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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by McDugals View Post
    Seems like a good time to remind everyone to check their fire extinguishers (missed fire prevention week last week). Check the bottom for the manufacture date. If it is older than 6 years, service or replace it. If it has a gauge, make sure it is in the green. Invert the extinguisher to loosen the powder.

    Extinguishers with plastic heads cannot be serviced. Most metal-head extinguishers can be serviced, but it is usually more cost effective to replace. Consider a minimum 2 1/2 lb (preferable 5 lb if space allows) extinguisher and make sure it is properly mounted in the correct bracket.
    Thanks for the reminder!!! I hope this thread helps someone down the line somewhere. For me, the biggest take away is placement of the extinguishers. They are not much use if they are locked in a compartment somewhere when you need them "NOW!" and when you need them, it is always NOW!
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  2. #22
    Site Team xrated's Avatar
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    Another very important piece of advice in this discussion is this. ANYTIME a breaker or fuse is changed to a LARGER current value than what was in the circuit originally, very careful consideration should be made PRIOR to changing the fuse or breaker to determine whether or not the existing wiring is of a sufficient size for the new/larger fuse or breaker. Fuses and breakers are there to protect the WIRE.....not the device. Let me say that again.....the fuse or breaker is there to protect the WIRE.....not the device.

    Going to a smaller fuse or breaker than was originally there is usually not an issue, as you are basically just offering up more protection for the wiring rather than less protection. The "Gotcha" on doing that is that the current draw on the device that is being used may in fact blow the fuse or trip the breaker. Most folks don't normally want to put small/less current rated fuses or breakers in, they want larger.....because they've added devices to a circuit or they've changed out the original device and it now draws more current than the original device. If that's the case, then make absolutely, positively sure that the larger sized fuse or breaker is not oversized for the WIRE.......
    Last edited by xrated; 10-10-2022 at 07:07 AM.
    2016 F350 CrewCab Dually
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  3. #23
    Setting Up Camp
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    Quote Originally Posted by xrated View Post
    Another very important piece of advice in this discussion is this. ANYTIME a breaker or fuse is changed to a LARGER current value than what was in the circuit originally, very careful consideration should be made PRIOR to changing the fuse or breaker to determine whether or not the existing wiring is of a sufficient size for the new/larger fuse or breaker. Fuses and breakers are there to protect the WIRE.....not the device. Let me say that again.....the fuse or breaker is there to protect the WIRE.....not the device.

    Going to a smaller fuse or breaker than was originally there is usually not an issue, as you are basically just offering up more protection for the wiring rather than less protection. The "Gotcha" on doing that is that the current draw on the device that is being used may in fact blow the fuse or trip the breaker. Most folks don't normally want to put small/less current rated fuses or breakers in, they want larger.....because they've added devices to a circuit or they've changed out the original device and it now draws more current than the original device. If that's the case, then make absolutely, positively sure that the larger sized fuse or breaker is not oversized for the WIRE.......
    Another great point. Thank you. When I upgraded the breaker, I obviously didn't dig deep enough. I see now that you upgraded to 4 gage when you made the swap. At the time all of the threads I read lead me to believe the existing 6 gage was sufficient. I'm fairly certain there are quite a few out there who have upgraded to 80 amp using the existing 6 gage as I did. I hope my ill-informed misfortune will prompt them to upgrade their wiring as well. Thanks again for the sage advice.
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  4. #24
    Seasoned Camper
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    Quote Originally Posted by xrated View Post
    I have measured mine several times over a period of time with a clamp on amp meter. It's always right at 70 amps....+/- an amp or two. I replaced the 50A breaker in mine (2018 model) with an 80A and I also doubled the wiring......twin 6ga wires in parallel throughout that circuit.....including the cable that goes to ground/frame and then back to the battery.
    Just FYI NEC electrical code doesn't allow parallel cabling that small.
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  5. #25
    Site Team xrated's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RoyBell View Post
    Just FYI NEC electrical code doesn't allow parallel cabling that small.
    Does that include DC cables or is that 1/0 limit only for AC circuits? There is really no risk of induction heating with DC cable like there is with AC phases......plus the DC cables are not in any type of enclosure or raceway.
    Last edited by xrated; 10-10-2022 at 08:28 AM.
    2016 F350 CrewCab Dually
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  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by McDugals View Post
    Invert the extinguisher to loosen the powder.
    Interesting point. Would you elaborate? Do you mean to just invert and shake on occasion? Or is there any specific method to follow. Thanks.
    Chad
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  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by xrated View Post
    I have measured mine several times over a period of time with a clamp on amp meter. It's always right at 70 amps....+/- an amp or two. I replaced the 50A breaker in mine (2018 model) with an 80A and I also doubled the wiring......twin 6ga wires in parallel throughout that circuit.....including the cable that goes to ground/frame and then back to the battery.
    Quote Originally Posted by xrated View Post
    Does that include DC cables or is that 1/0 limit only for AC circuits?
    I believe it applies to both AC and DC. I looked through the code book and it doesn't make reference to AC or DC. Just voltages 0-2000 volts. According to Southwire, it's the same for AC and DC.

