2015 F150 with airbags and bed rails

CA

camperboy

Guest
Anybody have a '15 F150 and using air bags and bed rails for your fiver hitch? If so what are you using?

Thanks
 
Most F150's aren't capable of towing a 5th wheel. Payload capacity is too low. Shouldn't have to add airbags if you have the right truck.
 
you should be good with firestone ride rites but be extra careful when towing over weight. what concerns me if the axel limits in the rear if towing a 5ver
 
The question is for 2015 F150 owners; if you have air bags and in the bed rails what are you using?
 
The question is for 2015 F150 owners; if you have air bags and in the bed rails what are you using?

To clarify camperboy's request, note the 2015 part of his question. This is the new aluminum box, which could pose corrosion concerns when drilling holes for steel rails. A valid question. Probably everyone on this forum already knows all about the TV and Reflection in my signature :).

Rob
 
OK camperboy, I have a '15 F150 and using air bags with bed rails. The bed rails are Reese units specifically for this truck (complete with corrosion isolators), I got the mounts for installing outside the rails to make the install easier. I'm using the Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate springs and work fine with 20psi when the bed is empty and 40psi with the trailer. I have the wireless air compressor to make adjustments easily, and it's mounted in the cab under the rear seats so it stays clean and dry. I think we can safely ignore goducks14, he hasn't done the research.

Ben
 
I have exactly the same Reese custom attachment brackets, hitch and Airlift airbag system as Ben (mbaker) has. Because the attachment brackets go on the outside of the frame rails, the Firestone airbags will not fit. The Airlift bags go under the frame rail and there is no interference with the Reese brackets.

I run similar pressures to what Ben does. It is important to note that the airbags are NOT disguising an overload condition. They are tuning the ride for different road surfaces (which is why the onboard compressor is a good idea). The truck sits level without any pressure in the bags and with 30 psi (which is what I usually run) the back end of the truck lifts about 1/2".

Rob
 
Thanks. Do either of you have the part numbers that you used? I was told that I couldn't use airbags that mounted outside the frame rail but I haven't saw any that mounted different (I have had Firestones on 4 different trucks). Nice to know that Air Lift bags will work

Thanks again
 
Thanks. Do either of you have the part numbers that you used? I was told that I couldn't use airbags that mounted outside the frame rail but I haven't saw any that mounted different (I have had Firestones on 4 different trucks). Nice to know that Air Lift bags will work

Thanks again

Hi camperboy:

My F150 has the 6.5' bed; however, I still had the trailer come too close on those almost 90 degree bends so I added a Reese Airborne SideWinder. Now I can go PAST 90, and eliminated the chucking.

I used (just copy and paste into your browser):
Air Lift 88284 see: https://www.airliftcompany.com/vehicles/ford/f-150-pickup/2015/4-wheel-drive/#l
Air Lift 25870 see: https://www.airliftcompany.com/shop/25870/
Reese RP56013-53 rails, look for them at etrailer.com
Reese RP30869 hitch, also etrailer.com

Ben
 
Hi camperboy:

My F150 has the 6.5' bed; however, I still had the trailer come too close on those almost 90 degree bends so I added a Reese Airborne SideWinder. Now I can go PAST 90, and eliminated the chucking.

I used (just copy and paste into your browser):
Air Lift 88284 see: https://www.airliftcompany.com/vehicles/ford/f-150-pickup/2015/4-wheel-drive/#l
Air Lift 25870 see: https://www.airliftcompany.com/shop/25870/
Reese RP56013-53 rails, look for them at etrailer.com
Reese RP30869 hitch, also etrailer.com

Ben

Thanks. I still have my Wireless Air dual control from my last half ton. I have always used Firestone bags in the past mainly because that's what my local dealer carries but I don't have any problems changing brands
 
Thanks. Looks like the 88200 is good for up to 2014 models then for the '15 the part number is 88284 as mbaker used.

Exactly, in 2015 EVERYTHING changed.

What a lot of people don't realize is that 600lb saving (from using aluminum) was dropped onto the payload capacity, so a comparably equipped 2015 to a 2014 has a 600lb higher payload capacity, for no extra cost :)

Ben
 
Exactly, in 2015 EVERYTHING changed.

