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  1. #1
    Left The Driveway
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    Using an AGM battery

    Want to use a renogy agm 200 amp battery in my 2015 reflection 27rl. Is my converter ok with this?
    Thanking in advance
    ED

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    Site Team Ynot4me2's Avatar
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    It wont be an issue as they are like LA voltage wise. The issue would be if you were going to lithium battery as they require a little hight voltage.

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    Steph & Lise
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    Site Team xrated's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by delsurfin View Post
    Want to use a renogy agm 200 amp battery in my 2015 reflection 27rl. Is my converter ok with this?
    Thanking in advance
    ED
    Actually, the AGM requirement for proper charging is almost identical to the charging requirements for a LiFePO battery.....14.6 boost/bulk, and around 14 volts for the float. Will it work, yes it will charge your battery to some degree, but very likely it will not completely charge it if the charger is strictly a FLA battery charger.
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  4. #4
    Site Team xrated's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ynot4me2 View Post
    It wont be an issue as they are like LA voltage wise. The issue would be if you were going to lithium battery as they require a little hight voltage.

    Sent from my SM-P610 using Tapatalk
    Actually, it will be somewhat of an issue.....the AGM charging profile is almost identical for what a LFP battery charging profile is.
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  5. #5
    Seasoned Camper
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    I would Google the AGM battery charging profile. There are enough sites that indicate they are closer to the standard lead acid battery than a lithium. Of course, every site is a little different so it's probably best to find out from your battery manufacturer.

    If it was me, I would say you'll be fine with your stock converter. I doubt if you will overcharge it, which is what you really do not want.

  6. #6
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    An AGM will charge fine. Virtually all charging systems over the last 15 years or so have been designed to handle the lower charging voltage requirements of AGMs.

    Charging batteries is simple. Apply a voltage higher than the current OCV of the battery and it will charge. As long as the applied voltage is higher than the full charge OCV of the battery it will fully charge. You want it high enough that a reasonable current will flow to be useful.

    The idea that there are special “profiles” for different batteries is marketing by charger manufactures. A charger is fundamentally a DC power supply.
    John & Kathy
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  7. #7
    Site Team xrated's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Butcher View Post
    I would Google the AGM battery charging profile. There are enough sites that indicate they are closer to the standard lead acid battery than a lithium. Of course, every site is a little different so it's probably best to find out from your battery manufacturer.

    If it was me, I would say you'll be fine with your stock converter. I doubt if you will overcharge it, which is what you really do not want.
    I have a Mean Well charger (highly rated product) and the NPB models of that charger have DIP switches on the front of it that can be set for 2 stage charging or three stage charging profiles, along with setting for properly charging GEL, FLA, or AGM/LiFePO....as well as programming your own setting if you purchase the optional programmer for those chargers. Here are the voltage settings for each.

    GEL: Boost/Bulk 14.0V Float..13.6V
    FLA: Boost/Bulk 14.2V Float...13.4V
    AGM & LFP: Boost/Bulk 14.6V Float...14.0V

    In their chart and how to set the DIP switches, the AGM AND the FLA both use the same exact settings.

    And as a side note, likely irrelevant to this discussion, but none the less important to me, I bought that charger/converter purposely because it can be set to different pre-programmed settings for different battery types..AND because the FLA setting (14.2V Boost and 13.4 Float) is exactly what I wanted for my new DIY LiFePO battery for charging purposes. The boost voltage of 14.2 equals 3.55 volts per cell...which will certainly fully charge a LFP battery. It also doesn't take it all the way to the 3.65/cell voltage that is considered to be the very most that the cell should ever be charged to. The result is this.....the battery fully charges WITHOUT adding additional stress to the cells by being at Max. voltage per cell. Secondly, the 13.4V float is a much better float voltage for LFP rather than holding the float voltage at 14.0V, which is 3.5V per cell and over time, will result in keeping a LFP battery over the voltage that is required for a full charge. The reasoning behind all of this is that LFP batteries do NOT like to be stored fully charged for long periods of time, and significantly reduces their life expectancy....
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  8. #8
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    @jkwilson I do not think it's marketing. I do believe there is a difference. That difference will get you the maximum life out of your battery.

    Is it worth the additional cost to buy a new converter to get a few extra minutes [or life] out of your battery? As cheap as I am, probably not.

    @xrated Just because your charger has those settings does not mean the battery manufacturer supports those voltages.

    Not trying to start anything. It's best that you educate yourself about your battery and your converter vs asking people what you should do.

    Just saying, if you Google AGM charging profiles, they are all over the place. What is right and wrong? Contact the battery manufacturer to get the real facts.
    Last edited by Butcher; 06-17-2022 at 08:48 AM.

  9. #9
    Big Traveler Grandesigner's Avatar
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    As long as your charger does not have the 4th stage that regular lead acid batteries do need about once a month, you are good to go.
    Dan and Rita
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  10. #10
    Site Team xrated's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jkwilson View Post
    An AGM will charge fine. Virtually all charging systems over the last 15 years or so have been designed to handle the lower charging voltage requirements of AGMs.

    Charging batteries is simple. Apply a voltage higher than the current OCV of the battery and it will charge. As long as the applied voltage is higher than the full charge OCV of the battery it will fully charge. You want it high enough that a reasonable current will flow to be useful.

    The idea that there are special “profiles” for different batteries is marketing by charger manufactures. A charger is fundamentally a DC power supply.
    I don't believe it is quite as simple as you make it out to be. A "smart" charger will have associated electronic components that will safely charge AND protect the battery, based on battery chemistry of that battery. The whole idea is to be able to charge the battery as quickly as possible, along with tempering that process by keeping within the voltage/current limits deemed safe by the battery chemistry. Pretty much all chargers will start out in Constant Current mode and at some point in that process will switch to Constant Voltage mode. This can be a time based operation or a charging profile based on an algorithm that measures tail current percentages. An example of that might be a 5% tail current switch to float voltage. A 50 amp charger would then switch at 2.5 amps. Tail Current switching makes a lot more sense than a time based value, as it is switching at the exact point in time, without regard to some "preset" time that may or may not be what the battery needs for dropping to float voltage.
    2016 F350 CrewCab Dually
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    2023 Suzuki GSX-S1000 GT+
    Excessive Payload is a Wonderful Thing

    "If it ain't fast....It ain't Fun"

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