a week, so I just want to get the stuff working and in the right order, then I’ll go back and run it all tight and outta sight.
    I really enjoy all the creative people on here, and I really appreciate the assistance!
    Nancy, Hank, Archie
    2015 Grand Design Reflection 303RLS
    2006 Ford F250 4x4 6.0L Diesel \ Demco 18k Hijacker Autoslide UMS

  6. #76
    Setting Up Camp
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    cont'd.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I guess that's it. Thanks!
    Nancy, Hank, Archie
    2015 Grand Design Reflection 303RLS
    2006 Ford F250 4x4 6.0L Diesel \ Demco 18k Hijacker Autoslide UMS

  7. #77
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by landsharks View Post
    . . . . I need a little help . . .
    Hi Nancy/Hank/Archie . . . not sure which one .

    Flattening the soft hose on the suction side of the pump is not uncommon. This happens when the pump is turned on without suction access to the water tank. (4 way valve in the wrong position).

    There are definitely stronger wall hoses that would better meet the Flojet spec. A 1/2" barbed fitting and a screw hose clamp are the "right parts for 1/2" ID soft hose (just as Flojet specifies) Clamping soft hose to a Pex fitting with a Pex clamp is not going to work for all the reasons previously discussed.

    Your water heater bypass valve looks to be the same as mine. Your tank access valve is different . . . because I changed out my plastic valve for a different brass valve with the same function.

    Following the Flojet system diagrams is good, but you also need to follow the Kantleak connection instructions. Trace each of your water lines going to the Kantleak valves and make sure that they are as shown in Figure 2 of the attached.

    Rob
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 200RV-PTInstructions.pdf  
    Cate & Rob
    2015 Reflection 303RLS

  8. #78
    Setting Up Camp
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    Perfect! Thanks. I'll go try it all now.
    Nancy, Hank, Archie
    2015 Grand Design Reflection 303RLS
    2006 Ford F250 4x4 6.0L Diesel \ Demco 18k Hijacker Autoslide UMS

  9. #79
    Fireside Member
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    I was in complete awe. You did amazing work. If you every open up a business offering your services please post I'll be first in line.
    Case24

  10. #80
    Setting Up Camp
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    Rob,
    I have 1 more connection until completion; The cold line to the city fixtures, but I want to achieve maximum pressure at the city fixtures and I had suspected that the 4-function fill valve might be hindering that a bit.
    My thought is to tee and do this after the inlet check valve, but before the 4-function fill valve, knowing that when using city fixtures I will adjust 4-function valve, and maybe a ball valve?
    Thoughts?
    Nancy, Hank, Archie
    2015 Grand Design Reflection 303RLS
    2006 Ford F250 4x4 6.0L Diesel \ Demco 18k Hijacker Autoslide UMS

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