Am I Lithium Ready??

[SolarPoweredRV]

I have seen a number of post related to Solar RV and Camping and have search the forums to help educate myself on these systems. I currently have 2 Flooded 12V Batteries that are around 65 Amp Hour each. My Power Set up on the Camper (Solitude 310GK-R) includes a Jaboni JP-300, 300W Panel, a Jaboni SC-30A-MPPT Solar Charge Controller, a WFCO-9855-AD Converter, and a WFCO WF-5110R 1000W Inverter. I have added both a positive and a negative BUS Bar, and a Renogy 500A Battery Monitor with Shunt.

I will primarily be camping with Shore Power hook up, but because the camper is not at our home, there are times where I will turn on the inverter and the Refrigerator (Residential) a day or so prior to departure to get it cool for traveling. We will then travel a couple times a year overnight without shore power. (Pennsylvania to Florida), etc.

With the Converter and Charge Controller, it seems to me I should be able to add a 200AH Lithium LiFePO4 battery to enable the refrig and a few lights to support us during these couple of trips / Overnight running of the Fridge. Am I missing anything in my set up that would prevent me from switching from Flood to LiFePO4 Batteries @ the 200AH range? I do realize that unless i pick a battery with low temp control and management, that could be an issue with my WFCO and Jaboni set up as neither appears to allow low temp charge management.

Thanks in Advance

You can easily deal with the Low Temp charging issue by placing your batteries under the stairs inside the heated hold and disconnecting the Solar whenever the coach is in storage. This is part of the way I solved the cold temp issue on my battery bank (see note below). There is plenty of room under the stairs for your battery(ies) and you can install a plywood board on the back of the stairs to mount your electronic components.

FYI: I protected my batteries with a thermostatic sensor inside the battery box that disconnects all charging below 34 degrees (my batteries did not come with a BMS), I also don't winterize my camper, I just monitor the cold weather and turn the furnace on low if a freeze is in the forecast (we have a large enough battery bank to run the furnace without worry). If we are camping in cold temperatures the hold will be heated from the furnace and there is no concern about the batteries freezing.

[Revis1986]

[QUOTE=crv0262;451006

"I will primarily be camping with Shore Power hook up, but because the camper is not at our home, there are times where I will turn on the inverter and the Refrigerator (Residential) a day or so prior to departure to get it cool for traveling. We will then travel a couple times a year overnight without shore power."

Same issue here and just installed a 200AH Ampere battery, shunt, 9160ALV, CW Fob last week. First test in storage running frig on highest draw after 26hours SOC was 72%. Of course no lights were on and lots of Sun, so solar helped some. I am confident we can pack our fridge a day or two before trip and be fine.

[crv0262]

Yes - Your right, I do have a 2000W WFCO-5220 Inverter.
I need to look into the DC to DC Charger....With significant travel planned, that might be a good add to the system.
Thanks

I just added the Victron Orion-TR Smart 12/12 30amp DC-DC Charger. I'll be interested to see how the Jaboni Solar Charger and the Victron DC-DC play together. I am assuming both get some type of feedback from the battery SOC, that enables them to migrate from Bulk to Float to Maintenance Mode. Interested to see after spending a 10hr day on the road, in an upcomming trip from Pa to Fl using the Fridge, how the Flood batteries hold up.

[crv0262]

One more question, my batteries are connected through both a positive and a negative bus bar. If I add a Victron Smart Battery Sense, do I need 2 (one for each battery, or because of the bus bar, is the second a waste as the voltage of the batteries will read identical, because they are physically connected?

Will the Victron Smart Battery Sense will connect, through BlueTooth to the Jaboni C-30A-MPPT Solar Charge Controller or will it only work with a Victron MPPT?

Thanks again!!

[Soundsailor]

One more question, my batteries are connected through both a positive and a negative bus bar. If I add a Victron Smart Battery Sense, do I need 2 (one for each battery, or because of the bus bar, is the second a waste as the voltage of the batteries will read identical, because they are physically connected?

Will the Victron Smart Battery Sense will connect, through BlueTooth to the Jaboni C-30A-MPPT Solar Charge Controller or will it only work with a Victron MPPT?

Thanks again!!

Probably with a bus bar installation, you'd only need one. But why would you, the Victron unit will most likely not work with the Jaboni. If it were me I would replace the Jaboni with a Victron charge controller instead.

[crv0262]

Thanks all for the great feedback.

