2015 Grand Design 323BHS SlideOuts

DR

droidguru

Guest
Good day GD'ers,

You all may remember me as the guy who had a dining room (passenger side) slide-out extend on his very first trip but it wouldn't retract (it would not retract manually either). Stuck on the camp site on a weekend and no help in sight, it took six large men to inch the slide in as we all spent the next hour pushing, little by little until the slide was far enough in to make the long haul to the dealer. GD worked with my dealer to get the problem fixed relatively fast and just in time for my second trip which was a success. The problem a stripped actuator, I was told that these things happen from time to time. There is really nothing you can do it is an anomaly.

So to recap took delivery, went on our inaugural trip, slide-out extended when we arrived but would not retract when we left. It was also in the shop for two more months over the winter (panel replacement and tire bead leak).

After the second trip we winterized (took it to the shop for the above two other reference repairs) and through the remainder of the winter of 2014-2015 did not touch the rig.

Fast forward to today (3/15) I extended the slides to pack for our first trip of the season. After I completed packing I started bringing the slides in one by one. It didn't take long before I just started laughing out loud. When I get mad or frustrated I have different levels of disgust, laughing in this situation means I am at my wits end.

This time it was a different slide, the kitchen slide (driver side). Seems to be the same issue (extends fine, but won't retract).

Again lets recap. Number of camping trips = 2 (Number of broken slides = 2). I really can't believe it! I just looked at my wife and screamed you have got to be kidding me. There has got to be a design flaw with these slides, I mean what are the chances?

There is absolutely no excuse for this. Someone needs to be held accountable. I understand there are no lemon laws when it comes to RV's but this is the second most expensive purchase I have made in my entire life, and it is by far one of the worst performing to date. Shouldn't we expect more as consumers? I'm beginning to think that fixing something (standing behind your product is great) but when should we demand it works from the outset? What am my supposed to do? How can I trust a company who has failed me twice when rigs I spent half as much for didn't have nearly as many problems? (end rant).

So tomorrow morning I will call GD and start this process again, only this time we can't even budge the slide so I'm assuming they won't recommend I drive it with the slide out, so hopefully they will send someone to my house to fix the problem. I purchased it in Oct 2014 so it is still well within the warranty period. But seriously how much luck can one guy have?

Most of you will most likely chime in GD will get this fixed for you, just hang in there but at this point I'm almost to the mindset of asking my dealer how much he will give me for it in a trade and going in a different direction. I know I'll lose a lot of money in the deal but I just can't be left with continual major issues like this after my warranty is up in Oct 2015, also I really can't keep worrying about cancelling trips while my rig is in the shop for months at a time.

All of that said I will use this thread to update you all on my progress. My first trip is scheduled for April 4th so hopefully we can get it repaired by then or else I'll have to cancel. This time I will also do a better job of documenting each step (the who, when, what, where and how). So that others can see what steps are taken when someone is in my position. At least my rig is at my house, so I'm not getting charged while I wait for answers.

Hopefully this gets resolved ASAP. Enjoy the rest of your Sunday I'll do my best to provide an update after I talk to GD tomorrow afternoon.
 
Hang in there, droidguru. Try to keep in mind why you bought a GDRV in the first place. (I know that's easy for me to say.)

I see that you and I are using the same dealer.
I have found that it is better to talk directly to the Service Manager, Keith, after the service advisors write up your ticket. The advisors seem mainly interested in getting you out of their hair as soon as they can. The Shop Foreman, John, is also a good guy to talk to once you get it on site.
I had an appointment for some warranty work on March 10, but couldn't get my rig out of a snow bank in the storage lot.
I had no problem rescheduling it for March 26th.
The first time I took it in last summer, they gave me the same story about GDRV being slow and difficult to work with on warranty matters.
I have since come to believe they were just using that as a delaying tactic to cover their being overworked.

You can send me a PM if you want more.

K
 
Thanks K. I will print this out and take your advice, however right now unless GD gives me permission to drive it an hour and a half with the slide open I won't have to worry about any of this. I am hoping I can somehow get it repaired where it is sitting or at least get someone to come out and get the slide in so I can at least get it to the dealer. What ever happens we have two trips scheduled prior to Memorial Day and I don't have high hopes for either. Still I will try to remain optimistic. Thanks again for the advice. Happy Camping.
 
