Newbie questions

[Gofast23]

Hello,

We just purchased a Transcend 265BH. This is our first trailer of any sort, so we are very excited, but also a bit nervous and overwhelmed with the learning curve. In the end, we think the 265BH will be perfect for our family to create some lasting memories.

While there is a ton of information available, both generally and specific to GD products, there are a few questions I haven’t been able to find satisfying answers to yet. Here goes:

1) How many gallons of antifreeze should I plan for to winterize the trailer?

2) I watched the GD video about how to winterize the standard system, but it didn’t mention using an air compressor to blow out the fresh tank fill line. Is there any reason I should not do this or why it is not necessary?

3) What is the etiquette for using the black tank flush port when at a site with full hook ups? I bought a dedicated hose for that operation and I would like to do it before disconnecting so I can fully dump the black tank. But I can see why folks wouldn’t approve of the connection to the fresh water spigot. It would be disappointing if I had to take it to a dump station every time I wanted to use the black tank flush, but I presume that has a water connection dedicated to black water uses.

Thanks in advance for any help and guidance about how to do things the right way.

[FlyStar]

Welcome to the forum and camping fun.

2 gallons of antifreeze should be enough. I use 3 but I probably over do it, and it’s a long way to my outdoor kitchen faucet. and I add more than needed down the P traps, etc.

In my opinion, no need to blow out the water lines with compressed air if you use antifreeze. But many do both.

Don’t forget to drain the water vial low point drains and the water heater and then set the valves to bypass the water heater before adding antifreeze. (Unless it’s an on demand water heater)

As far as black tank flushing, I do it at the full hook up campsite regularly. I use a dedicated hose with a valve on the end where it connects to the black tank flush input and turn it on and off with that valve. Theoretically no water can back flow. Rinse it good before and after. Spray a bit of bleach solution on the fittings. Seems good enough practice to me. Opinions may vary on this.

[NB Canada]

I am in a very cold climate. I do both. Blow out lines
Then bypass the water heater. Fill the system with antifreeze (2-3 gallons),don’t forget the toilet and outside hose attachments, then I open the low point drains and drain it mostly all out
I collect it in a bucket then pour it down the drains and toilet
Don’t forget to remove the plug in the water heater

As far as the black tank rinser IMO they don’t work very well. They don’t really work as the manufacturer tells you to use them
I use a water meter to add water via the rinser but with the waste valve closed. You have to be very careful if you do this too avoid overflowing the system but imo they don’t rinse much with the valve open
And yes I use it right at my site. I use a y adapter

[Riverbug]

Hello,

We just purchased a Transcend 265BH. This is our first trailer of any sort, so we are very excited, but also a bit nervous and overwhelmed with the learning curve. In the end, we think the 265BH will be perfect for our family to create some lasting memories.

While there is a ton of information available, both generally and specific to GD products, there are a few questions I haven’t been able to find satisfying answers to yet. Here goes:

1) How many gallons of antifreeze should I plan for to winterize the trailer?
We came back from FL (to MN) in February so I bought 3 gallons of antifreeze in AL to winterize before we headed North. I ended up using 2 gallons. Note that each unit might be different, but some like mine have the winterization intake right at the water pump inside the RV. By using that intake for antifreeze, you miss the line running from the Nautilus panel back to the pump. Rather than using the intake at the pump you can connect a short hose to the garden hose inlet where you normally hook up your campground water. This is easiest if you have fabricated a male garden hose end with 2' clear tubing to stick into the antifreeze bottle. Be sure to put the water heater in bypass mode. Once you have the tube in the antifreeze bottle, turn on the pump (faucets closed) and let it pull in enough antifreeze to pressurize the line and stop the pump. Then you can start opening each of the faucets (one at a time) until you see antifreeze come out. Do both hot and cold for bathroom sink, shower, and kitchen sink. Now you have those lines done and you have antifreeze in the drain traps. Run some through the toilet line and flush. Now there's some antifreeze in gray and black tanks as well. I had forgotten to do anything with the black tank flush and thankfully did not have any issues this spring. My thought is to use that same hose to connect to the black tank flush and just pour a bit of antifreeze into the hose to get it into that line.

2) I watched the GD video about how to winterize the standard system, but it didn’t mention using an air compressor to blow out the fresh tank fill line. Is there any reason I should not do this or why it is not necessary?
Air is done basically the same way with the exception that you must ensure there is always a faucet open so that you don't over-pressurize a line. This is also accomplished by ensuring your compressor is set to a low pressure, but some people use compressors without a tank and cannot control that. I've used air or antifreeze over the years and both work fine. I just figure since I have to use antifreeze in the drains and tanks anyway, I just find it easy enough to use that method over air. Nothing wrong with either method.

