2024 22MLE first shakedown trip rants and raves

I don’t see the “grenade” in your comment. I think you’re correct as long as you don’t mind buying tires more often than necessary. Physics will tell you that there’s a relationship between the load on the tire and inflation. I believe that is what the Goodyear chart of tire pressure vs weight does. Goodyear has done the work for you and probably more accurately than any of can do on our own. But nothing is preventing anyone from determining this empirically for themselves.

Having said that, it’s up to each person to inflate the tires on their trailer as they see fit. I don’t see a safety issue with over-inflating tires, so long as you don’t exceed the maximum and you check the tread wear regularly. If you do those things, the worst that should happen is you wear the center treads out prematurely…like the guy that owned my trailer before me.

My comments and observations are offered only to explain what I am doing and the logic I used to make my decision. If anyone thinks I’m wrong they are free to both ignore my advice and if they’re inclined, point out the fault(s) in my logic. However, saying Grand Design cites Goodyear’s max inflation as a counter argument misses the point that max inflation isn’t necessarily the correct inflation; hence, the Goodyear chart.

I cannot remember the last time anyone posted about needing trailer tires because the tread was worn out. They almost always age out or blowout long before the tread is gone.

And it is true that in the case of a blowout on a 2 axle trailer, that the remaing tire on that side is instantly overloaded... So max inflation may save you from having to buy 2 tires in the event you have a blowout. A quality tire will not wear out the center of the tread from over inflation....But most ST tires are not quality.
 
As far as the EasyTouch thermostat.....Have not installed that yet, but you order depending on what AC that you have.
I had to order for Furrion, but if you go to their website, I'm sure that they have one for GE, Dometic, etc.
 
As I understand it, a thermostat for home uses 24 vAC to power it. We don't have that in our rigs so you need to have a 12 vDC thermostat. I am not so sure it matters which AC unit is on roof. One thing that does matter is where the temperature is sensor is located. On some, its located on the AC unit.

As far as the EasyTouch thermostat.....Have not installed that yet, but you order depending on what AC that you have.
I had to order for Furrion, but if you go to their website, I'm sure that they have one for GE, Dometic, etc.
 
And...I have thought about taking that door off.....and, how hard would it be to move the panel to the outside on the side of the cabinet?

From what I can see it is very easy. I removed the panel and it’s just a small hole drilled behind it for the wires to pass through. Plenty of extra wiring. Remove the 4 screws holding the panel on, disconnect the wiring. Drill a hole in the side of the cabinet big enough for the wiring, reconnect the wiring to panel and screws the panel to the side of cabinet. Less than a 10 minute job with a screw driver and drill.
 
Great! If it's only surface mounted, should be very easy....thanks for the info! Definitely will be checking that out.....and then look for a new stereo replacement.
 
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From what I can see it is very easy. I removed the panel and it’s just a small hole drilled behind it for the wires to pass through. Plenty of extra wiring. Remove the 4 screws holding the panel on, disconnect the wiring. Drill a hole in the side of the cabinet big enough for the wiring, reconnect the wiring to panel and screws the panel to the side of cabinet. Less than a 10 minute job with a screw driver and drill.

You say from what you see but do you know anyone who did this? It would be nice to know if it was as easy as this sounds of if they had any glitches come up.
 
Great! If it's only surface mounted, should be very easy....thanks for the info! Definitely will be checking that out.....and then look for a new stereo replacement.

Hey if you do it, can you post up your findings, any issues you encountered and post pictures? We may want to do this as well if we do end up buying this TT. Haven't made the leap yet but getting close.
 
You say from what you see but do you know anyone who did this? It would be nice to know if it was as easy as this sounds of if they had any glitches come up.

I removed the panel to see what it would take and did everything but drill the hole as I didn’t have a drill bit with me. There is no reason it won’t work. I also plan on removing the piece on the cabinet front inside the cabinet door to make it usable space. I have a piece of panelling to box it in and cover the wiring in there. Didn’t have time to get to it and trailer is in storage now so it will have to wait until spring. I will post pics when done.
 
I removed the panel to see what it would take and did everything but drill the hole as I didn’t have a drill bit with me. There is no reason it won’t work. I also plan on removing the piece on the cabinet front inside the cabinet door to make it usable space. I have a piece of panelling to box it in and cover the wiring in there. Didn’t have time to get to it and trailer is in storage now so it will have to wait until spring. I will post pics when done.

Sounds like a plan! I always look a a potential project and think "what's the worst that can happen?" Lol, everything is fixable, I was once told.....
 
IMG_3002.jpg
Hey if you do it, can you post up your findings, any issues you encountered and post pictures? We may want to do this as well if we do end up buying this TT. Haven't made the leap yet but getting close.

Moved the control panel today.....pretty easy as I suspected.IMG_2997.jpgIMG_3005.jpgIMG_3007.jpg
 
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Looks perfect. Easy peazy �� Is that the stereo above the old panel mount? 2024s don’t have that.
 
Looks perfect. Easy peazy �� Is that the stereo above the old panel mount? 2024s don’t have that.
Yes, that is the POS above. So now that will come out and give me plenty of room to put in a real unit, probably a Jensen, Pioneer, something.....about anything will be better than what's there now....and replace the speakers as well.
About the hardest part was cleaning up the sawdust and a little mess. Tied some of the wiring together with ties, as a lot of them were just loose and dangling. Might be able to then run the TV though the speakers with another unit, although I did add a sound bar, which helps some.
 
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Update.....stereo replacement. So, I moved the control panel to the side of the cabinet. I removed the Furrion stereo.
I made a pocket shelf to go where the stereo was, and purchased a Pyle stereo. The wiring from GD was a mess, as the speaker leads were mis-labeled. I wired up the Pyle, but could only get one of the four speakers to work (on speaker B outside). There was a little sound coming out of the speakers 'A', but barely audible. I tried everything, even by-passing the GD wire harness, and hooked it up directly to the Pyle, but still no sound. So, I determined that it was defective and will be retuning it. It the meantime I ordered a Jensen, we had a Jensen TV in the Hemisphere and it worked for nine years, so what the hell. The Pyle stereo was larger and would have covered the hole and space, but the Jensen is a little smaller. So I had to make a cover plate to cover the remains space. Maybe not a bad thing as it gives me access if I need to.....The Jensen does not have a HDMI out that the Pyle had but I've got a blu-ray player going into one of the TV HDMI inputs. So the Jensen with be for CD music. The Jensen has component video out-put and RCA analog sound in-put. The TV has only an 'optical' sound out-put, so I got a optical to analog converter and it goes into the Jensen. It is powered with a USB which is plugged into the TV. I now have sound coming through the ceiling speakers, which I also replaced with Kenwood 6.5" speakers. I've maxed out all the hook-ups on the TV now...lol. A HDMI for the blu-ray, a HDMI for the Wally satellite, and the HDMI ARC for the sound bar. The optical sound to the Jensen, and the USB power for the converter.
I have to say that the sound is amazing when you have the sound running through the stereo coupled with the sound bar.
A thousand times improvement! It could only be better if I were to add a sub woofer I suppose, but not sure it's necessary.
I can't believe that GD (I'm sure other mfg.s following suit) have eliminated the stereo and speakers. I deal breaker for me. I guess I'm old school though..... At least make it an option. I spent $170 for the Jensen, and $30 for the Kenwoods.
Anyway, a few pics for what it's worth......IMG_3010.jpgIMG_3016.jpgIMG_3016.jpgIMG_3020.jpgIMG_3021.jpgIMG_3021.jpg
IMG_3019.jpg
 
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