Will one use of hydraulic levelers deplete battery? Schwintek won't move out?

[Second Chance]

Isn't only the -R versions that get 2 batteries? (I thought so but am really not sure)

Perhaps @huntr70 can answer that question for us. I would think that any of the Solitudes and Momentums with hydraulics would need two batteries... but that's just my opinion.

Rob

[huntr70]

Only the "R" -residential fridge equipped units get 2 batteries.

[dryfly]

Update; I have checked the control module for the schwinntek. It is showing a wire fault between the controller and the motor.

As you probably know by now, that fault code means there is an issue with getting 12vdc to the motor, or the motor is bad. As has been suggested, first thing to try is unplugging and reseating the wiring connector at the motor. I would also do the same at the controller.

Next would be determining if you are getting 12vdc to the motor when the slide switch is activated.

I had a similar issue a couple of months ago when one of my motors stopped working with the slide extended. In my case the cable from the controller to the motor got chewed up. From the controller, it is routed out of the frame, through the wheel well, and up into the interior of the trailer. The excess cable got pulled out of the frame into the wheel well and rubbed against the tire.

If I had just checked continuity of the cable first, I'd saved a lot of time.

[coastn]

Had the same problem with one Schwintech slide early in a two month trip this last spring. Mobile techs in three locations just to get it back in when stuck out so we could travel. Controller showed a wire fault. Each monkeyed with the motors and or controllers, but not a permanent fix. Finally left the slide in so we could continue traveling for the remaining one month. Just picked it up from dealer repair last week thankfully under warranty where they replaced the wiring harness after testing motor, controller, etc. Works fine now. Fingers crossed as we're heading out for six weeks after Labor Day.

[DECelt]

The manual makes an emergency push in sound pretty simple...was that not your experience?

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[coastn]

First mobile tech jiggled the wires at the top of the right side motor and the slide went in. I asked what he did to make it move and he said "I don't know". Moved on to Tucson. Called tech to replace water heater check valve and check out slide. We were there for two weeks so he tried to get controller to go into manual override mode. No go so he replaced the controller. Worked when tested but we didn't have to move yet. Day of move slide wouldn't go in. Tech replaced motor. Slide worked for three tests. Moved on to Needles. Slide went out, wouldn't come in next morning. Mobile tech came mid-afternoon. Tried to push in with helper without disconnecting motor. Wouldn't budge. He then (his words) tricked the controller into manual override by unplugging both motor connections at back of controller and pushing the button til the light blinked continuously. Wouldn't do that with the motor plugged in at first. Would blink for three seconds and go out. Slide came in and he said the problem is in the wiring harness. Moved on and decided to leave slide in until someone along our route could get us in for repair. Futile. Stayed in for rest of trip without even thinking of touching the switch. Purchasing dealer is 275 miles from home so routed to drop off on the way. Wrote up my experience with slide as well as a punch list for 3 other warranty issues. Also explained that I had three same opinions that the wiring harness was the problem. One opinion was that of a a former Grand Design rep working at a dealership in Bend, OR. Trailer is in Vernal, Utah for two months as they had to wait for GD to send a new fireplace. Get the call to come get and go over the list on the phone before departing. Assured that the slide is working as it should. Made the five hour drive and go to the trailer with one of their techs. First thing I push the out button for the slide and it goes out a foot and stops. Several tries, no improvement. We get the tech who worked on the trailer and he said he did everything but replace the wiring harness. My response to him would be censored here but included questioning his literacy. They said give them two hours to replace the wiring harness. Slide worked for tests and at campground in town to check out all punch list items. Towed home and then to storage lot and the slide has worked better than ever. Forgot to mention that early in the repair process I got a call from their service manager saying they thought the slide was not getting enough power and to add a 2nd battery. I responded that the other two Swintechs worked fine so that blew their theory. Am now keeping fingers crossed for our next trip which will be about six weeks beginning around Labor Day. Long story, but I'm sticking to it!

[DECelt]

My mobile tech won't come over until a new motor arrives as that is the "usual cause". I ordered a new wiring harness from Amazon just to hedge my bets. If I don't need it, then I can return it.
The hardest part is getting qualified techs.

The funny part is the guy two sites over has a Schwinntek in his new class A that won't go out.

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[dryfly]

My mobile tech won't come over until a new motor arrives as that is the "usual cause". I ordered a new wiring harness from Amazon just to hedge my bets.

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Motors are definitely a possibility and do go bad. But as I stated above, it is so easy to rule out the motor by simply making sure you are getting power to the motor from the controller first. It takes about 30 minutes to do this. Simply get access to the motor from inside the trailer behind the interior rubber slide seal, reseat the connector, and see if the slide works. If not, disconnect the connector and using a voltmeter, make sure you are getting 12vdc power to the motor (the red and black wire) when the slide switch is activated. This is really not that difficult.

If no power to motor, it's the wiring harness or the controller. If power is present then it's probably a bad motor.

Please correct me if I'm missing something.

[Ynot4me2]

When testing like @dryfly mentioned, disconnect both motors before activating the slide to test for power to prevent just 1 side from moving.

[dryfly]

When testing like @dryfly mentioned, disconnect both motors before activating the slide to test for power to prevent just 1 side from moving.

Absolutely right !! I should have added that. Also, disconnecting the non-problem motor at the controller is easier than at the motor. When disconnecting cables at controller, mark which one goes where.

One other thing. If no 12vdc present at motor connector, next step would be to run a continuity check on the wiring harness. If good, then the next suspect is the controller.

If I would have followed my suggestions, especially the continuity check, I would have saved a big headache and several hours of phone calls and work. But, these are the issues that make you stronger assuming they don't kill you.