Imagine 2400BH DC Converter Question-Help

[madkingchris]

I want to replace my batteries with LiFePO4s and I know I would need to replace my converter with a Lithium capable model. When I called Grand Design and gave them my VIN, they told me my current converter is a 55amp model. However, the info on the back of it shows 89XX which Google leads me to believe is a 45amp model. Also, I was surprised to find the battery cables leading to from the DC fuse board to the battery are only 8 gauge, which at about 10-15 feet are only rated for 30-35amps.

Has anyone dealt with this before? I am worried about buying a converter that will send too many amps to the new LifePO4 batteries and cause some overheating of the battery cables. I don't really want to go through the hassle of replacing the cables - would rather get an appropriate model converter. I see options for 45, 60, and higher amp models.

I have a 2019 Imagine 2400BH. Help!!!

Thanks,
Chris

[FT4NOW]

Many people put in higher output converters compared to stock. If your current wiring isnt adequately sized, just replace the wiring with appropriate sized wire and there wont be any issues. Look up the converter specs as well, most require a 15A circuit, but there are some that call for 20A.

[madkingchris]

Well, that's the thing. The wiring is so neatly run into the trailer with foam insulation as blocking, it would be a tedious job. That's why I would rather not mess with it. Good tip about the 15a vs. 20a AC side. I'll need to keep an eye on it.

I do have a Solar System being redesigned for it, so I most likely won't even need a new converter. I'm guessing that will do a good enough job keeping the batteries charged. If I am ever in a pinch, I could plug in a portable charger into shorepower as well.

Got me thinking though. I'll need to re-look at the wiring again and see if I want to tackle it next Spring.

[Butcher]

When I changed out my 55A converter to a 100A, the 15A breaker would blow after 15 mins or so. I have +600ah LifePo4 batteries and with them, they can suck up a lot of current. I elected to swap out the 15A breaker to a 20A. When I did this, I looked at the wiring from the breaker to the receptacle and found that the receptacle has its own wiring and that receptacle/wiring is rated to 20A. So, it was pretty simple. Install the breaker and I was good to go.

https://diysolarforum.com/attachment...15-png.115139/

If you research your electrical panel, I am certain you have the same 20A receptacle. When I researched my panel, I swear the 30A panels had the same receptacle. Just remove the black wire from the breaker and swap breakers. I had the dual breaker and the 20A was on the other side. I had to swap out the label on the panel.

You probably do not need to go to 20A unless you elect to go to 100A. I chose the 100A version because I wanted to charge the batteries ASAP and that is one way to do it on shore power. I'm also building another 302ah battery for a total of +900ah.

If you are not concerned how fast to charge the battery, then there is no real reason to get a larger converter. I figured, the faster I could charge them, the less the generator would run. Less noise is better.

[madkingchris]

Interesting. My converter is directly wired to a 15amp breaker. That would be easy to change out if I needed to go 20amps. My battery bank is 200amp, and the mfr recommends not charging over 50amps. But even with that I would need to replace the 8awg cables between the DC panel to the batteries with 6awg to be safe.

Thanks for the reply. I think my choices are A: Go with a lower amp converter and leave the 8awg cables alone, but wait longer for the batteries to charge, or B: Get a high amp converter for faster charging, but go through the hassle of replacing the cables.

[Butcher]

I do not know how your panel is set up but my converter is separate from the panel. Before I started, the converter went to the panel, then to the battery, at the front of the 5th wheel. When I got done, I installed the new converter and ran the same gauge wire to the electrical panel, but a separate cable to the batteries. I chose 2awg and it's about 2ft in length.

I your panel has the converter built in, you probably do not have this option. Since I did not change the load to the panel, I am ok with the stock cables that feed it. I would not have been ok if I knew the battery current would pass through the panel.

My converter is plugged into the electrical panel and that receptacle is rated to 20A. The converter is not directly wired to the breaker but must pass thru the receptacle.

[jproctor9]

I do have a Solar System being redesigned for it, so I most likely won't even need a new converter. I'm guessing that will do a good enough job keeping the batteries charged. If I am ever in a pinch, I could plug in a portable charger into shorepower as well.

Got me thinking though. I'll need to re-look at the wiring again and see if I want to tackle it next Spring.

If you're contemplating solar, I'd turn this all into a single project and run new wiring. You will thank yourself later.

When I installed my setup, I ran 4awg wire from Lynx Distributor to DC panel. It has dramatically changed slide performance. 8awg just results in too much voltage drop over the long run from batteries to load.

If you decide to run something like a Multiplus, you can also eliminate your converter altogether. Of course, you'll be pulling a lot more wire at that point, too.