Fridge Lo Dc code

**gerryball** · 03-25-2020, 03:44 PM

I'm getting a LoDc code on my fridge. I'm plugged into shore power and after about 2 hours of having the tank heaters on this code pops up. As soon as I turn the heaters off the code goes off. Not sure why this is happening. Does anyone have an idea on what's going on? Tried calling my dealership and of course they are closed due to this virus. Not a big deal because we are home bound ourselves but want to get this thing figured out because once things get back to normal "We're outta here"

Gerryball

**CoChris** · 03-25-2020, 07:07 PM

Possible cause is "LoDc" = Low DC (battery voltage). This fits with your tank heaters on you are using DC current. I would expect a good converter (120v to 12 DC) would have enough capacity to supply the required current if you are on shore power. Another possibility is your batteries are in poor condition or the battery disconnect (big red switch) is turned off. If you are comfortable, can you measure the DC voltage inside the trailer (at the distribution panel?) and at the battery(ies) and let us now what the readings are?

Some more information might get you a better (more specific) answer. What trailer (year line and model - very helpful to put in a signature) do you have. Specifics such as what refrigerator (brand and model), are you on shore power, any other large 12V (DC) current draw (furnace blower can be a big draw, but should not be on all the time), how old are the battery(ies)? All these help people narrow down the possible causes.

Chris

**gerryball** · 03-26-2020, 05:30 PM

Thanks Chris for the update:

My 303RLS is a 2020 and we've only used it a couple of times so I'm hoping the convert or the batteries aren't bad. My dealership did install a second battery because we dry camp a lot an need the extra battery power. The code is still coming on after about an hour of the tank heaters being on and I can hear the convert running continuously. We've had another code (L1op) but found a fix for it by resetting the module.

The DC voltage reads 13.6 on the panel and the Auto leveling box. Also all the lights are on when I push the battery test on the panel. I guess what confuses me is why the code comes on when I'm plugged into shore power. One thing is I'm only plugged into a 30amp plug. Could that have something to do with it.

Our trailer is scheduled to go back into the dealership for some warranty work once our Great President decides it's safe to get back to normal. I am hoping it's an easy fix, because we need to get on the road.

Thanks again and if you can think of anything else-I'm all ears.

Gerry

**CoChris** · 03-26-2020, 11:22 PM

Originally Posted by gerryball

Thanks Chris for the update:

My 303RLS is a 2020 and we've only used it a couple of times so I'm hoping the convert or the batteries aren't bad. My dealership did install a second battery because we dry camp a lot an need the extra battery power. The code is still coming on after about an hour of the tank heaters being on and I can hear the convert running continuously. We've had another code (L1op) but found a fix for it by resetting the module.

The DC voltage reads 13.6 on the panel and the Auto leveling box. Also all the lights are on when I push the battery test on the panel. I guess what confuses me is why the code comes on when I'm plugged into shore power. One thing is I'm only plugged into a 30amp plug. Could that have something to do with it.

Our trailer is scheduled to go back into the dealership for some warranty work once our Great President decides it's safe to get back to normal. I am hoping it's an easy fix, because we need to get on the road.

Thanks again and if you can think of anything else-I'm all ears.

Gerry

Hi Gerry. If you are getting the 13.6V DC at the refrigerator (that would be the next thing to check), then I suspect it is a bad controller board or a bad connection in the refrigerator. Another possibility is the converter is putting out to much ripple (AC) voltage on the DC and confusing the refrigerator controller board. Both of those will take a little more work to track down. I have a Solitude. If your Reflection has the same 55 amp WFCO converter as mine (I think they do), it should have enough capacity to run things, but the tank heaters do draw significant power. Each one of my heaters draw about 5 amps. So when all four (I have four tanks) are on that is 20 of the available 55 amps. Again, it depends on what you have turned on. The WFCO is not known as a great converter and pushing it near its capacity may cause voltage or ripple issues. 30A shore power should be enough to run the trailer. Again, it really depends on what else you have turned on, what is the total power draw. Some parks have low voltage or power power drop at the pedestal. This can cause issues as well.

Sorry, I am throwing a lot of things out there. Depending on your skill and comfort level with electricity and equipment, I would pull the external panel off the refrigerator and check the DC voltage at the refrigerator and the AC ripple too, while it is throwing the code. If you are not sure what I am talking about, I would have the dealer check into it. Try to note everything you have turned on so the dealer can hopefully duplicate the problem.

