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  1. #21
    Left The Driveway
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    I have been servicing wheel bearings on trailers and vehicles for a very long time. I was a mechanic for the military (everything the military has, has serviceable bearings) an ASE certified Master Mechanic. When done properly, there should be no "clunk" after the procedure is completed. A clunk will allow a bearing to ride up and down (Vice staying centered) on the race during cornering and loading/unloading events like bumps in the road creating heat and friction.

    If you are installing new bearings and races, it is critical to use a soft bearing race driver or brass drift and ensure the races are fully seated in the hubs. Many installation issues are because a race is not fully seated. Torqueing the wheel bearing as part of the pre-load sequence will not properly set a race! But, loading an axle and driving or pulling something down the road will when you take corners and bumps into the equation.

    When you torque the castle nut, this only loads the bearing assemblies and takes out any slack from the bearing to the race and sets everything on the spindle. Back it off until there is no load and then I typically go a 1/8 - 1/4 turn past zero play, then back of until the cotter pin alights to the hole. But there should always be a little tension on the bearing but only enough to ensure there is zero play.
    My Truck: 2016 Ram 3500 Laramie, CCLB SRW 4x4, 68RFE, 6.7 Cummins, rear air. MODS: MM3 w/tunes, EGR and grid heater delete, GDP airhorn and heater, ARP head studs, 5" TBE, billet VB, Thuren .5" lift/sway, Fox remote res shocks, Morimoto HIDs and LED fogs. My 5th Wheel: 2022 Grand Design 390 RK, 3 ACs, Gen Prep, too much storage ~16,500 rolling.

  2. #22
    Fireside Member
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    Just to confirm, the instructions I received over the phone from the service manager at the heavy trailer shop that originally installed the axles said for 8k hubs I should tighten the castle nut down to ~50ft-lbs, at which point I should not be able to feel any movement of the hub. Then back the castle nut off until it's loose, then finger tighten & snug it up to the nearest hole and slide the cotter pin back in, so that is how I did it. Once the wheel was reinstalled, there was no play then either, which matches the other wheels on my rig. Fingers crossed this continues to give me trouble-free service!
    2020 Ford F-350 XLT DRW Long Box w/ 6.7 Diesel & 3.55 Gear Ratio
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  3. #23
    Seasoned Camper
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    This is what Timken advises https://manuals.plus/timken/setting-...oller_bearings

    Recommended reading: Near beginning of document through MANUAL BEARING SETTING.

  4. #24
    Site Team Redapple63's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dryfly View Post
    Which is he trying to convey, a little side to side play or none? Obviously we are talking about side to side play, not rotational play. We know the wheel should turn freely after tightening. The video in post #18 gives perfect advice on tightening the retaining nut, but does not comment if any side to side (rocking the tire) should or should not be present.
    He is trying to convey just a bit of side to side movement meaning no side to side or lateral movement could mean too much preload. It needs to have rotational movement.
    2019 GMC 3500 SRW Sierra Denali Duramax
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  5. #25
    Left The Driveway
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    This method is fine. half-dozen one way, 6 the other. This is probably an easier method for someone who is not used to the "feel" of setting pre-load on a bearing which should be near zero after contact.

    I did leave out that you need to spin the wheel while tightening the 1/8-1/4 turn. That ensure there is no binding and that the should be no change to the "feel or drag" of the wheel turning which would indicate too much pre-load.
    My Truck: 2016 Ram 3500 Laramie, CCLB SRW 4x4, 68RFE, 6.7 Cummins, rear air. MODS: MM3 w/tunes, EGR and grid heater delete, GDP airhorn and heater, ARP head studs, 5" TBE, billet VB, Thuren .5" lift/sway, Fox remote res shocks, Morimoto HIDs and LED fogs. My 5th Wheel: 2022 Grand Design 390 RK, 3 ACs, Gen Prep, too much storage ~16,500 rolling.

  6. #26
    Seasoned Camper
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schoolbus View Post
    This method is fine. half-dozen one way, 6 the other. This is probably an easier method for someone who is not used to the "feel" of setting pre-load on a bearing which should be near zero after contact.

    I did leave out that you need to spin the wheel while tightening the 1/8-1/4 turn. That ensure there is no binding and that the should be no change to the "feel or drag" of the wheel turning which would indicate too much pre-load.
    If I am translating Timken Fig 2 Calculated L10 Life vs. Operating Setting graph. There is a very small gain in capacity with light preload but bearing life drops off quickly when tightened a bit too tight and there will be failure. A bit too much clearance reduces load capacity a small amount but does not cause failure in a bearing that is not excessively loaded. Another way to word this is if I made a small error and bearing was .003" preload or .006" clearance I would much prefer being too loose (clearance) and would be fine.
    Last edited by TimtheToolMan; 05-05-2022 at 08:30 PM.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by TimtheToolMan View Post
    If I am translating Timken Fig 2 Calculated L10 Life vs. Operating Setting graph. There is a very small gain in capacity with light preload but bearing life drops off quickly when tightened a bit too tight and there will be failure. A bit too much clearance reduces load capacity a small amount but does not cause failure in a bearing that is not excessively loaded. Another way to word this is if I made a small error and bearing was .003" preload or .006" clearance I would much prefer being too loose (clearance) and would be fine.
    This is correct. You really have no way to determine how tight they are if they are snug, but if they are barely loose, you can feel it.
    John & Kathy
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  8. #28
    Setting Up Camp
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    Lots of discussions on this forum aren't worth my time and are sometimes quite juvenile but, this one was intelligent and well done. Thanks!

  9. #29
    Rolling Along jleonard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Champ837 View Post
    Lots of discussions on this forum aren't worth my time and are sometimes quite juvenile but, this one was intelligent and well done. Thanks!
    This thread verified that I am assembling tapered bearings one of the correct ways.
    This is after watching 3 you tube videos, and reading the various methods described here.
    I can't "bear" to say which method I am using, just that it is one that was mentioned.
    Jay Leonard
    New Port Richey, Fl
    2022 Imagine 2600 RB, 2021 Ram 2500 CC Bighorn 6.7L Cummins

  10. #30
    Long Hauler huntindog's Avatar
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    I have been out hunting since I last posted here. I have only seen one tapered bearing application that actually requires preload. Differential ring gears. They like all others need to run at zero clearance. The reason for the preload is that under load the housing stretches a tiny bit. If they were setup at zero, then they would be loose under load. Some of my manuals actually give a spec for wheel bearing clearance. It can be measured with a dial caliper. Since most do not have this ( I do) following the procedure in the manual precisely will give good results.
    2021 398M Full Body Paint 8k axles. LRH tires. Disc brakes.
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