Generator

[BogeyBoyNevada]

We have been thinking of purchasing a inverter/generator to try dry camping. Have been looking up various brands, etc. A question: would a Champion 2500 service our basic needs? No A/C but keep lights powered, and refer. Probably most important, with unit on, could my wife run her hair dryer?
Thanks

[Soundsailor]

We have been thinking of purchasing a inverter/generator to try dry camping. Have been looking up various brands, etc. A question: would a Champion 2500 service our basic needs? No A/C but keep lights powered, and refer. Probably most important, with unit on, could my wife run her hair dryer?
Thanks

You don't say which coach you have, but in general, yes a 2,500-watt generator should be able to handle your stated needs. Add a soft start or similar device and you could have A/C. Maybe not everything at once.

[Tigger1]

Like @Soundsailor said don’t run it all at one time.

Just looking at a Champion 2500W inverter generator at Tractor Supply for example, its running watts are 1850W. Amps = Watts / Volts, so 1850 / 120 = 15.4 Amps.

Based on our own trailer, an absorption refrigerator (not 12V) on electric takes about 2A, lights can vary depending on how many we use so figure 2A, hair dryer about 13A startup then about 12A running. AC 13A start (without Softstart) 12A running, Microwave 12A, one cup coffee maker 4A, HWH 13A on electric. You can begin to see your electrical usage would need to be managed. The fridge and HWH can be run on propane to minimize usage. If you have an appliance, say a CPAP machine, try to find the Watts then convert it to amps like above.

[xrated]

Like @Soundsailor said don’t run it all at one time.

Just looking at a Champion 2500W inverter generator at Tractor Supply for example, its running watts are 1850W. Amps = Watts / Volts, so 1850 / 120 = 15.4 Amps.

Based on our own trailer, an absorption refrigerator (not 12V) on electric takes about 2A, lights can vary depending on how many we use so figure 2A, hair dryer about 13A startup then about 12A running. AC 13A start (without Softstart) 12A running, Microwave 12A, one cup coffee maker 4A, HWH 13A on electric. You can begin to see your electrical usage would need to be managed. The fridge and HWH can be run on propane to minimize usage. If you have an appliance, say a CPAP machine, try to find the Watts then convert it to amps like above.

When a squirrel cage induction motor starts, like the motor in the A/C unit, they can pull up to 4 times their running current. It is what is called Locked Rotor Amperage (LRA). It's only that high for milli-seconds and the instant that the rotor starts turning, the current starts coming down. If you ever get a chance, find the data plate on your A/C unit (probably inside the cover up on the roof) and see what it has for LRA....I've seen 53/54 amps before, depending on whether its a 13.5K BTU or a 15k BTU unit....and how old the unit is.

The soft start would likely take that starting current down to 18 to 20 amps on start up, which is obviously better that without it. Some generators will handle that type of inrush current, some won't.

[BogeyBoyNevada]

Thank you for the information

[jmbopp]

My old Honda 2000 will run the microwave, hair dryer, and converter (just not all at once.) It will not run the AC, but I may put a soft start kit on and try it.

[Tigger1]

@jmbopp

I just responded in another thread with a link to a review of the new SoftStartUp plug-in controller that may be of interest. See link, post#34. The price could be a deterrent though.

https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...464#post443464

[stroguy]

Predator 3500 is $799 this weekend at Harbor Freight.

[Pap and Mimi]

I have a Briggs 4500 inverter and it will start and run the A/C with the elec water heater going, meter showed little capacity left though. Haven't tried it with both A/C, but it also does fine with microwave and A/C (made sure elec water heater off).
It fits under my bed cover so travel, so that is a plus too.