Trailer braking is weak... maybe?

[bryancass]

Not grounded to the frame. When I did mine I used a 12/2 marine wire. Both connected in the junction box where the 7 pin connector comes into the camper. I hooked the ground wire at the ground junction in the box and the +12v wire to the + brake wire off the 7 pin connector. I ran that wire all the way back to the brakes and tapped into it for each axle.

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Ah, OK so you did it a bit different from Flip94ta then. If it's 12ga wire coming back to the trailer junction box, then your way may be a bit better. Otherwise, I'd rather just run a second 14ga wire from the junction box to the curb side brakes.

[HampshireMan]

Please allow me to ask a question related to the beginning of this thread. I have a 230rl 2018 pulled by a 2015 Chev. Duramax 2500HD. It has the built in brake controller. When I apply the brakes should I see the little graphic of the trailer brakes on the Driver Information Center on the dash? Even though I haven't had any issues I am never sure the trailer brakes are working unless I apply them manually. Also, when on the highway every hour or two I get an alert to " check trailer wiring. " This then immediately changes to "trailer connected." Is this normal?

[bryancass]

Please allow me to ask a question related to the beginning of this thread. I have a 230rl 2018 pulled by a 2015 Chev. Duramax 2500HD. It has the built in brake controller. When I apply the brakes should I see the little graphic of the trailer brakes on the Driver Information Center on the dash? Even though I haven't had any issues I am never sure the trailer brakes are working unless I apply them manually. Also, when on the highway every hour or two I get an alert to " check trailer wiring. " This then immediately changes to "trailer connected." Is this normal?

It sounds like you may have a loose connection, or possibly the 7-way connector contacts are dirty. That same thing happened to me on a previous tow vehicle and it ended up being the connector, which I took apart, stripped and re-connected the wiring, and cleaned all of the contact points.

[jkwilson]

Please allow me to ask a question related to the beginning of this thread. I have a 230rl 2018 pulled by a 2015 Chev. Duramax 2500HD. It has the built in brake controller. When I apply the brakes should I see the little graphic of the trailer brakes on the Driver Information Center on the dash? Even though I haven't had any issues I am never sure the trailer brakes are working unless I apply them manually. Also, when on the highway every hour or two I get an alert to " check trailer wiring. " This then immediately changes to "trailer connected." Is this normal?

On GM trucks 14-16. It is normal. Something isn’t right and there is a TSB about it, but many people have problems with it. GM blames the quality of the trailer side plugs. IMO, there needs to be a recall because the trailer brakes are disabled when the alert comes on.

[M&Lcamping]

I just called the dealer and asked about what they do with brakes before selling a used camper -- they of course say they check the brakes (which I believe) because it has to pass NY state inspection. She said they do have a doohickey they can connect to the 7-way on the truck to make sure it's putting out the proper voltage for brakes, and if that's OK they'll check from there and see if there's a problem on the trailer. If that inspection is free, I'll have them do that and we'll see what I can then take home and fix.

So I perused through several feeds and @Jerryr looks to be where I would start if and only if your dealer does not rectify for you. If your controller circuit is not getting feed to the magnets nothing is going to happen. Since brake pads are to be adjusted annually and or by mileage it's a great thing to check but I'd say you have a voltage issue. Let's hope you win the dealer route, they should step up. It's a NY law right in sales of vehicles, RV's and the like for safety reasons so stick with that. If in fact it's not related to the trailer at all and is within the controller or wiring then that's going to rest in your lap.

[bryancass]

So I perused through several feeds and @Jerryr looks to be where I would start if and only if your dealer does not rectify for you. If your controller circuit is not getting feed to the magnets nothing is going to happen. Since brake pads are to be adjusted annually and or by mileage it's a great thing to check but I'd say you have a voltage issue. Let's hope you win the dealer route, they should step up. It's a NY law right in sales of vehicles, RV's and the like for safety reasons so stick with that. If in fact it's not related to the trailer at all and is within the controller or wiring then that's going to rest in your lap.

I'm thinking if this trailer has 16ga wire from one side to the other, and really needs 14ga to reduce resistance, then the dealer is not going to fix that, at least for free. I think I'll take a look and if mine is like that, I'll rewire the curb side brakes with its own 14ga wire from the junction box.

[mostad]

I have a 2016 Silverado 1500 LTZ with trailer package, so the trailer brake control is built in. I have a 2017 GD 2150RB trailer.

I just got the truck and trailer last year and took one trip with it. In the truck owner's manual, it says how to adjust the trailer brake gain:

1) Go at least 25mph
2) Set the trailer brake gain to 1 and pinch the brake switch.
3) Increase gain higher until pinching the switch causes the trailer brakes to lock up.
4) Then back off 1 step on the gain.

I got all the way to 10 on mine and the brakes never locked up. Do I need new pads maybe? Does anyone else have a Silverado 1500 and a similar weight trailer and have to set gain to 10?

So I had the same issue you are talking about with my 2020 Momentum, so I checked the baking plates and 2 were greasy. Pulled cleaned and reinstalled. Still the same issue so I order a disk brake kit. I must say it is money well spent, I have pulled many trailers over many miles and this is far the best upgrade I have ever done.

When I went to do the upgrade 3 of the 4 brakes were greasy, I’m including a few photos. I did ask for GD to give me reimbursement for just the Stock brake replacement parts after I did the conversion and I was denied. I am ok with that knowing now I have a much better system.

Good luck

[bryancass]

So I had the same issue you are talking about with my 2020 Momentum, so I checked the baking plates and 2 were greasy. Pulled cleaned and reinstalled. Still the same issue so I order a disk brake kit. I must say it is money well spent, I have pulled many trailers over many miles and this is far the best upgrade I have ever done.

When I went to do the upgrade 3 of the 4 brakes were greasy, I’m including a few photos. I did ask for GD to give me reimbursement for just the Stock brake replacement parts after I did the conversion and I was denied. I am ok with that knowing now I have a much better system.

Good luck

Thanks for the pics. That's crazy... and a major safety issue. Didn't someone say that LCI would send out replacement brake assemblies and seals at least?

What is the cost of the disk brake upgrade? Is it a bolt-on replacement, or is there drilling and tapping involved?

[mostad]

Thanks for the pics. That's crazy... and a major safety issue. Didn't someone say that LCI would send out replacement brake assemblies and seals at least?

What is the cost of the disk brake upgrade? Is it a bolt-on replacement, or is there drilling and tapping involved?

They will but I wasn’t going to mess around with electric drum brakes anymore.

I picked up my kit from Bill at https://stopyourtrailer.com and I went to oil bath hubs,. The cost was around $2005, this included new lug nuts because I had to go to the 8k hubs (bigger outer bearing) which in turn gives you 9/16” studs. I installed it myself and mounted the hydraulic system under one of my lp tanks.

[mostad]

Thanks for the pics. That's crazy... and a major safety issue. Didn't someone say that LCI would send out replacement brake assemblies and seals at least?

What is the cost of the disk brake upgrade? Is it a bolt-on replacement, or is there drilling and tapping involved?

Sorry missed a question. Only drilling and tapping was how I mounted my hydraulic pump. I drilled the frame and tapped it for a bolts, I’m not a big fan to use a self tapper on something I really don’t want to fall off.

Other then that it a simple process if you have some mechanical skill. I did cut and Re-flare the long brake long because I didn’t want to have any extra loops in the line.