    https://www.southwire.com/calculator-vdrop

    Go to commercial 75 degrees and it lets you choose how many sets. @ 80 amps, 8' it is showing 4ga. Oddly enough if you choose residential it bumps it up to 3ga. We rate everything 75 degrees for AC in Chicago though.
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  8. #28
    Site Team xrated's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RoyBell View Post
    I believe it applies to both AC and DC. I looked through the code book and it doesn't make reference to AC or DC. Just voltages 0-2000 volts. According to Southwire, it's the same for AC and DC.

    https://www.southwire.com/calculator-vdrop

    Go to commercial 75 degrees and it lets you choose how many sets. @ 80 amps, 8' it is showing 4ga. Oddly enough if you choose residential it bumps it up to 3ga. We rate everything 75 degrees for AC in Chicago though.
    Yes, I saw zero reference as to if it applied to AC only or if both AC and DC. I do however believe that most of the NEC code regulations for that have AC in mind when regulations apply. It is likely, either over the off season or early spring next year, I am going to replace the parallel 6ga cables anyway. It will help "clean up" the wiring in that area. I presently have some 2ga welding cable left over from when I replaced and then relocated the Converter/Charger and went to a Meanwell NPB-750-12 inside the baggage compartment and made new runs of cable into the battery/generator front compartment. I just don't have quite enough to replace the entire 6ga parallel run with the 2ga stuff. Oh well, another project ahead of me, but that will be just one of many.
    2016 F350 CrewCab Dually
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    Excessive Payload is a Wonderful Thing

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  9. #29
    Seasoned Camper
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    Quote Originally Posted by xrated View Post
    Yes, I saw zero reference as to if it applied to AC only or if both AC and DC. I do however believe that most of the NEC code regulations for that have AC in mind when regulations apply. It is likely, either over the off season or early spring next year, I am going to replace the parallel 6ga cables anyway. It will help "clean up" the wiring in that area. I presently have some 2ga welding cable left over from when I replaced and then relocated the Converter/Charger and went to a Meanwell NPB-750-12 inside the baggage compartment and made new runs of cable into the battery/generator front compartment. I just don't have quite enough to replace the entire 6ga parallel run with the 2ga stuff. Oh well, another project ahead of me, but that will be just one of many.
    I don't write the codes and there are a lot of discrepancies in the book. Especially the 2018 Chicago code. They took a lot of sections out of NEC for this revision. I have come across quite a few that make references to codes that don't exist in the CEC book (they are in NEC though). So they incorrectly phrased NEC codes and send you on a goosehunt to look for code sections that aren't even in CEC.
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  10. #30
    Long Hauler offtohavasu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by traveldawg View Post
    OK. Good to know. At least that wire should be easy to replace. I'd probably replace that breaker too. Maybe get a name brand. I installed a generic one I got on Amazon and one member keeps reminding me it was a bad choice.

    And thanks to all who measured their current draw on that circuit. It was more than I would have guessed.
    They created a host of headaches when you did a remodel and had to change to ARC Fault breakers, to find out there was a ceiling fan on that bedroom circuit. Every time the fan switched on it would trip the breakers.
    Curtis, Christine, Cole, and Charlotte

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