2400BH Flat Leaf Springs

Mattoest

Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2020
Posts
18
After purchasing a 2400BH a little over a year ago and pulling it about 6,000 miles last year, I have started preparing for some suspension upgrades. I will upgrade to the 225/75R15 Goodyear Endurance E-rated tires, add the Morryde CRE3000, add the Morryde X-factor crossmember and (I thought) sumo springs. I got under the trailer today to check measurements on the sumo springs and they barely fit in place with NO mounting bracket! My leaf springs are almost flat and a couple are starting to have a hint of a W. I only attached one picture, but all four look pretty similar to this one. I have the 3500# 3" Dexter 4440558 axles, so these should be 1750# springs. I travel very close to the maximum GVWR, so I usually have ~6,800 pounds on these, but they are not overloaded and I didn't have any harsh terrain last year, so I'm not sure why these springs have gone so fast. I'm thinking of moving to a 2,000# rated spring. Any thoughts on that? (I realize my GVWR and axles ratings will remain the same, but I'm really concerned about how quickly these got so flat.) Also, because they are so flat, it's hard to get a good measurement. Anyone with a 2400BH sympathetic enough to measure theirs? Also, any worries about reusing the u-bolts, nuts and plates if I change out these springs?

Thanks.
 

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I can't help you with your issue but I have read on here some members experiencing flat springs due to inferior made in China products being used. These were corrected by going to your local truck and trailer shop to get new leafs at the same rating but superior build. They will also have or make the ubolts you need. For the small extra cost, I'd replace them. Some say that anything that got torqued down shouldn't be reused. Wheels being the exception I guess.

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As [MENTION=29980]Ynot4me2[/MENTION] said, this is not all that uncommon for the OEM leaf springs. I would recommend not going more than a few hundred pounds above the original rating, though. Replacement springs with higher quality steel with be fine and not subject the coach to the extra stresses of being over-sprung and too stiff.

Rob
 
... My leaf springs are almost flat and a couple are starting to have a hint of a W. I only attached one picture, but all four look pretty similar to this one....

Forgive the newbie question, but what should I be looking for on my 2021, 22MLE with the same miles on her? Although I kind of see the "W" but could that be caused due to the rig not sitting on level ground? From my untrained eye, I do not see anything wrong, but obviously there is.
 
Are you saying you don't see anything wrong with the OP's photo? If that's it, then those springs should have a definite arch to them, instead of being flat like they are.
 
Forgive the newbie question, but what should I be looking for on my 2021, 22MLE with the same miles on her? Although I kind of see the "W" but could that be caused due to the rig not sitting on level ground? From my untrained eye, I do not see anything wrong, but obviously there is.
Post a pic and we will help you determine if they're flat or not. In the OP pic, you can really tell that they are flat (straight).

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After purchasing a 2400BH a little over a year ago and pulling it about 6,000 miles last year, I have started preparing for some suspension upgrades. I will upgrade to the 225/75R15 Goodyear Endurance E-rated tires, add the Morryde CRE3000, add the Morryde X-factor crossmember and (I thought) sumo springs. I got under the trailer today to check measurements on the sumo springs and they barely fit in place with NO mounting bracket! My leaf springs are almost flat and a couple are starting to have a hint of a W. I only attached one picture, but all four look pretty similar to this one. I have the 3500# 3" Dexter 4440558 axles, so these should be 1750# springs. I travel very close to the maximum GVWR, so I usually have ~6,800 pounds on these, but they are not overloaded and I didn't have any harsh terrain last year, so I'm not sure why these springs have gone so fast. I'm thinking of moving to a 2,000# rated spring. Any thoughts on that? (I realize my GVWR and axles ratings will remain the same, but I'm really concerned about how quickly these got so flat.) Also, because they are so flat, it's hard to get a good measurement. Anyone with a 2400BH sympathetic enough to measure theirs? Also, any worries about reusing the u-bolts, nuts and plates if I change out these springs?

Thanks.

