DIY Disk Brake Conversion.

[el Rojo]

Just a quick thought. When I installed mine I used the brake lines from a parts store in 2,3,4,5,and 6 foot sections that already had flared ends and couplers on them. I did this because I wanted straight lines to make the job look better. I realize I now have more connections that can leak, but once I got them tight I've had no issues. I also put mine on the outside of the I-beam (in the web) so 1, I could see the connections and 2, I could remove the underbelly with disturbing the brake system.

Hint* Get all connections tight before you secure to the I beam...ask me how I know.

Red

[phonemannn]

Performance Trailer Braking
Is who I got parts from. Sorry, not Stop your trailer. Was very happy with service....And parts.

[phonemannn]

Just a quick thought. When I installed mine I used the brake lines from a parts store in 2,3,4,5,and 6 foot sections that already had flared ends and couplers on them. I did this because I wanted straight lines to make the job look better. I realize I now have more connections that can leak, but once I got them tight I've had no issues. I also put mine on the outside of the I-beam (in the web) so 1, I could see the connections and 2, I could remove the underbelly with disturbing the brake system.

Hint* Get all connections tight before you secure to the I beam...ask me how I know.

Red

Here is mine

[Flyn2high]

Thanks so much for your recommendations, suggestions and photos. They were all very helpful to come to a decision. It is great to be able to get first had experience from so many for a topic that few would consider.

Today I placed an order with Bill at StopMyTrailer.com. I ordered the standard 7K rotors and bearings. I really would have preferred to have it installed but there is no one in my area back home that I really trust. I am very comfortable doing the most of the install. I will probably take three times as long to get it done but I am sure it will turn out good. One gray area is if I need to run new wiring for the breakaway switch. That would not be fun. I will have to buzz that out to see what is going on.

Since I am saving a ton on installation I plan to buy a good quality flaring tool to have the minimum of connections with our any excess. I also have my eye on a good grease packing tool and a set of heavy duty jack stands.

This morning very early New Years Eve we left NY in the Solitude and are about 1/3rd of the way to John Prince Campground in Lake Worth FL. My TV has diesel braking and tow haul mode which is a pleasure driving down long steep roads (if you are familiar with the I-81 route) Just before we got to our final destination tonight I had to stop for a red light on a very steep down grade. I was going slow but I had to really stand on the brakes to keep it from rolling.

I’m looking forward to working on it when I get back home in early March. I’ll post photos then.

[phonemannn]

I installed mine using just the Existing wire inside the pigtail. I used the unused yellow wire for breakaway function. Just tied one end of the switch to the Batt Plus where the lead comes into the RV, the other to the yellow wire, then the yellow to the wire intended for the breakaway function on disc brake unit. Inside the front compartment. Easy.
It is the wire used for backup lights, might be lavender...Looking at wiring diagram, yellow is for turn lights.....

[Flyn2high]

I installed mine using just the Existing wire inside the pigtail. I used the unused yellow wire for breakaway function. Just tied one end of the switch to the Batt Plus where the lead comes into the RV, the other to the yellow wire, then the yellow to the wire intended for the breakaway function on disc brake unit. Inside the front compartment. Easy.
It is the wire used for backup lights, might be lavender...Looking at wiring diagram, yellow is for turn lights.....

Thanks PhoneMann That sounds easy. I will check it out.

[phonemannn]

Thanks PhoneMann That sounds easy. I will check it out.

It is yellow in the coach. It is not tied down at the pigtail......under the fifth wheel box...

[Cate&Rob]

@Flyn2high,

Check out the attachments to the first posts on these threads for some ideas on installation and wiring.
https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...tem-Hydraulics
https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...-System-Wiring
Using pre-made brake lines as Red @el Rojo describes is far easier than using the flaring tool.

Rob

[wallymann]

Just got mine done, stop your trailer, and now it is an absolute joy to stop. I agree, that the brakes alone are do-able, and I was considering that as a project, but after researching my axels /springs, I decided to upgrade them as well. Apparently, it is industry standard, to just barely meets the empty weight in the specs for all the above. So loaded is over-grossed. That additional upgrade led me to refer to an installer (local trailer shop) for about $900. But the whole shootin match is still do-able if your handy and have a lot of jacks

[Tim2542]

Just a quick thought. When I installed mine I used the brake lines from a parts store in 2,3,4,5,and 6 foot sections that already had flared ends and couplers on them. I did this because I wanted straight lines to make the job look better. I realize I now have more connections that can leak, but once I got them tight I've had no issues. I also put mine on the outside of the I-beam (in the web) so 1, I could see the connections and 2, I could remove the underbelly with disturbing the brake system.

Hint* Get all connections tight before you secure to the I beam...ask me how I know.

Red

The brake line routing is why Id not let a certain popular installer do mine. Fast and easy on the brake lines with no concern about future access, and lines completely unsupported for as much as 8’ and hanging underneath the Corplast.