I agree. You're gonna have to try to get GD Customer Svc to authorize (in advance) having a mobile RV tech come out and at least get the slide retracted. Maybe they will have a recommended local person.
Good Luck!
K
 
Good day GD'ers,

You all may remember me as the guy who had a dining room (passenger side) slide-out extend on his very first trip but it wouldn't retract (it would not retract manually either). Stuck on the camp site on a weekend and no help in sight, it took six large men to inch the slide in as we all spent the next hour pushing, little by little until the slide was far enough in to make the long haul to the dealer. GD worked with my dealer to get the problem fixed relatively fast and just in time for my second trip which was a success. The problem a stripped actuator, I was told that these things happen from time to time. There is really nothing you can do it is an anomaly.

So to recap took delivery, went on our inaugural trip, slide-out extended when we arrived but would not retract when we left. It was also in the shop for two more months over the winter (panel replacement and tire bead leak).

After the second trip we winterized (took it to the shop for the above two other reference repairs) and through the remainder of the winter of 2014-2015 did not touch the rig.

Fast forward to today (3/15) I extended the slides to pack for our first trip of the season. After I completed packing I started bringing the slides in one by one. It didn't take long before I just started laughing out loud. When I get mad or frustrated I have different levels of disgust, laughing in this situation means I am at my wits end.

This time it was a different slide, the kitchen slide (driver side). Seems to be the same issue (extends fine, but won't retract).

Again lets recap. Number of camping trips = 2 (Number of broken slides = 2). I really can't believe it! I just looked at my wife and screamed you have got to be kidding me. There has got to be a design flaw with these slides, I mean what are the chances?

There is absolutely no excuse for this. Someone needs to be held accountable. I understand there are no lemon laws when it comes to RV's but this is the second most expensive purchase I have made in my entire life, and it is by far one of the worst performing to date. Shouldn't we expect more as consumers? I'm beginning to think that fixing something (standing behind your product is great) but when should we demand it works from the outset? What am my supposed to do? How can I trust a company who has failed me twice when rigs I spent half as much for didn't have nearly as many problems? (end rant).

So tomorrow morning I will call GD and start this process again, only this time we can't even budge the slide so I'm assuming they won't recommend I drive it with the slide out, so hopefully they will send someone to my house to fix the problem. I purchased it in Oct 2014 so it is still well within the warranty period. But seriously how much luck can one guy have?

Most of you will most likely chime in GD will get this fixed for you, just hang in there but at this point I'm almost to the mindset of asking my dealer how much he will give me for it in a trade and going in a different direction. I know I'll lose a lot of money in the deal but I just can't be left with continual major issues like this after my warranty is up in Oct 2015, also I really can't keep worrying about cancelling trips while my rig is in the shop for months at a time.

All of that said I will use this thread to update you all on my progress. My first trip is scheduled for April 4th so hopefully we can get it repaired by then or else I'll have to cancel. This time I will also do a better job of documenting each step (the who, when, what, where and how). So that others can see what steps are taken when someone is in my position. At least my rig is at my house, so I'm not getting charged while I wait for answers.

Hopefully this gets resolved ASAP. Enjoy the rest of your Sunday I'll do my best to provide an update after I talk to GD tomorrow afternoon.

Hi @droidguru,

Please add your 17-digit RV VIN to the "About Me" section of your forum profile. We will need this information in order to research your concerns. Thank you in advance...

Best regards,
~ Janice
 
Just an update on this. I am still in holding mode. I talked to Jerry at GD, he was very nice and assured me GD would try and make it right. GD did not have a recommendation for remote service so I called around to the five closest dealers and another two repair places. Four dealers said they couldn't help me, Keith at Beckley's never returned my call after the voice-mail I left. I suspect they can't help me either but with the amount of business I am bringing them you would expect a call back when you are told to expect one, but I digress. The other repair guys gave the same answer I am out of luck. Last time this happened we were able to hold the in button down and get four large guys to press hard on the slide and move it back in an inch at a time. Took about 20 mins all in all. This is the largest and heaviest slide however so we can't get it to budge. I will see if Beckley's returns my call tomorrow. If not it looks like I will be fixing this one on my own which I am not thrilled about. If I go that route I will do my best to post some pictures of the process so that others may some day profit from my absolute horrible experience. I know there are no RV lemon laws but I believe someone should be held accountable for my time and trouble. Be it GD or Lippert there really needs to be some accountability for failure of parts at this rate. Obviously this is a very poor design or assembly or perhaps someone just roughed it up prior to me taking delivery. Whatever the reason pardon the pun I am not a happy camper right now. Another update to follow shortly.
 