I moved forward with:
- Pair of Ampere LIFEPO4, 200Ah Plus batteries, that have a 200A BMS
- Victron MPPT 100/30 Smart Solar Charger,
- Progressive Dynamics PD9160ALV 12V Lithium Ion Battery Converter/Charger - 60 Amp,
- Victron 30a DC to DC charger,
- Victron Energy Lynx Distributor.

I am configuring the battery box with an Inkbird All-Purpose Digital Temperature Controller, connected to two iPower Heat Pads (Low Temp Protection for the Batteries).

Is it safe to use the PDI Charger to initially charge the LIFEPO4 batties? I am assuming I would connect one battery at a time until fully charged and then can balance to two batteries, prior to connecting the Solar Charger (& the Inverter).

THanks again!

[ExNihilo]

I have seen a number of post related to Solar RV and Camping and have search the forums to help educate myself on these systems. I currently have 2 Flooded 12V Batteries that are around 65 Amp Hour each. My Power Set up on the Camper (Solitude 310GK-R) includes a Jaboni JP-300, 300W Panel, a Jaboni SC-30A-MPPT Solar Charge Controller, a WFCO-9855-AD Converter, and a WFCO WF-5110R 1000W Inverter. I have added both a positive and a negative BUS Bar, and a Renogy 500A Battery Monitor with Shunt.

I will primarily be camping with Shore Power hook up, but because the camper is not at our home, there are times where I will turn on the inverter and the Refrigerator (Residential) a day or so prior to departure to get it cool for traveling. We will then travel a couple times a year overnight without shore power. (Pennsylvania to Florida), etc.

With the Converter and Charge Controller, it seems to me I should be able to add a 200AH Lithium LiFePO4 battery to enable the refrig and a few lights to support us during these couple of trips / Overnight running of the Fridge. Am I missing anything in my set up that would prevent me from switching from Flood to LiFePO4 Batteries @ the 200AH range? I do realize that unless i pick a battery with low temp control and management, that could be an issue with my WFCO and Jaboni set up as neither appears to allow low temp charge management.

Thanks in Advance

First let me say there are others with far more experience to listen to but I will tell you my experience:

I had to pull the PDI and the WFCO, i could not get it to work right even with the magic dongle thing for the PDI.
I did buy a Victron IP22 and charge each battery alone then let them sit for 2 days before putting them together.

I then let them even out for 2 days before adding to the entire system.
I do have Ampere Time batteries and love them you were smart to address the warmth protection.
My system is a Victron Inverter/Charger so those items (the WFCO and PDI) became redundant.

Just my experience. I would wait for SolarPoweredRV or one of the other guys much smarter than me who may better be able to think through your system.

Good Luck and enjoy the journey!

[SolarPoweredRV]

Thanks all for the great feedback.

I moved forward with:
- Pair of Ampere LIFEPO4, 200Ah Plus batteries, that have a 200A BMS
- Victron MPPT 100/30 Smart Solar Charger,
- Progressive Dynamics PD9160ALV 12V Lithium Ion Battery Converter/Charger - 60 Amp,
- Victron 30a DC to DC charger,
- Victron Energy Lynx Distributor.

I am configuring the battery box with an Inkbird All-Purpose Digital Temperature Controller, connected to two iPower Heat Pads (Low Temp Protection for the Batteries).

Is it safe to use the PDI Charger to initially charge the LIFEPO4 batties? I am assuming I would connect one battery at a time until fully charged and then can balance to two batteries, prior to connecting the Solar Charger (& the Inverter).

THanks again!

Looks like you have made some good choices for upgrading your system.

You didn't mention any fuses for the new batteries, you will need to fuse your battery output to match the capacity of your cables and amperage draw of your Inverter. Note: you can oversize your cables to future proof your installation and use lower amp fuses to match the current draw of your existing Inverter (based on the first posting I am assuming you have a 1,500 or 2,000 Watt Inverter).

I would also suggest you check the gauge of all the wiring (Converter, Inverter) to ensure your new batteries and Converter do not exceed the capacity of the existing wires.

When it comes to installing your DC to DC Charger, many people use the Anderson connector, I decided I wanted something better, so I installed a two prong "Lift Gate" connector similar to the one in the link below. I mounted this next to the existing 7-pin connector in my truck bed.

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Wir...0aAu5sEALw_wcB


Good Luck and Good Travels with your new system.

[crv0262]

Looks like you have made some good choices for upgrading your system.

You didn't mention any fuses for the new batteries, you will need to fuse your battery output to match the capacity of your cables and amperage draw of your Inverter. Note: you can oversize your cables to future proof your installation and use lower amp fuses to match the current draw of your existing Inverter (based on the first posting I am assuming you have a 1,500 or 2,000 Watt Inverter).

