337RLS Bedroom TV Maximum size???

MichiganMarty

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2010
Posts
154
Location
S.E. Michigan
I really have three questions:

1. How much TV weight can the bedroom location support?

2. The sticker indicating the location for the steel plate is off center from the bedroom drawer unit. Is the plate really off center? Or is the sticker just a "It is around here" type of thing???

3. While mounting the TV bracket, do you merely use sheet metal screws?

Okay, I have a 4th question! :eek:
4. Does anyone have recommendations on which TV bracket to purchase?
 
Not sure on the maximum weight but I used a magnet to determine the location and size of the
plate. I used #10 sheet metal screws no longer than 1 1/4" long as recommended by others.
Predrilled before I installed. Inexpensive bracket from Walmart, works great for our 28" tv.
 
Please let us know how you do with your install as I am looking to put a TV in our 337 also
 
Ditto - use magnet to locate bracket, sheet metal screws, and tv is centered above dresser ( ours is 2014 with tall dresser next to window). Tv bracket from monoprice.com, very inexpensive and year and a half later, no problems.
 
Ditto - use magnet to locate bracket, sheet metal screws, and tv is centered above dresser ( ours is 2014 with tall dresser next to window). Tv bracket from monoprice.com, very inexpensive and year and a half later, no problems.

Scott or Jan,
What style of wall mount did you use? Is it a tilt, or full motion? Full motion would be nice, but I don't know about securing it during travel.
 
Allowing room for the electrical connections, there's about 25" of vertical space from the top of our dresser (mid 14 337RLS). Depending on the TV's enclosure, that's about a 35" diagonal screen.

I used a cheap WalMart mount. The bracket screwed to the TV slides down into the wall bracket, so you have to allow a couple of inches to get the TV above the bracket.


Sent from my XT1058 using Tapatalk
 
Jeff & Lee, we used a swivel mount in bedroom, no need for a full motion there as it is right in front of bed, and no securing necessary. We did install a full motion mount in basement (from monoprice as well) works great. I do secure that one with a bungee cord stretched between two eye hooks screwed into floor of basement and underside of bedroom floor. I also made a wood panel covered in foam that attaches to tv with bungee straps to protect from anything that might move in basement (so far nothing has). Tv in bedroom is 27", basement is 32".
 
Oops, I forgot I had this thread going. I started another thread, but I will repeat the post here:

I spent a lot of time reading on this forum and I felt confident when I began mounting our TV in the bedroom. I used an earth magnet and found a large albeit poorly magnetic space above the dresser.

I carefully laid out all the holes and after trying 5 screws, and stripped all the holes out with extremely low effort on a manual screw driver. The so called metal plate isn't heavy enough to support anything.
The mounting area is useless. I believe the metal to not be more than 0.010" thick.

It would have been nice to not have to set up the TV everytime, but now it seems we have to do exactly that, AND see the ugly holes in the paneling of our bedroom.

Has anyone else had this experience?
 
I used this
http://www.morryde.com/products/64-...ll-mount?return=/product-category/1-tv-mounts

Rated for 50 lbs although the TV doesnt weigh anywhere near that. The hardware it came with has 8 1/4x1 lag bolts which is what I used to go into the metal plate. First used magnet to locate limits of plate then I pre drilled just big enough to get the head of the lag bolts started and it was a bit of work with a ratchet to get them all the way in. As soon as they were snugged up I went about 1/8 turn more. I can hang my 175 lbs of weight from it and its going nowhere. No stripping in the least. If you use the self tappers or pre drill the hole to big it will strip out.
The TV I mounted is I believe a 29 or 30 inch and mounted as far toward the rear as possible and up as high as possible, actually inverted the mount so the pivot on the wall is toward the rear and the pin is on top. The idea was to go as big as I could and not block the window. When The TV is pulled out on the mount and poistioned where I want it I find is suspendedabout 3/4 f the way down the bed and close to the ceiling and angled down. I live for large screens and find its quite ample, couldn't really imagine going any bigger.

Ill snap a couple of pictures next time Im down at the camp resort.
 
Justin,
I understand exactly what it takes to make a lag screw work. Bear in mind I am not taking offense! :) I just want to clarify the issue I am dealing with.

I carefully measured (with a micrometer) the tip of the self drilling screws provided and chose a drill bit that was approximately 0.015" smaller than the screws' drill point. I also used a ratchet to carefully "thread" the screws in, and each felt like it was screwing into some super light and soft 26 gauge aluminum sheet metal. There was hardly any resistance. I cannot possibly hang my weight off the mount and am not about to try for fear of ripping the wall apart. I am n-o-t a newbie to camping or campers and have been wrenching my entire life. This is NOT something I did wrong... the steel sheet metal is just too thin.

Now we have several holes in the bedroom wall that I have to look at every time we set up camp or tear it down. It sickens me... We have a beautiful camper with holes in the wall.
 
No offense taken Marty.
I was simply pointing out my choice was to not use the self tapping screws that evidently you did. There are no drill points on lag screws or sheet metal screws, only self tappers have that attribute. My problem with self tapping screws is getting precisely the result that you described as the depth of the threads is minimal and the tapping head clears away metal instead of compacting it for a greater grab within the material. A half revolution too much with a self tapper and the hole is stripped. The holes I drilled were with a 1/8 drill bit, half the size of the screw when measure with a micrometer 0.125. The result is the lag screw with deeper threads going into a hole where it will barely start compressed the metal at the point of contact and created a very good grab. Like I said, I can swing from that puppy! Also I used no power tools other than the drill to make the pilot holes and marked the bit with tape to prevent going too deep.

One must keep in mind this is a sheet metal backer, not plate steel in there that would require drilling and tapping with machine screws.




Examples of the two screws and you can see what Im talking about. Both 1/4 x 1 and both included in the kit. self tapper on the left, lag bolt on the right.


contentonly.jpgC6045-1000_1.jpg


On a side note you may wish to try my approach. No offense but no one else posting in this thread has stripped out holes.....


As noted by another member #10 sheet metal screw

41YBSK4u+-L._SX342_.jpg
 
We have a light weight Samsung LCD 32" Tv that we simply set on the dresser in front of the window, we just stow it under the bed wrapped in a blanket when traveling, works great and no holes in the wall to worry about!
 

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