Hi droidguru,

You may have tried this, but I didn't see it specifically mentioned in you description of what's going on . . .
The slides have manual over ride procedures described in the Lippert Manual.
In this case specifically the following . . .

"The Lippert Electric slide comes with a manual override system. Locate the crank extension with pin outside of the chassis main rail underneath the unit on the end of the motor. This
is where the crank handle (standard fifth wheel landing gear crank handle or 3/4” socket and ratchet fits on to allow the manual extension/retraction of the room. Simply take the crank handle (through-frame models) or wrench, ratchet or drill with a nut driver (in-frame models) and rotate it clockwise to retract and counterclockwise to extend slide-out. It is important to note that you DO NOT need to attempt to disengage the motor as the actuator is “manual ready.” Just hook up and crank."

You should probably read this entire section of the manual for full details of what you are dealing with, but one important point is to completely disconnect all power (battery and shore power since the converter can produce 12V even with the battery disconnected) before attempting this.

Rob
 
Rob,

First and foremost thanks. I did try this with no luck. That leads me to believe the problem is the same as last time (stripped actuator). It does extend and also you can crank extend it manually as you described however no luck in the inward direction either automatically or with the process you listed above.

This leads me to another question, how come the actuator always seems to strip so the slide can't be retracted? You would think there is a 50/50 chance and I would much rather have it stuck in than out. In the current state I have no real options other than attempt a repair.

Good news is even though I have never had a major repair in any of my RV's, outside of this GD, I do have a tremendous amount of luck with car repairs. I have done all the regular maintenance on all of my vehicles for years from brakes, exhaust and radiator replacements. Hopefully this isn't a case of beer type of problem, I would be happy if we are in one weekend six pack territory.
 
Hi droidguru,

This situation raises my curiosity since we have similar rigs. My slides are going in and out but the kitchen slide mechanism is obviously working hard. Squealing and not moving smoothly. GD advised graphite based lubricant which I tried . . . no change. The howling seems to be coming from inside the frame rail which is covered by the belly pan.

The "stripped actuator" doesn't seem to make sense. If it were truly stripped, it should no be able to drive or resist in either direction. Is there any chance that the electric drive is powered up and trying to drive the slide out, while you are trying to manually drive it in ? . . . thus my thought about disconnect all power.

Looking at the "manual drive system" on the outside of the frame, I would be trying a LONG breaker bar on the pinion drive that is supposed to be able to move the rack.

Good luck !

Rob
 
I've attached slide drive info from LCI site. Look at page 2 of this link for the set-up on your kitchen slide...the location of the actuator may be different in your particular application... http://lci1.com/assets/content/support/complist/2x2 Electric Through Frame Slide-out Assemblies.pdf

The second link show the individual components... http://lci1.com/assets/content/support/complist/2x2 Electric Through Frame Slideout Components.pdf

As Rob mentioned...I'm not sure how the drive would be able only to extend and not retract either with the motor or hand crank. If the slide is fully extended and you can't retract, how do you know it still can extend...just trying to understand.

Dave
 
Again Rob and Dave thanks for your questions and input. The stripped actuator was what the dealer told me was the problem after the last repair so that is what I am going on. Honestly other then watching YouTube videos I have never cracked it open to see what was done.

About the how do you know it extends if it is fully extended? Great question, two ways one is when we were trying to force the slide in we did actually get it in about 1/4 inch. I again tried to press the in button with no luck. So I tried the out button and it moved the slide back out again until you hear that clunk clunk clunk sound. Then when you manually try to retract it does not retract the slide however if you then go and press the out button after a second or two the slide will move slightly outward (like someone is giving it a shove) then clunk clunk clunk which is my best impression of the sound you gear when fully extended. Hope that clarifies a bit.

