2015 Grand Design 323BHS SlideOuts

I forgot to get some info (left tape measure at home during PDI) and have been searching for hours and cant seem to find it anywhere. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Im looking for extended slide dimensions. Lots of trees on our seasonal site and it will be a lot easier getting set up on Wednesday if I know how far out the slides extended exactly, or at least close. Would sure beat setting it up ,leveling, extending slides, finding out they dont fit the spot as its parked, retracting slides, moving RV, repeat as necessary approach.

323 BHS
 
I forgot to get some info (left tape measure at home during PDI) and have been searching for hours and cant seem to find it anywhere. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Im looking for extended slide dimensions. Lots of trees on our seasonal site and it will be a lot easier getting set up on Wednesday if I know how far out the slides extended exactly, or at least close. Would sure beat setting it up ,leveling, extending slides, finding out they dont fit the spot as its parked, retracting slides, moving RV, repeat as necessary approach.

323 BHS

I think it's just under 3', I'm sure 3' 6" of clearance would be enough.

Dave
 
I think that you'll find that the slides are different depths. For example on our 337, the headboard slide is 32" deep, the kitchen slide is 24" deep and the living room slide is 36" deep. I believe that there are standard depths that all manufacturers follow as LCI supplies most of the drive actuators which would be length specific.

Dave
 
Yes I can see the slides are different depths. The deeper ones on the 323 BHS are the single street side slide and the one in the bunk house. Then the kitchen slide which is slightly less and finally the front bedroom slide that houses the closets being the most shallow of them all, not sure if LCI provides the mechanical components for that one as everything is in the walls of the slide and has its own micro processor. Looks like I'm fortunate to have 3 different depths. The single street side slide is the one I'm most concerned with. I had to jockey my Springdale TT in there just so to get the awning to clear a massive oak tree where the back side of the awning came to inches in front of the tree. With the new RV there is no question that the street side slide will be affected at some point fore to aft, I just have to make sure it's set far enough away from the tree to get that slide all the way out.
 
Sound the Trumpets the Repair was a Success!!!

I wanted to take a moment to follow up on the slide issue that initiated this thread in the hopes of helping others who have a similar problem in the future. Now while I hope none of you ever have this issue if it does occur I personally believe if you are somewhat mechanically inclined and are able to lift 50 pounds you can handle this repair. The 50 pound is because the actuator assembly is heavy and needs to be held in place in a rather awkward position, lets just say my core got a workout.

A quick summary:

Purchased GD BHS323 in Oct 2014, since that date I have had two slides fully open with no issues but neither was able to retract. These two slides were the two largest and the first was repaired by the dealer who relayed to me that the “actuator was stripped”. That leads to current situation where my rig now sits on my property slide fully extended and unable to get it retracted to transport it to the dealer.

Enter Grand Design Customer Service:

Grand Design’s customer service was unmatched when it came to this issue. Jerry and JD handled this professionally and courteously. They first authorized an on-site repair. I tried five different dealerships and three independent repair shops and none of these would come to my property to do the repair. I basically was reserved to attempting this repair on my own. GD via over-night shipping sent me the entire actuator assembly. This was huge, I had no desire to dissect the actuator and figure out what needed to be replaced. I wanted to remove the old one and pop this one in. Thank you GD for stepping up and making this happen.

Here is how the rest played out:

I cut a small one foot by one foot hole approximately one foot inside the side where the manual crank hole is located (this is the same side as the actuator and the opposite side of the slide). When you do this only cut three sides of the hole leaving the fourth side intact closest to the manual crank hole.

I located the actuator and followed the following instructions:

1. Disconnect manual crank shaft from end of motor assembly. Simply remove the cotter pin and then remove the extension from the actuator motor assembly.
2. Disconnect motor wires from source.
3. Take measurements, I wanted to try to position the new actuator in the exact same extended positon so I measured between each lock nut and the stop can, etc.
4. Remove all jam nuts (lock nut at the end and two jam nuts) and stop can from threaded shaft on actuator (these are clearly seen from looking under the slide and are all external to the underbelly. Since the actuator was fully extended and could not be retracted even with no weight attached this was a little more difficult than it should have been. I needed to complete step 5 below and place the manual crank shaft knob in the manual crank shaft hole to give me just enough room to remove the bolts and the stop can from the welded holder on the slide side.
5. Take note of mounting bolt locations and remove mounting bolts (easy since the black paint was worn away from the washers.
6. After everything is disconnected, slide actuator out of frame. Hardest part by far, since it was fully extended I had to cut the hole a little bigger and slide the extended screw end (slide side) slightly above the hole which it sits in so I could get the motor out of the hole then remove the entire
7. To replace with new actuator, follow previous directions in reverse.

A couple of notes:

It is a jungle down there. I believe others used the term "rats nest" that is exactly correct there are electrical wires everywhere. Cut with caution.

Make sure you test the actuator prior to locking everything into place.

Take time to electrical tape the wire nuts so they don’t loosen during transport.

Make sure you attach the manual crank prior to patching up the hole.

Use flex mend on the bottom for a professional looking finish.

Pictures (it only let me post 5, choosing was hard!)
From left to right:
1. Bracket for Actuator Motor (only two bolts).
2. Cotter Pin and Extension for Manual Crank.
3. Actuator Assembly Attached.
4. A picture of actuator before removal.
5. My measurement of lock nuts and stop can on slide end.
 

Attachments

  • 20150405_082112.jpg
    20150405_082112.jpg
    101.1 KB · Views: 78
  • 20150405_081250.jpg
    20150405_081250.jpg
    96.2 KB · Views: 76
  • 20150405_081349.jpg
    20150405_081349.jpg
    96.1 KB · Views: 75
  • 20150405_084511.jpg
    20150405_084511.jpg
    83.6 KB · Views: 77
  • 20150405_082255.jpg
    20150405_082255.jpg
    94.8 KB · Views: 86
Did that fix your slide? I am having the same issue with a 1 month old unit.
 
Did that fix your slide? I am having the same issue with a 1 month old unit.

Welcome to the forum but sorry to hear of your slide issue. I'd suggest that you should start with a call to GD Customer Service at 574 825 9679 to discuss what things you can try to further analyze your problem and give you some options to get it corrected.

Dave
 

New posts

Try RV LIFE Pro Free for 7 Days

  • New Ad-Free experience on this RV LIFE Community.
  • Plan the best RV Safe travel with RV LIFE Trip Wizard.
  • Navigate with our RV Safe GPS mobile app.
  • and much more...
Try RV LIFE Pro Today
Back
Top Bottom