Do you have tire rub under the wheel wells? I had a 2018 2800bh with similar leaf spring issues and that caused the tire to hit the wheel well on occasion. Wore the wheel well down to the flooring.
 
No. Surprisingly, there is still 2.5 inches clearance. My trailerr has a thin metal liner above the wheels and there is no indication of contact.
 
The minimum is 3" according to Dexter's manual.
 
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Also said:
ALWAYS install new hardware when installing new leaf springs - new u-bolts, new lock nuts, new washers, etc.
I also recommend installing new metal bushings and using plenty of suspension grease on the rubbers.
Non-metal bushings should never be used in a suspension system
 
Roadmaster kits are not cheap. I had the slipper spring kit and the shock kit installed by a local frame shop. The cost for the 7000 lb. axle kit and shock kit was $1525.00. Labor was $1600.00. Some of the reviews I read stated that they installed the kits themselves. I am sure they were submitted by younger guys.
More info at Trailer Life: https://www.roadmasterinc.com/pdf/trailer_life_july_2018.pdf
 
Can you provide links to where you purchased the leafs, u bolts, brackets, suspension equalizer, sumo springs etc. and which part numbers they are? I’m about to close on a deal with a 2021 2400BH and am looking to do the same improvements. Thanks!
 
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Etrailer.com for bolts and springs: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer_Leaf_Spring_Suspension/Redline/SP01-060.html. https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer_Leaf_Spring_Suspension/Universal_Group/SP-220275.html. Sumo springs, xfactor, wet bolt and equalizer from Amazon. MORryde UO21-003 X Factor Performance Crossmembers - SRE, CRE, Stock and Other Equalizers , Black https://a.co/d/ckvKLOw. TSS-107-40 | Trailer SumoSprings for Trailer Axle, GAWR: 3000-5000 (Spring-Over Axle Configuration) | Left/Right Pair | 1400 (lb) Capacity at 50% Compression | Made in the USA https://a.co/d/2HKLmQD. MORryde UO12-016 Heavy Duty Shackle Upgrade Kit, CRE3000 / Stock / Equaflex 2.25" Shackles - Tandem Axle https://a.co/d/9v1TROB. MORryde CRE2-35 CRE3000 Suspension System, Tandem Axle - 35-Inch Wheel Base https://a.co/d/7Ls0EcK
 
Thank you so much for taking the time to respond. I needed up getting ahead of you and did some upgrades myself, largely imitating what you did. I did the same springs, used the lippert road armor equalizer, and replaced u-bolts with e-trailer replacements. I intend to weld reinforcing tabs on the spring and equalizer hangers and will determine if the sumo springs are necessary later.
 
If I had welding tools and skill I'd make that change too. I don't think I really need the sumo springs, but I bought those first (trying to fit them is how I learned how bad my leaf springs were), and I was past the return window, so I went ahead with them anyway. I took it from Chicago to Montreal and back last month and it handled well and did not have any indication of being oversprung. Good luck with the mods and the camping.
 
Thank you for posting this, even two years later your experience is still helpful. I’m getting ready to do this upgrade on our 2021 2400BH do you remember how you jacked up the camper, one side at a time or lifting the whole thing at once? What Jack points did you use?
 
I raised one side at a time using a bottle jack on top of a stack of 2x10 scrap under the centerpoint of the frame, with a couple 12 in. 2x4s nailed together and a 1 in. hole bored into the middle on top of the jack to help distribute the load a little along the frame. I store the trailer on a slight incline of a couple degrees, so I chose to assemble two cribbing block stacks, with a slightly angled bottom and nailed together for the down-slope end and a couple jack stands on 2x10 scrap for for the up-slope ends. I put the cribbing under the drop frame about a foot from the inside end and the jack stands about five feet from the rear end. The tires only cleared by about an inch when I had it up. Once I had both sides up, I did just one side at a time (at no point did I have an axle fully removed). I used a floor jack with a wooden saddle I fashioned to follow the curve of the axle and another jack stand to support the axles on a side as I replaced the springs and hardware. One tip that saved me a lot of trouble was to have a ball joint press to remove the old bolts.
 

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