What a lot of people don't realize is that 600lb saving (from using aluminum) was dropped onto the payload capacity, so a comparably equipped 2015 to a 2014 has a 600lb higher payload capacity, for no extra cost

Except that Ford dropped the F150 GVWR by about 300 lbs across the board so actual payload increase is only half of the weight savings.

Dave
 
Except that Ford dropped the F150 GVWR by about 300 lbs across the board so actual payload increase is only half of the weight savings.

Dave

Dave is correct. Only half the aluminum weight savings made its way into the payload because of GVWR reduction. Although, Ford promised more in the early advertising. 4x4 Crew Cab heavy payload option went from 2300 lbs in '14 to 2600 lbs in '15.

Rob
 
Dave is correct. Only half the aluminum weight savings made its way into the payload because of GVWR reduction. Although, Ford promised more in the early advertising. 4x4 Crew Cab heavy payload option went from 2300 lbs in '14 to 2600 lbs in '15.

Rob

Guess I didn't look THAT close, couldn't find a 2014 equipped the way I wanted/needed, so went with a factory order 2015.

Ben
 
Thanks. Looks like the 88200 is good for up to 2014 models then for the '15 the part number is 88284 as mbaker used.

Does the Reese manual slider suit you? I read lots about fiver hitches that aren't tight and you can hear and feel the pin moving around in the jaws.

Thanks
 
Does the Reese manual slider suit you? I read lots about fiver hitches that aren't tight and you can hear and feel the pin moving around in the jaws.

Thanks

Hi camperboy,

It is not clear who you are directing this question to . . . but since I have a Reese manual slider, I will offer my 2 cents worth . . .

There are different Reese hitches. I have the Titan model which closes completely around the pin. There is essentially no movement between the jaws and the pin. There is other play in the hitch assembly, particularly between the pivot head and the cross beam that it attaches to. When the hitch was brand new, I would get a noticeable clunk from this interface. I realized that this was a stick/slip action because of new paint against new paint. I keep this (and all other interface points on the hitch) well greased and there must still be movement, but it happens smoothly and can't be heard or felt in the cab.

There are also different slider systems. Basically square tube and round tube, as I understand it. I was advised to get the round tube, which I did. The latch release mechanism was a little difficult to operate when new, but with grease and use, it now operates easily and smoothly.

As to whether this hitch "suits me" . . . I have really come to like the ability to move the hitch back for connecting/disconnecting and slow speed maneuvering. I posted this a while ago on another thread . . . I hitch in the aft maneuver position because I have a clear view of the hitch through the back window of my crew cab. In the aft position, I can open the tailgate even if the truck is not exactly aligned to the camper. With the hitch pushed back, I have a lot more room to get at the front storage compartment. And lastly, it seems to me that the camper reacts more quickly to steering inputs when backing with the pin being 10" behind the rear axle centreline rather than when it is directly over the axle, in the tow position.

Rob
 
Hi camperboy,

It is not clear who you are directing this question to . . . but since I have a Reese manual slider, I will offer my 2 cents worth . . .

There are different Reese hitches. I have the Titan model which closes completely around the pin. There is essentially no movement between the jaws and the pin. There is other play in the hitch assembly, particularly between the pivot head and the cross beam that it attaches to. When the hitch was brand new, I would get a noticeable clunk from this interface. I realized that this was a stick/slip action because of new paint against new paint. I keep this (and all other interface points on the hitch) well greased and there must still be movement, but it happens smoothly and can't be heard or felt in the cab.

There are also different slider systems. Basically square tube and round tube, as I understand it. I was advised to get the round tube, which I did. The latch release mechanism was a little difficult to operate when new, but with grease and use, it now operates easily and smoothly.

As to whether this hitch "suits me" . . . I have really come to like the ability to move the hitch back for connecting/disconnecting and slow speed maneuvering. I posted this a while ago on another thread . . . I hitch in the aft maneuver position because I have a clear view of the hitch through the back window of my crew cab. In the aft position, I can open the tailgate even if the truck is not exactly aligned to the camper. With the hitch pushed back, I have a lot more room to get at the front storage compartment. And lastly, it seems to me that the camper reacts more quickly to steering inputs when backing with the pin being 10" behind the rear axle centreline rather than when it is directly over the axle, in the tow position.

Rob

Yes, I was asking you. I was looking at a cheaper Reese but now will take a look at the Titan
 

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