Propane quick connect extension-2250rk

**indi123** · 09-06-2021, 06:47 AM

I have GD Imagine 2250rk. I have the quick connect hose that goes between the Blackstone and propane connection. My question is this.. Is there anyway to extend the propane connection on the trailer OUT a little so I don't have to get on my hands and knees and crawl under the trailer? Would be much easier to use if it was right there behind the skirting.
Thanks

**geotex1** · 09-06-2021, 07:24 AM

Of course. You will just need a longer hose and to make up a bracket of some sort. Shops that make up pneumatic and hydraulic hoses can make up whatever you need in terms of length and fittings. Just be sure the inside diameter of the hose matches what the current hose to the quick connect valve is.

**BobLandry** · 09-06-2021, 08:34 AM

His propane connection is probably the standard GD setup. The QD is screwed directly into an aluminum manifold so there is no way to support a flexible hose. It has to be rigid pipe. The threads are 3/8-NPT so standard nipples and ells would be used.
I havn't done mine yet, but measurements show that for the QD to clear the bottom edge of the skirt, it needs to be 2" lower(3" is better and extended outwards 8". That does not include the 3" of the QD. Any plumbing supply house should have the necessary components. McMaster-Carr is also an excellent source.

At least, on my rig, there is nothing between the gas manifold and the skirting of the trailer that would support any kind of a bracket. The short run of 3/8" pipe would be self supporting and not require additional support. JMO

**more tired since retired** · 09-06-2021, 08:59 AM

Originally Posted by BobLandry

His propane connection is probably the standard GD setup. The QD is screwed directly into an aluminum manifold so there is no way to support a flexible hose. It has to be rigid pipe. The threads are 3/8-NPT so standard nipples and ells would be used.
I havn't done mine yet, but measurements show that for the QD to clear the bottom edge of the skirt, it needs to be 2" lower(3" is better and extended outwards 8". That does not include the 3" of the QD. Any plumbing supply house should have the necessary components. McMaster-Carr is also an excellent source.

Rather than extending lower than the skirt and exposing the extension to possible damage from road debris or hitting something, why not just cut a hole in the skirt? I've been considering using these for the rear sewer and grey tanks.

Anndason 2 PCS 6'' Black Deck Plate Kit Deck Hatch Kit They can be found on Amazon.

They are for kayaks, but easy enough to cut a hole in the bag, put over the pipe and it's protected. And with the hard cover on the outside, it would look finished.

**geotex1** · 09-06-2021, 09:16 AM

Originally Posted by BobLandry

His propane connection is probably the standard GD setup. The QD is screwed directly into an aluminum manifold so there is no way to support a flexible hose. It has to be rigid pipe. The threads are 3/8-NPT so standard nipples and ells would be used.
I havn't done mine yet, but measurements show that for the QD to clear the bottom edge of the skirt, it needs to be 2" lower(3" is better and extended outwards 8". That does not include the 3" of the QD. Any plumbing supply house should have the necessary components. McMaster-Carr is also an excellent source.

At least, on my rig, there is nothing between the gas manifold and the skirting of the trailer that would support any kind of a bracket. The short run of 3/8" pipe would be self supporting and not require additional support. JMO

Yes, I know. You don't want to cantilever a small diameter steel pipe that will then hang a heavy valve from one end while bouncing down roads and sprayed with water. I was getting at relocating the block with a bracket and extended to the new position with a flex. The manufacturers try to tuck them tight and out of the path of damage, which is why they're not so convenient unless you have a rolled skirt rig like the Pinnacles and Luxe coaches. Nevertheless, many ways to skin this cat, just think about it a bit so you balance concerns for location, protection (both physical and corrosion), etc.

**BobLandry** · 09-06-2021, 09:24 AM

That was my thought also, but there is no way to relocate the manifold without replacing all od the rubber hoses up to that block. Maybe one of our retired engineers has an idea.
I'm thinking maybe a piecs of 1/8" flat stock screwed to the frame that the block is attached to and extended out far enough to support the assembly. I'm even thinking that with e extension only being 8" long, it would be sturdy enough to support itself. It will be easier to evaluate what is needed once the entire assembly is in place and it can be checked for rigidity.

**geotex1** · 09-06-2021, 09:34 AM

Originally Posted by BobLandry

That was my thought also, but there is no way to relocate the manifold without replacing all od the rubber hoses up to that block. Maybe one of our retired engineers has an idea.
I'm thinking maybe a piecs of 1/8" flat stock screwed to the frame that the block is attached to and extended out far enough to support the assembly. I'm even thinking that with e extension only being 8" long, it would be sturdy enough to support itself. It will be easier to evaluate what is needed once the entire assembly is in place and it can be checked for rigidity.

Not so retired, but am 30+ years in after licensure. Lol.

How about this? Flex whip between manifold and valve, and you put the valve in a mouse hole cover cut through the J-wrap. FWIW - exactly what I did on our Heritage Glen when I needed a port mid-ship versus the rear provided by FR. I sized the flex just about 6 inches longer than I needed so I could pull it through the mouse hole door and shut it and be able to easily connect the hose and operate the valve.

This is the mouse hole cover I used:
JR Products 541-3-A Black Deluxe Round Electric Cable Hatch with Back https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XLGQC0...ing=UTF8&psc=1

**indi123** · 09-06-2021, 10:49 AM

Thank you all for your suggestions and resources. I am actually a she..lol. My husband passed earlier this year so I am having to learn a lot. That's not a bad thing but I should have paid more attention!! :-) Geotex1, your solution seems like the easiest for me to accomplish on my own. I do need to figure out the best source for the flex whip. Thanks!

**geotex1** · 09-06-2021, 06:45 PM

Originally Posted by indi123

Thank you all for your suggestions and resources. I am actually a she..lol. My husband passed earlier this year so I am having to learn a lot. That's not a bad thing but I should have paid more attention!! :-) Geotex1, your solution seems like the easiest for me to accomplish on my own. I do need to figure out the best source for the flex whip. Thanks!

Hello @indi123! I am sorry for your loss. If you cannot find a local shop making hoses, you can probably use this:

https://www.etrailer.com/Propane/Camco/CAM57280.html

with the mouse hole hatch I posted earlier. Cut your hole for the hatch, thread the linked hose through it and connect to the not-so-convenient quick-connect and then secure the flex hose with some hose clamps to the frame. so there's not excessive slack to catch anything going down the road or getting into your campsites.

**RV Sailor** · 09-06-2021, 07:49 PM

I added a two way valve , one with a quick disconnect fitting at the tank . Then I have a 35 ft length of hose I pull out to connect to our gas grill ( black stone in your case) anywhere I want to put it.

No need to mess with the structure of the RV