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09-03-2021, 08:51 PM #41
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There is always the option of checking https://www.campgroundreviews.com to see if someone has made a comment about power and then choosing whether to use that campground or not. Everyone is posting their experiences there - aren't they? You should. I could use the info so I can avoid those places.
Larry KE4DMG
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09-03-2021, 10:12 PM #42
Oh look, the autoformer/autotransformer debate again... I really hoped Mike Sokul was going to put the matter to bed on his deep testing dive in late 2020, but after 3 installments his work with the Hughes just died an he went on with other articles and studies... Maybe his findings supported the concern... I'm not here for this debate, but I did notice some misconception stated in this thread.
The problem of low voltage exists at old and new campgrounds alike... The Code actually allows for the proliferation of the problem within campgrounds with high occupancy. This is the direct result of application of the demand factors.
We travel near and far and stay in a host of campgrounds from State parks to private resorts to rented timeshared sites. Have encountered low voltage commonly throughout the last two summer seasons with jam-packed camping weekends, and of course, zero issues Tuesday through Thursday at them!Rob & Nikki + Cloverfield
2020 Grand Design Solitude S-Class 3350RL
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Mountains of Pennsylvania
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09-04-2021, 05:30 AM #43
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In addition to infrastructure and demand/supply issues, add in staffing as well. We were in a Mississippi state park in July and had issues with the pedestal on 2 adjacent sites. The poor campground technician did everything he could and between him and me we managed to get both working. However, during the conversation, he told me that the state of MS has one part time licensed electrician for all of their state parks. I can’t say enough good things about that young man, but the state sure is putting him in a tough spot.
2021 F350 CCSB 4x4 SRW with Air Lift springs
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Formerly REI 6 man tent
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09-08-2021, 10:29 PM #44
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I had the open ground alert last week when I plugged in to the park. I moved the cord around and got a connection that is holding for now. If it occurs again and I bypass, what do I need to be cautious of? How do I determine if the problem is my cord or their recepticle? THANKS--Jerry
2015 Ram Tradesman 3500 DRW puck-B&W
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09-09-2021, 04:58 AM #45
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It depends on which part of your cord you moved around. If the end at the post, it's likely the connector/outlet in the post. Also check and see that there's no pitting or burn marks from arcing on the prongs on the connector on your cord. Otherwise, it's very rare for one of these heavy 50-amp power cords to go bad without some help (like getting run over by a vehicle).
RobU.S. Army Retired
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(Previously in a Reflection 337RLS)
Full time since 08/2015
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09-09-2021, 08:23 AM #46
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Thanks Second chance. I will leave it be until I move; then how can I check the cord ground with an ohm meter?
2015 Ram Tradesman 3500 DRW puck-B&W
2015 Reflection 29RS
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09-09-2021, 09:15 AM #47
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Re: Open Ground…as Second chance mentioned, it is likely a corroded surface either on your plug or the pedestal receptacle. I carry sandpaper and dielectric grease onboard to clean up my plug when i get that error.
Re: Issue with cable…as mentioned this is very unlikely but as the cable ages the likelihood increases. Since it is intermittent you will have to narrow it down to a certain movement or position of the cable then stick an ohm meter on the ground pin (other side on trailer frame) and repeat the movement or position to see if it shows “open”.
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09-09-2021, 09:25 AM #48
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If you really meant dielectric grease, it is silicone-based and does not conduct electricity. It is not meant for application directly on the mating surfaces of connectors. If it's labeled "electrically conductive," it's OK for that application.
Unplug your cable and use your ohmmeter to test continuity for each conductor between one end and the other. You should get readings of no more than a couple of ohms. Again - not the likely source of the issue.
RobU.S. Army Retired
2012 F350 DRW CC LB Lariat PS 6.7
2020 Solitude 310GK-R, MORryde IS, disc brakes,
Sailun LRG tires, solar, DP windows, W/D
(Previously in a Reflection 337RLS)
Full time since 08/2015
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09-09-2021, 10:52 AM #49
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Guilty...
I did it this weekend in Perrin TX at Great Escapes.... voltage drops kept activating my EMS protection, finally after the camper got up to 82 I pulled it. I should have left, however we had the in-laws in cabins and yada yada yada.
So yeah, I committed a felony!!!!
By the way... I would have been okay leaving the in-laws there... My wife on the other hand.... well... lets just leave it at I stayed at the park!!!!Last edited by stumpfinder; 09-09-2021 at 10:54 AM.
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09-09-2021, 12:54 PM #50
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If there’s burn marks on the prongs the plug is toast and should be replaced.
My go to juice to revive poor connections (not heavily burnt) is ACF-50. https://www.amazon.com/ACF-50-Anti-C...dp/B000P1C8UO/ A little goes a long way. I keep a can at home and another in the RV. A squirt into a receptacle and on prongs can revive a poor electrical connection. I’ve been using it for almost 20 years on all types of electrical plugs to regain conductivity. It’s also great as a lubricant, penetrant and corrosion prevention, plus it smells good.
I used it to revive an outdoor light switch that only worked 10% of the time. A squirt of ACF-50 and it has worked flawlessly for a year now. I used it on a friend’s aircraft radio Push To Talk switch 20 years ago where it was becoming increasingly intermittent. 20 years later it’s going strong and he still tells the story.
Another chemical that works is detoxit. https://www.amazon.com/CAIG-D5S-6-Co...dp/B00I3G272M/
And for connectors on car/trucks Ford XG-12 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NUBB28/Jerry & Linda
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best strategie on keeping unit...
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