3) What is the etiquette for using the black tank flush port when at a site with full hook ups? I bought a dedicated hose for that operation and I would like to do it before disconnecting so I can fully dump the black tank. But I can see why folks wouldn’t approve of the connection to the fresh water spigot. It would be disappointing if I had to take it to a dump station every time I wanted to use the black tank flush, but I presume that has a water connection dedicated to black water uses.
No problem at all using a dedicated hose connected to the spigot at the campsite. There is a backflush preventer on the black flush line so no issue there unless it failed. But most people only connect the hose long enough to flush, then disconnect it, so it's not like it's left connected unattended that I've ever seen. I found it convenient to put a two-way diverter on the spigot so that I do not have to disconnect the fresh water hose in order to connect the black flush hose. I just leave the one side open for fresh water and connect the black flush hose when I need it.

Thanks in advance for any help and guidance about how to do things the right way.

Flystar covered it too but to reiterate see above...hope that helps.

[stroguy]

I like NB use a water meter to rinse my black tank. I also do as not advised and close my valve, fill and drain, then fill and drain again. I have a 37 gallon black and my final fill and drain will be around 26-30 gallons. On my black tank I can hear when the water level has risen to the spray port and then I open the gate and flush. I do not turn the water off during draining to help insure no back poo on my rinse hose.

Make sure if you do the rinse with the gate closed it is the only thing you will be doing for that time. Do not get distracted by another task or read a good book. Sit by the flush inlet and don’t move until you are done. A distraction will cause an overfill to occur and an ugly mess in the coach.

When done I remove the dedicated hose. I don’t need a failed shut off valve to happen when I go away for a hike or shopping.

Welcome and good luck.

[Riverbug]

I am in a very cold climate. I do both. Blow out lines
Then bypass the water heater. Fill the system with antifreeze (2-3 gallons),don’t forget the toilet and outside hose attachments, then I open the low point drains and drain it mostly all out
I collect it in a bucket then pour it down the drains and toilet
Don’t forget to remove the plug in the water heater

As far as the black tank rinser IMO they don’t work very well. They don’t really work as the manufacturer tells you to use them
I use a water meter to add water via the rinser but with the waste valve closed. You have to be very careful if you do this too avoid overflowing the system but imo they don’t rinse much with the valve open
And yes I use it right at my site. I use a y adapter

Very much agree that if you simply leave the valve open it doesn't do as much. I use our one control phone app to watch how much water is going into the tank when I close the valve - that's very handy. After 2 motorhomes and 3 travel trailers without the black flush line, I was amazed at how much more stuff comes out with that flush line in place. I never had a problem with the others, but clearly there was more stuff left in the tank between trips than I realized before. Scary.

[NB Canada]

Very much agree that if you simply leave the valve open it doesn't do as much. I use our one control phone app to watch how much water is going into the tank when I close the valve - that's very handy. After 2 motorhomes and 3 travel trailers without the black flush line, I was amazed at how much more stuff comes out with that flush line in place. I never had a problem with the others, but clearly there was more stuff left in the tank between trips than I realized before. Scary.

I would get a water meter. They are less than 8 dollars
I have the one control app as well but would never rely on it for any accurate info
Ymmv

[jmbopp]

If you have an on-demand water heater do NOT bypass it.

I can use 2 gallons of antifreeze, but I drain the water heater, open the low point drains and faucets, and blow out the lines first (including the city water inlet.) Then I drain the holding tanks, run antifreeze through, and blow that out so it sits in the drain traps.

I use a home-made flush wand for a thorough black tank cleaning. It's surprising how much more "stuff" comes out compared to using the on-board rinser alone.

[Riverbug]

I would get a water meter. They are less than 8 dollars
I have the one control app as well but would never rely on it for any accurate info
Ymmv

Yep, I also have a water meter. I have no concerns with the One Control either. I've compared with the water meter and it's pretty reliable. Even if there was an issue with the sensors, as Stroguy said I can also hear when it's getting full. But I've found that I don't need to fill it completely. I just go to roughly 1/2 tank a couple times and then let it flush freely and it seems to keep it pretty clear. Haven't had a problem with sensors so far.

[NB Canada]

OP, you mentioned the water at the dump site as being fresh
Enjoy your new trailer
Rick

Not that it matters but I don’t see where he said this