Norcold double door fridge not getting cold enough

[CoChris]

OK, got it figured out. I was able to bend the baffle in to get to the wires on the thermo switch, jumped the wires and the fans come on. I'll replace the switch then bend the baffle back out to it's original position. Thanks for putting on the right trail....

I would recommend going with a lower temp (switch point) thermal switch. I have not done this but most people recommend one (105 deg?). Norcold uses 135 deg switch and it is to high (to late when the fans switch on). Again, I got this information from the forums here.

Chris

[Ron3rd]

Thanks Chris, I didn't know there where different calibrations. I've got the OEM switch on the way. I would also consider a different temp switch too if someone has a link. I've even read some folks bypass the switch and just have the fans running all the time.

My main question however was whether it's OK to mount the switch at the opposite end of the coil, ie does it make a difference?

[huntindog]

Thanks Chris, I didn't know there where different calibrations. I've got the OEM switch on the way. I would also consider a different temp switch too if someone has a link. I've even read some folks bypass the switch and just have the fans running all the time.

My main question however was whether it's OK to mount the switch at the opposite end of the coil, ie does it make a difference?

I am not sure that a different temp switch is needed. Other than my fans failing early my 2118 has been perfect. This is our fourth RV with an absorbtion fridge and by far the best. Aftter 2 years DW is still raving about it. Since we always boondock for long periods, we always had issues with produce lasting. No more with this fridge. We have actually brought some home and consumed it there after a trip... That was unthinkable with our previous fridges. I am even thinking of adding the optional icemaker to it.
Back to the switch. If I installed a 105 degree switch, the fans would rarely shut off here in Phoenix. And I have heard of some setting their fans up to run constantly.. That may be OK if your camping is with electric hookup, but would be a big negative in a boondocking situation. At any rate My fridge doesn't need it. I think there must be other issues for those that seem to need these modifications. IOW, the real problem has not been fixed. The mods are just a work around solution.
Probably a bad installation would be my guess.

[Ron3rd]

Thanks for the info huntingog, surprisingly the install on the fridge was pretty good with all the baffles nicely done. There's a few small gaps that could be sealed up however. I'm going to mount the OEM switch on the opposite end of the coil because the original switch is almost impossible to get to.

[huntindog]

Thanks for the info huntingog, surprisingly the install on the fridge was pretty good with all the baffles nicely done. There's a few small gaps that could be sealed up however. I'm going to mount the OEM switch on the opposite end of the coil because the original switch is almost impossible to get to.

There is one baffle that cannot be seen without pulling the fridge. IMO it is the most important one. It seals the top of the fridge against the interior of the fridge cavity

I am not sure about mounting the switch on the other side. In many HVAC applications the temp can be different

[Ron3rd]

In my model the fridge is in the slide. There's only one baffle I'm aware of at the top that sends the heat out the top side vent. I'm going to give it a try with mounting the switch on the opposite end and see how it goes. Eventually I'll probably do what you did and pull the fridge and upgrade the fans. Thanks for all your help.

[Redapple63]

Hi Ron,

The temp switches are called snap disk thermostats. You cash get them in all different temp ranges. The default is on at 130f and off at 115f.

You can go to a lower thermostat, say on at 115 and off at 100. You will find the pipe temps are more nominal for an absorption fridge (which is optimal at about 100-115. By coming on at 130 it’s already too hot. If you go too much lower you start to swing on the other end of thermal efficiency.

Out of basically just a temp switch, find one in the temp range you are looking for and play around with it.

You can go the route I went and get a digital controller, but it requires 3 wire fans.

Here is the controller I got.

https://a.co/d/iYWpRJK

It can control up to 4 fans. Use the 12v that runs to the snap thermostat and run to the controller instead, that was you can play around with the temps to find what it optimal for your situation. I settled in with an on temp of 95 and an off of 120.

Remember, based on outside temps, that with these in play, the fans may not turn off at all.

I went on a 5 state trip in Aug and there were times we saw outside temps of 115. Fridge was solid with zero issues. Your mileage may vary due to unique installation circumstances.

BTW, mine is a Norcold 1210 in the slide.

Bill

[huntindog]

In my model the fridge is in the slide. There's only one baffle I'm aware of at the top that sends the heat out the top side vent. I'm going to give it a try with mounting the switch on the opposite end and see how it goes. Eventually I'll probably do what you did and pull the fridge and upgrade the fans. Thanks for all your help.

Mine is in the slide as well.

[alkbch]

Huntr, Per your method, I'm getting 38 degrees in the fridge and 8 in the freezer. Verified both with my new Accu Rite remote unit and my instant read meat thermometer. They're both within 1 degree.

Those temperatures are not bad at all.

[tigerGUY1955]

Ron....We've been full timing over 3.5 years. I
added 2 more fans in the motor area accessed from the exterior of the rig. It won't work like your residential refrigerator/freezer unless the thing is almost empty.