Thanks for sending the links, a little light reading before turning in for the night.
 
Hi Dave,

This is starting to make some sense. Great component drawings !
The linear drive is the round tube which is separate from the spur (pinion) gears and racks on the underside of the load carrying square tubes. I just assumed that something inside the frame rails was driving these tooth racks. The manual drive alternative seems to be turning the spur gear shaft that is outboard of the frame rail. If the linear drive is resisting this (stripped/jammed/whatever), it should be fairly easy to disconnect it from the slide at its outer end. If it powers in and out when disconnected from the slide . . . something else is jammed.

Rob
 
From everything that you describe droidguru, it seems to point to the drive actuator. I don't have any idea what's inside the drive actuator in that it will only move in one direction...maybe jammed. The clunk, clunk, clunk is the clutch mechanism when the drive reaches full travel. The two gear racks and with gear pack and cross shaft is strictly to keep the slideroom square when extending/retracting.

The only other thing I can think of to try would be to remove the jam nuts on either side of the actuator where it attaches to the outer wall and see if the actuator will move in both directions when there's no load it. This would confirm whether the actuator is the problem. By disconnecting the actuator from the attachment bracket may also make it much easier to move by pushing from the outside...however it may be in the way of fully retracting the slide.

Dave
 
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Rob and Dave,

I have also had time to look over the diagrams and boy does that help a lot. I believe my first step will be to cut a hole in the underbelly where the motor is, I can the look and see what is going on there. In theory this should be the only access point necessary since I have access to both sides of the actuator. If after disconnecting the load I get the same result and I determine it is necessary to replace the actuator I should be able to disconnect the far end remove it through the hole and get a replacement from GD and reverse the process. So in theory this can all be done with the slide extended (although that will make it a little more difficult). Honestly this seems straight forward enough probably until I start the process any way.

I will probably give my father in law a call he is much more mechanically inclined than I am.

Thank you again.
 
As a side note I will also take all the measurements between the jam nuts etc, prior to removal so I can put the replacement in correctly.

Basically the short list:
Disconnect manual crank
Disconnect motor
Measure twice
Remove Jam Nuts
Remove mounting bolts
Profit

All in all I feel a lot better about this right now.
 
Droidguru...I have another reference for you...the slideout manual... http://lci1.com/assets/content/support/manuals/om-electric-slideout-web.pdf

Info on the full in/out adjustments are on page 11. I think that if you disconnect the actuator by removing the 2 outer lock nuts, you may be able to retract the actuator electrically or manually once there's no load. If it's out of the way/disconnected you may be able to push the room in with a help of a couple, big friends. Then you'd be able to get it to a dealer to resolve. If you'll able to push the slideroom in, you'd have to reconnect the actuator to keep it in place. A length or two of 2x4 cut the correct length to fit on top of the slideroom between the fascia and outside wall would also be a good 'just in case'.

Dave
 
Dave,

Thanks again you are the man. I talked to JD he is going to send out the entire assembly and a plastic strap so I can repair. With all of this documentation I should be able to put together a pretty good step by step with pictures for everyone.

Question, as I begin the process and start posting pictures of the repair is there anyway to allow (say you or any moderator) edit my posts in case I get some of the terminology wrong? I want to make this set of posts comprehensive enough for anyone here to use as a reference but I think if a couple mechanically inclined people chimed in we could make it extraordinary.
 
Question, as I begin the process and start posting pictures of the repair is there anyway to allow (say you or any moderator) edit my posts in case I get some of the terminology wrong? I want to make this set of posts comprehensive enough for anyone here to use as a reference but I think if a couple mechanically inclined people chimed in we could make it extraordinary.

I can certainly add whatever I can to your posts if required.

I believe that the actuator has to be removed from the interior side of the frame rail so everything on the threaded end has to be removed...you'll need to record their location. Expect that you'll still need to tweak the adjustment for full retract, full extend once the new actuator is installed to get it right. It shouldn't be too bad of a job to do...

Dave
 

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