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  1. #1
    Site Sponsor Steven@147's Avatar
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    120VAC Molex & RV Outlet Inspection

    Thought I would start a new thread talking about these things. There are several threads in the Electrical System and Wiring section, just search and you will find them.

    Anyway, completing some inspections on our RV yesterday, we took the fireplace out to clean and inspect, and checked the Molex connectors hidden behind it for evidence of damage, charring, burned contacts. The three behind o0ur fireplace seem to be OK. Here is a reference picture so others know what I'm talking about. They are rated for 600Volts 20 amp part number 194013310. The one we have is part number 194031340 and is rated for 15 amp. I'm thinking about getting a spare set of connectors just in case I need to replace one, haven't had to so far. Anyone carry spares for these?

    Here is a posting for these, https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...ryXgoplg%3D%3D


    Then the wife went to plug in a dehumidifier and the plugin next to our couch just broke and almost fell inside the cabinet. Here is also a pic of the crimp RV outlets I'm talking about. These things seem to brake a lot. The installers usually tighten them too much and crack them. Then is a matter of time before they just brake into pieces. I replace them with an "Old Work" box from Home Depot or other place, and new 15 amp plugin whenever I have to deal with them. Thats my project for today.

    It's important to periodically check these things, I have seen pictures of burned up connectors and broken plugins.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Molex.jpeg   RV plugin.jpg  
    Last edited by Steven@147; 01-18-2024 at 07:04 AM.
    Steve & Tami Cass - Escapee's, FMCA Members, Texas Fulltimers Since July 2020
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    STEVE
    i believe you can use properly sized WAGO connectors Example https://www.homedepot.com/p/WAGO-221...ce=1&gclsrc=ds They make multiple one too, but with theses single ones you can put heat shrink tubing over the connection to make it waterproof. I believe the wiring is 14 awg,
    Hope this helps.
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  3. #3
    Big Traveler
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    IMO, you are doing the right thing with the receptacles, even when installed perfectly, it's only a matter of time before they fail if you plug in anything with a higher demand than a tablet or phone.
    As to the Molex? I don't carry a spare because I would never reinstall one. If one shorts out on me I will remake the connections with butt splices and silicone and heat shrink. I believe they are only in the cct to make electrically connecting the slide fast when being built in the factory. Not a concern of mine as an owner, so I'll go with a more positive, waterproof connection. Molex connectors on the 303 are under the floor is my understanding. If yours are in a dry location, they probably won't fail.
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  4. #4
    Site Sponsor Steven@147's Avatar
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    @Scott'n'Wendy and @powerscol thanks guys. I had seen some posts where the Molex connectors were outside under the floor, damaged by water intrusion. I agree they used them to make it faster to connect AC power to the slide after they installed in the coach. The three I was inspecting are inside our coach behind the fireplace, but that makes for a much bigger hole in the slide floor for them to fit thru. Sure they got a bunch of goop around the hole to seal it up. So far they look fine, no signs of them over heating.

    In general I think anywhere you have a splice, connector, or whatever, there is a possibility the contacts will heat up, maybe due to corrosion or resistance etc, then start to burn up.
    When I got to thinking about it, since they are inside behind the fireplace, I don't know why a guy couldn't just use a common household electrical junction box with cover and use wire nuts and tape on the connections. It's not likely we are going to remove the dinning slide. But then I would have to think about vibration and the nuts and wires coming apart. Vibrations caused by pulling the RV down the road. Most houses having electrical junction boxes don't vibrate.

    I'll figure it out if we ever have a problem with them,
    Last edited by Steven@147; 01-19-2024 at 07:17 AM.
    Steve & Tami Cass - Escapee's, FMCA Members, Texas Fulltimers Since July 2020
    2019 Solitude 3350RL S-Class, 2018 Ram 3500 DRW, Laramie Longhorn, B&W Companion, Texas Class A Non-CDL Drivers License
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steven@147 View Post
    @Scott'n'Wendy and @powerscol thanks guys. I had seen some posts where the Molex connectors were outside under the floor, damaged by water intrusion. I agree they used them to make it faster to connect AC power to the slide after they installed in the coach. The three I was inspecting are inside our coach behind the fireplace, but that makes for a much bigger hole in the slide floor for them to fit thru. Sure they got a bunch of goop around the hole to seal it up. So far they look fine, no signs of them over heating.

    In general I think anywhere you have a splice, connector, or whatever, there is a possibility the contacts will heat up, maybe due to corrosion or resistance etc, then start to burn up.
    When I got to thinking about it, since they are inside behind the fireplace, I don't know why a guy couldn't just use a common household electrical junction box with cover and use wire nuts and tape on the connections. It's not likely we are going to remove the dinning slide. But then I would have to think about vibration and the nuts and wires coming apart. Vibrations caused by pulling the RV down the road. Most houses having electrical junction boxes don't vibrate.

    I'll figure it out if we ever have a problem with them,
    Good job on replacing the RV type receptacle (not plugin) with an old work box and residential receptacle... that's the route I would take.
    As far as the molex connectors go I agree with Scott'n'Wendy and wouldn't bother carrying spares or ever think of using them. 40+ years in the electrical trade has taught me to trust the tried and true... junction boxes and wire nuts. Installed correctly, twisting the wires and using the proper sided wire nuts they aren't going to fall off. I prefer using a secured junction box with wire nuts over the plastic snap together connectors, especially on higher current drawing devices like the electric fireplace.
    I also wouldn't use WAGO connectors for anything other than light fixture wiring or small 12vdc connections... they also shouldn't be used in place of the molex connectors for 120V splices without also being installed in a junction box. Molex connectors don't require a JB but WAGO connectors do.
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