Good luck

Chris

**gerryball** · 03-28-2020, 05:36 AM

Thanks Chris for the update. BUT I have to tell you I'm a dumbass. Yesterday I was thinking about my convert problem and I realized that when I said I had 13.6 voltages on my meters I was still plugged into shore power. So I unplugged and the meter went down to almost nothing. So the heaters are draining the batts down and the convert is not charging them up fast enough. That's the reason the code is flashing. After reading your latest post it seems to be a common problem. I have changed out the convert in my last trailer but this trailer is still under warranty so I'll wait until my dealership repairs it. Do you think a bigger amp convert would keep the batts up? A good thing is Spring/Summer is on the way so I will not be needing the heaters until next Fall/Winter. Hopefully we are over this virus problem by Summer so we can hit the road. I feel a little guilty saying that because of so many of our fellow Americans are hurting physically and financially, but I spent over 40 years working and now it's my time to travel.

Thanks again for all your help and will be thankful for any other advise you have.

Gerry

**CoChris** · 03-28-2020, 12:34 PM

Hi @gerryball. Not "dumbass" at all. We just have to work through the problems (and we have ALL been there in one way or another

). I am glad that you have (hopefully) found the issue. That is most of the battle. One other thing I would check (and double/triple check) is that your main battery disconnect switch is in fact turned on ans letting the converter change your battery(ies). Easy to do with a multi-meter. With the shore power disconnected and most (including your tanks heaters and furnace blower) 12V loads turned off, measure the voltage across the battery terminals. Ideally it should be around 12.5~13.0V. Then plug in your shore power and recheck the voltage at the battery terminals. It should be above 13.0V if the converter is working correctly. 13.6V would be a typical "float" (normal charge) voltage. If no increase in voltage at the battery when on shore power, check the disconnect switch (turn it on-off-on a few times, make sure the key can not be removed - that is the "on" position). If your no load battery voltage (no shore power) is below 12.0V your battery is deeply discharged. If they are below 11.5~11.75V they are deeply discharged and maybe damaged. Exact voltage vs charge levels depends on temperature.

I had expected by now that someone with a Reflection 303RLS would chime in on what converter they have (I do not know that specific trailer). If it is the same 55 amp WFCO unit I have in the Solitude, I would expect it could handle the load. Again, this depends on what other loads you have on the 12V system. The dealer should check the total load on your 12V system, but the tank heaters (at least mine) are temperature controlled. If it warms up the heaters may turn off (even with the switch "on"). Of course, you may also have a bad converter. If you up size the converter, ideally you should increase the size of wire to the distribution (fuse) panel and to the battery.

The COVID-19 has, and will continue to impact everyone in some way, now and for a long time to come. We will weather the storm, but it will cost in many ways. Do not feel guilty for look forward to better times. We all need to have hope and plans (for good and bad). My thoughts and prayers go out to the county.

Chris

**Rideblue51** · 03-28-2020, 06:08 PM

Speaking of dumbass, that's me. As I read this post and see the comments I keep wondering why there is a DC code at all on the fridge that should be running on AC if plugged in. Is it a DC fridge? Mine is AC or propane in my Reflection 337. Just curious.

**CoChris** · 03-28-2020, 06:20 PM

Originally Posted by Rideblue51

Speaking of dumbass, that's me. As I read this post and see the comments I keep wondering why there is a DC code at all on the fridge that should be running on AC if plugged in. Is it a DC fridge? Mine is AC or propane in my Reflection 337. Just curious.

The heaters in an RV refrigerator run on either propane or 120v AC, but the control board (required to run the refrigerator) is 12V DC. This is the same for your water heater.

Chris

**gerryball** · 03-28-2020, 07:05 PM

Thanks guys for all the info. I do know the converter has been recharging the batts because it doesn't take long for both batts to register being full. So I'm hoping it's something easy to fix. I did check the batt disconnect switch and it is turned on so that's not the problem. I'm not sure if my heaters do turn off when it warms up so I better add that to the list of things I need to talk to my service tech about. Will continue to work on the problem. Trouble is our dealership usually has a 10 to 15 day turn-around and times a wasting

Chris, I see by your travel map you haven't been to California. We live just a little ways from the angle on the Nevada border on Hwy 70 which is the next hwy north of I-80 over the Sierra's. Reno is only 90 miles away and is our closest McDonalds. If you do come to our state better bring you wallet because fuel is sometimes a $1 more a gallon than in Nevada.

Again thanks for the help and stay in touch.

Gerry(Dumbass #1 )

**Ralphster** · 03-28-2020, 08:27 PM

Our Refrigerator has stopped cooling. worked fine for 4 week Arizona trip. Then stopped cooling. LP burns and AC works. can't see any evidence of leaks. I've had a tech friend look at it and he thinks it's not circulating ammonia..thus "plugged." We are second owners so not under warranty. Bummer. I have an appointment for a dealership to look at it but expecting to have to replace unit or whole Refer. Ugh! Anyone have any suggestions?

Ralph