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Thread: One Wheel Heating up!
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05-16-2022, 09:03 PM #31
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Do you have any links to procedures to check wheel bearing clearance with dial calipers. I found a couple that used dial indicators, which I could do but more owners will have dial calipers.
For those who think that this discussion is getting too complicated and have always done wheel bearing adjustment without issues by feel or other methods. I will not disagree with you in the least. I am hoping for additional load safety factor when adjusting more accurately.
I will be greasing wheel bearings in a few weeks and plan to adjust clearance to closer to zero plus or minus instead my usual lightly hand snug and then loosen to get cotter pin installed. Loosening from snug produces the minor clunk feel when wiggling wheel, which I believe is fine. I recently was thinking about going from the lightly snug nut position turning nut in direction closest to cotter pin hole--either tightening or loosening but using other methods to make sure that I am not over tightening nut. Clearly I have too much time on my hands...
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05-23-2022, 09:17 AM #32
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Tapered bearing like to be set at zero at operating temperature. Since that rarely happens when you are servicing bearings, there is usually a preload or freeplay depending on how the bearings are used.
The hub will expand when heated. If you have zero load or preload cold, when the hub expands, the clearances get tighter. This causes more heat and guess what, the hub expands even more. At some point the bearing overheats and gets ruined. Braking on long passes will make this situation worst.
As pointed out, differential housings tend to expand when they get hot, guess what? That causes the clearance to loosen. That is why they have a preload on them when setting up the differential.
It's not that difficult to understand how a bearing works. It's not difficult to understand heat has a lot to do with this. Do as you wish, but I always have freeplay in my wheel bearings.
I've never understood why there is so much controversy over this.
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05-23-2022, 09:29 AM #33
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I believe a lot of the controversy revolves around the usage of the term "Preload", which in this case is a misnomer. These trailer wheel bearings have no preload, pure and simple. We need to get away from using the term when it comes to trailer wheel bearings. I would suggest either "Clearance" or "Free Play".
Howard and Peggy
2019 Momentum 351M, and 2018 RAM Cummins dually 6-speed.
His: 1999 Honda Interceptor
Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S
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05-23-2022, 09:36 AM #34
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Well stated.
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05-23-2022, 06:33 PM #35
Where I have seen the term "preload" used in the context of trailer bearings is in reference to the tightening of the castle nut. It seems there is the recommendation of initially tightening the nut (preload) to about 50 ft. lbs., then backing off before setting the nut to the actual running position.2020 Reflection 273MK
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05-23-2022, 08:44 PM #36
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Mark & Mary. Full-timing across the USA (and Canada)!
Current Coach: 2021 Grand Design Reflection 320MKS
Current Rig: 2019 Ford F350 SD Crew Cab, w/8' box, Lariat, SRW, 6.7l Diesel
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05-23-2022, 09:42 PM #37
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Howard and Peggy
2019 Momentum 351M, and 2018 RAM Cummins dually 6-speed.
His: 1999 Honda Interceptor
Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S
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05-24-2022, 06:54 PM #38
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You forgot to mention that you need to back off the nut before you put in the cotter pin. 6:17
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GnH-h3W9XvI
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05-24-2022, 07:00 PM #39
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Mark & Mary. Full-timing across the USA (and Canada)!
Current Coach: 2021 Grand Design Reflection 320MKS
Current Rig: 2019 Ford F350 SD Crew Cab, w/8' box, Lariat, SRW, 6.7l Diesel
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05-25-2022, 10:05 AM #40
No, I don't think you are being pedantic at all. This kinda stuff is interesting, and I enjoy learning the details.
But isn't "preload if the castle nut was not backed off" the same as tightening down the nut to 50 ft. lbs.? You tighten down the the nut to certain specs, and don't release it, isn't that pre-load?2020 Reflection 273MK
Reflection swivel table question
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