I would also suggest you check the gauge of all the wiring (Converter, Inverter) to ensure your new batteries and Converter do not exceed the capacity of the existing wires.

When it comes to installing your DC to DC Charger, many people use the Anderson connector, I decided I wanted something better, so I installed a two prong "Lift Gate" connector similar to the one in the link below. I mounted this next to the existing 7-pin connector in my truck bed.

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Wir...0aAu5sEALw_wcB


Good Luck and Good Travels with your new system.

David - Thanks for the feedback.

On the wire gauging and fuses I went with the following:

DC to DC Converter. This is fed from the truck battery with a 30amp fuse at the truck battery and 1 gauge wire with a run of about 40 feed total from the truck to the trailers power disconnect, to a 30 amp fuse, to the DC to DC Converter. The feed from the DC to DC into the Lynx Energy Distributor is 6 gauge welding wire. I very much like the two prong plug you suggested (Installed at about the 25ft point in the 40ft run), as I did not like the anderson type - New Two Prong now on order

The Converter to the Lynx Energy Distributor uses the 6 gauge the was provided by the factory. This has a power disconnect mounted prior to the Lynx and is fused within the Lynx with a 30 amp fuse

Solar from the Panel to a power disconnect uses the factory provided 6 gauge wire. From the power disconnect to the Victron MPPT 100/30 Smart Solar Charger I am using 6ga welding wire. It is also 6 gauge welding wire from the Smart Solar Charger to the Lynx Enery Distributor.

The 2000 watt Inverter feed has Factory provided 4/0 wire, through a factory provided 300amp fuse. This does connect into the Lynx with a second 300amp fuse @ the Lynx

Battery to Battery Balance cable is 6 gauge welding wire. The battery feeds to the Lynx are 1/0. I put a power disconnect on the front of the positive feed into the Lynx to enable shut off of the battery

The Battery Negative feed to the shunt is also 1/0. The shunt to the Lynx is also 1/0

The Lynx to chassis ground is 1/0 as well.

I may eventurally replace the line from the converter to the lynx. I'd really like this run to be 2ga or 4ga, vs the factory 6ga.

The Victron DC to DC and Solar Charge Controller are limited to 6ga on the input/output side. I used a high grade welding wire with Farrells to help support these lines.

Thanks again for all the insights!!

[SolarPoweredRV]

David - Thanks for the feedback.

On the wire gauging and fuses I went with the following:

DC to DC Converter. This is fed from the truck battery with a 30amp fuse at the truck battery and 1 gauge wire with a run of about 40 feed total from the truck to the trailers power disconnect, to a 30 amp fuse, to the DC to DC Converter. The feed from the DC to DC into the Lynx Energy Distributor is 6 gauge welding wire. I very much like the two prong plug you suggested (Installed at about the 25ft point in the 40ft run), as I did not like the anderson type - New Two Prong now on order

The Converter to the Lynx Energy Distributor uses the 6 gauge the was provided by the factory. This has a power disconnect mounted prior to the Lynx and is fused within the Lynx with a 30 amp fuse

Solar from the Panel to a power disconnect uses the factory provided 6 gauge wire. From the power disconnect to the Victron MPPT 100/30 Smart Solar Charger I am using 6ga welding wire. It is also 6 gauge welding wire from the Smart Solar Charger to the Lynx Enery Distributor.

The 2000 watt Inverter feed has Factory provided 4/0 wire, through a factory provided 300amp fuse. This does connect into the Lynx with a second 300amp fuse @ the Lynx

Battery to Battery Balance cable is 6 gauge welding wire. The battery feeds to the Lynx are 1/0. I put a power disconnect on the front of the positive feed into the Lynx to enable shut off of the battery

The Battery Negative feed to the shunt is also 1/0. The shunt to the Lynx is also 1/0

The Lynx to chassis ground is 1/0 as well.

I may eventurally replace the line from the converter to the lynx. I'd really like this run to be 2ga or 4ga, vs the factory 6ga.

The Victron DC to DC and Solar Charge Controller are limited to 6ga on the input/output side. I used a high grade welding wire with Farrells to help support these lines.

Thanks again for all the insights!!

You might want to check the specs on your DC to DC Converter, it may be able to draw a 45 or 60 amp surge, consequently, you may want to increase the fuse amperage to match. For example: my Converter's output is rated at 20 amps with 30 amps surge (24v output) which means I had to have a 60 amp fuse at the 12v battery (note: 60 amps because mu output is 24 volts, not 12 volts). I also needed to cable the 12v portion of my circuit to handle the 60 amps.