We have a 2023 Solitude 310GK.
I have a 12-volt Furrion, 20cf fridge in my 2023 310GK. The fridge has worked fine until it suddenly didn’t. Background: It is a solar equipped. 310 with the 320 watt solar panel etc. I have verified that it does indeed send 13.8 volts to the battery when NOT hooked up to shore power. I tested this out in storage once. Set the fridge to “Off Grid” and it sat for 12 days. Upon return the batteries (both lead acid) were dead. I charge the system with my truck and was able to get the jacks up and move it to a campground with 50 A service. The fridge fired up and was fine for 3 weeks. I moved 90 miles (2 hours) on a slightly bumpy road and upon opening the door I saw that my system to secure the doors had failed and the upper 2 doors were open and items on the floor. The system buttons/lights on the right door inside panel were on but the fridge was not (no hum). After setup and plug in to 50A service, the fridge did finally cool down again (about 3 hours). (I have remote temp sensors). THE NEXT morning, the fridge is no longer cooling and of course gradually warming. I have tried manipulating the button system, pulled the 20 Amp fuse at the main RV 12v electrical panel for a period but nothing. The 1 thing I have noticed however is that the interior light comes on and starts to blink in a 1 second on/off pattern. I have also done the dollar bill seal test and that is ok. I decided to pull the fridge out of the cavity so I could check the top circuit board and compressor to see if anything looks wrong, I tested the 40 fuses, and they showed continuity. The only thing I noticed is the transformer in the middle of the circuit board seemed discolored. I have since allowed it to sit overnight then apply power by putting the RV 12v main panel fuse back in the panel, but the same results apply.
I contacted Matt at GD customer service and explained. He was confident that the control board was bad due to the blinking light scenario as he had encountered it twice recently. He asked for pictures, which I sent. He indicated the process is to file part request to the manufacturer, they must respond within 48 hours, then find the part and then overnight it to me. I was also told that I could purchase a small, dorm type fridge for NMT $150 so I did as a means to continue on our road trip. Also bought a cooler and got some dry ice to help with cooling stuff.
The control board arrived. The total days between initial call to GD and receipt was 14 days. They didn’t overnight it because I was moving so I asked them to send it to a friend that I would meet up with.
In the meantime, I kept reading and playing with the door controls. One combination, turning it to low power mode (see manual) then back “on”, seemed to reset the board and allowed the fridge to run “normal” for a period (6-12 hours?) however, after that period it would go back to blinking light mode. After a couple of days, I tried to set it to Super Freezer Mode with Super Fridge mode (see manual) and it would run for about 26 hours then back to blinking light mode. Super mode would bring the temp down to -10f in the freezer and about 34f in the fridge. We limped along with this until I replaced it.
In my scenario, it seems to me that when the fridge goes into a “defrost” mode is when it stops and does the blinking light thing.
I installed the new control board and after about 4 hours the fridge was up and running like it should! After 6 days, it has maintained 34 and -1 continuously!
I have a 12-volt Furrion, 20cf fridge in my 2023 310GK. The fridge has worked fine until it suddenly didn’t. Background: It is a solar equipped. 310 with the 320 watt solar panel etc. I have verified that it does indeed send 13.8 volts to the battery when NOT hooked up to shore power. I tested this out in storage once. Set the fridge to “Off Grid” and it sat for 12 days. Upon return the batteries (both lead acid) were dead. I charge the system with my truck and was able to get the jacks up and move it to a campground with 50 A service. The fridge fired up and was fine for 3 weeks. I moved 90 miles (2 hours) on a slightly bumpy road and upon opening the door I saw that my system to secure the doors had failed and the upper 2 doors were open and items on the floor. The system buttons/lights on the right door inside panel were on but the fridge was not (no hum). After setup and plug in to 50A service, the fridge did finally cool down again (about 3 hours). (I have remote temp sensors). THE NEXT morning, the fridge is no longer cooling and of course gradually warming. I have tried manipulating the button system, pulled the 20 Amp fuse at the main RV 12v electrical panel for a period but nothing. The 1 thing I have noticed however is that the interior light comes on and starts to blink in a 1 second on/off pattern. I have also done the dollar bill seal test and that is ok. I decided to pull the fridge out of the cavity so I could check the top circuit board and compressor to see if anything looks wrong, I tested the 40 fuses, and they showed continuity. The only thing I noticed is the transformer in the middle of the circuit board seemed discolored. I have since allowed it to sit overnight then apply power by putting the RV 12v main panel fuse back in the panel, but the same results apply.
I contacted Matt at GD customer service and explained. He was confident that the control board was bad due to the blinking light scenario as he had encountered it twice recently. He asked for pictures, which I sent. He indicated the process is to file part request to the manufacturer, they must respond within 48 hours, then find the part and then overnight it to me. I was also told that I could purchase a small, dorm type fridge for NMT $150 so I did as a means to continue on our road trip. Also bought a cooler and got some dry ice to help with cooling stuff.
The control board arrived. The total days between initial call to GD and receipt was 14 days. They didn’t overnight it because I was moving so I asked them to send it to a friend that I would meet up with.
In the meantime, I kept reading and playing with the door controls. One combination, turning it to low power mode (see manual) then back “on”, seemed to reset the board and allowed the fridge to run “normal” for a period (6-12 hours?) however, after that period it would go back to blinking light mode. After a couple of days, I tried to set it to Super Freezer Mode with Super Fridge mode (see manual) and it would run for about 26 hours then back to blinking light mode. Super mode would bring the temp down to -10f in the freezer and about 34f in the fridge. We limped along with this until I replaced it.
In my scenario, it seems to me that when the fridge goes into a “defrost” mode is when it stops and does the blinking light thing.
I installed the new control board and after about 4 hours the fridge was up and running like it should! After 6 days, it has maintained 34 and -1 continuously!
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